peteski

Thanks for the info on your photo setup - very handy info (and you do seem to have some professional equipment at your disposal).

Sorry, it was not my intention to point out errors - I was simply curious about what I noticed. While Fiber Optic Lightning is handy, have you considered LEDs? There are lots of very small sizes available and they are quite affordable. You can even buy them prewired on eBay. If you look on eBay for example for "0603 prewired warm white led" you should find some good deals. LED wlll likely be brighter than the fiber optics, and the wires are much easier to hide (like glue them down the lamp post). I use LEDs almost exclusively in my models.

The model is gorgeous, and yes the photos look like they are taken by a professional. Admit it, you are professional photographer? I would love to see your photo setup - any chance of you posting some photos of it? The other question I have is why you masked the entire body with Tamiya tape? That to me seems unnecessary. I usually use the tape just in the areas where I need the paint demarcation, and cover the larger areas with some other material.

Well, the difference is 25-22.5=2.5 That is a vague question. What are you specifically looking for? Model in 1:25 scale is smaller than one in 1:22.5 scale. 1:22.5 scale sounds a bit unusual. More like one of the scale used for garden model railroads ( "G" gauge ), not model automobiles.

Your room temperature and humidity is ideal fr painting (it actually seems a bit dry, but that would be ok). I suspect that by "won't dry" you mean that the paints are tacky to the touch (not still in liquid form on the model surface). What brand/type/color of paints? Have you used successfully them in the past, or is this first time you are trying them? Are they maybe fresh bottles or cans of paint? Sounds like you have no problem with primer drying, correct? Maybe you started using new brand of primer, or the paints don't dry even over bare plastic?

Thanks for the explanation Jim. I know that some 3D printing setups come with software that automatically generates supports for the 3D object being printed. Have you ever tried that feature? I also realize that there is a lot of experimentation required. It is not exact science. BTW, did you check that "Why 3D prints fail" video I posted while ago? I thought it was very informative (even for an armchair 3D guy like me)..

These are very artistic photos, but with all the working lights I'm wondering why the streetlight is not illuminated? I'm also curious as to what is the loop of what seems like fishing line on the roof of the trolley?

I don't have a printer but I'm still trying to learn things. I'm curious why you need so many supports on the outside of the rear part of the body? If those are really needed, couldn't they be placed on the inside? Also, like you mentioned, the support under the front fender did not do their job, but the horizontal part of the fender still partially printed. Are *ALL* those supports really needed?

I have a feeling that this is all covered in the thread Roger pointed to. Plus a lot more. This type of question comes up here fairly regularly, and that is why that thread was made "sticky".

While it is nice to know the sources of kits and supplies used in some build, keep in mind that in many cases kits, and even supplies (like paints, photo-etched items, or other things) can be long out of production and discontinued. Many modelers have very old kits and supplies in their stash.

I would be leery of using solvent-based (stinky) contact cement. The solvent in it can warp plastic (especially if it is a thin piece). Sometimes the warping will not show up right away, but after weeks or even months. There is a water-based contact cement (I think it is Borden brand). That should be safe to use.

I'm not a military aircraft buff, but looking at this photo, the B52's moniker "BUFF" suits this plane much better. At least the G-rated version: Big Ugly Fat Fellow.

Yes Dave, I only have a credit card and a bank account (dedicated just to PayPal) tied to my PayPal account. That way I can receive money from PayPal, or pay using my bank account or credit card. Unless I sent many as Friends and Family transfer, I pay using the credit card. That way I'm double protected (I can dispute a charge through PayPal or credit card). Mike, after you explained I would seriously recommend to contact your bank about that $1.45 charge. As others have said, if someone got a hold of your account info and withdrew small amount, they can just as easily empty that account.

Maybe the Cadillac moniker can be protected as a car name, but I don't think the word can be trademarked. There are geographical locations with that name (like the city of Cadillac, Michigan, Cadillac Mountain in Maine, and likely others). It is likely perfectly ok to use it for a sewing machine company name. I found another unrelated Cadillac company: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=5281

Mike, this doesn't sound very clear. If this was a "real" PayPal transaction, you can login into your PayPal account, and check that transaction. It should give you more details why a dollar seventy five was withdrawn from your bank account. This is all assuming that you have that bank account tied the "real" PayPal. Or are you saying that scammer pretending to be PayPal withdrew that small amount of money from your bank account? When I sometimes pre-order or reserve some model from an online merchant using PayPal, that merchant withdraws a small amount of money from PayPal, then when the item is shipped, they charge the remainder of the price from PayPal.

Yes, it is 14 AWG solid copper wire. This site should be helpful to you (and others using metric system): https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/wire-gauge-chart.html

Is is possible that there were actually 10 of them coming in for a landing, instead of one circling 10 times?

I wonder which came first: the automobile, or the sewing machine?

I love strawberries, and all we currently have here in the northeast USA is really crappy sour ones in small containers (with few rotting ones in each container). I hate you!

I think that fears of gasoline powered vehicles totally disappearing is greatly exaggerated (for at least 20 or more years). Just like other fallacies or conspiracies which cannot be discussed here.

This is not a new scam. I get "cancel order" or "locked account" spams supposedly from PayPal, amazon, and many other companies where I don't even have accounts. Just like with all other scams check the actual email address they come from. Surprisingly I have been receiving very few spam or scam emails recently.

My 2019 Kia Soul gets 32-36 MPG (and I have heavy foot), so I can deal with the high gas prices, but buying heating oil will hurt. The other problem is that sinice gasoline prices are tied to everything, we will see prices of everything head up. But I will enjoy having to deal with fewer SUVs and leisure trucks on the roads (just like it happened during the last time gas prices were around $4/gal.)

Wow! This reminds me of Paul H. mastering his '77 T-bird. Amazing what some people (like you) can do with just photos and some plastic sheets and shapes. I barely put together plastic model kits and you make your own! That is one classy looking car -- they don't make cars like that anymore. Quintessential American car from the '70s. These type of cars were what I first saw when I arrived in this country (from Poland). Being around puny Eastern Bloc cars (with an occasional BMW or Mercedes), cars like this Lincoln screamed "American opulence" (as a good thing). Bug country, big cars! These cars were big and sleek, and they floated on the road. Maybe the handling was not the best, but they sure were comfortable and luxurious. They floated above the pavement, and you could spin the steering wheel with one finger. Those days are long gone. I'm still holding onto a little piece of those days with my 1985 Caddy Eldorado. It still has soft and comfy leather seats, and pretty smooth ride, but not quite the same as that Lincoln. Speaking of the Caddy, I hope that someday someone like you will make a 1:24/25 scale model of '79-'85 Eldorado.

Does the black paint layer on the front bumper look like it cracked and shrink a bit, exposing the lighter colored paint under it?

I had masking tape's adhesive (not just Tamiya) imprint in a surface of a clear coat. I don't think it has anything to do with the chemistry -- it is that the clear is not fully dried or hardened, so the tape just makes an impression on the surface. I suspect that if you were to push the edge of your fingernail into the paint, it would also leave a depression. To avoid this from happening I try to make sure the paint is fully hardened or dry, and I remove the tape as quickly after painting as possible.