peteski

I have a larger version of that tool made by Olfa for scoring acrylic. The blade itself has asimilar shape but it is larger and double ended. I'm also surprised how a blade made of hard steel got dull while being used on soft plastic. I thought it would remain sharp for a very long time and possibly only need replacement if the blade broke

LOL! If someone was keeping score, it seems that you're now the one with the last word. Funny how things work out.

I'm not familiar with the glue name you mentioned but as others mentioned, for cast polyurethane or 3D printed resin models CA glue (super-glue) or epoxy should work. Make sure that the parts you are trying to glue are very clean (free or mold release agent or other contamination).

That makes sense.

So it must be pressurized inside the frame, correct?

Congratulations Topher! I'm curious as to the origins of the name Rabell.

Ok, I'll bite. Why nitrogen and how exactly it would indicate a frame crack? It is not like nitrogen is a liquid die which would seep out of the crack. It is a gas. Or was the gas pressurized in the airtight frame and they would check if the pressure dropped after a race? The ambient air is 78% nitrogen. Why not just use plain atmospheric air?

Well Future itself (or whatever its current name is) is a glossy Acrylic Finish (not polish as Bill mentioned), so yes, ammonia will likely affect any of the other water-based acrylic paints modelers seem to be using more and more. It should not harm any old-school organic solvent based "stinky" lacquers or enamels.

Bill, my exact statement was "To me sanding the a smooth primer coat is a waste of time. " I guess you missed the "to me" part. I have models which won awards at the shows with the paint applied over bare plastic (no primer at all) or unsanded primer. I'm happy with them. Like I said "to me". Are they flawless? No way, but they make me (and show judges) happy. For example my 1:43 289 Cobra painted with unsanded Tamiya Fine White primer, nail polish (and white paint for stripes) and Testors Wet Look Clear looks pretty darn good. If your model painting technique requires sanding the primer, have at it! And I believe the manufacturers recommend sanding the primer to take down any schmutz or other tiny imperfection, not specifically to improve the paint adhesion. You know opinions are like you know what - everybody has one.

2-part epoxy adhesive hardens (polymerizes) due to a chemical reaction between part A and B, regardless of whether it sits on a non-porous surface or gets partially absorbed into the cardboard. For mixing epoxy I use a small piece of plastic with masking tape placed on top. Masking tape surface good for mixing epoxy and I can easily remove discard and replace the masking when the remains of the glue harden.

As I understand primer is a special coating designed to adhere well to bare plastic or metal surface, and also provide a suitable surface for the top coat of paint to adhere to it. Primer already has a satin surface finish perfect for maximum adhesion of the top coat. Another function of the primer/filler is to even out any imperfections in the painted surface and also provide uniform color for the top coat. No sanding should be required to further improve top coat adhesion, but if there are imperfections in the primed surface additional sanding will remove those imperfections. To me sanding the a smooth primer coat is a waste of time.

No Bob, I'm not using those sliced like a donut. Those backer rods come in fairly small diameters. I cut a length of a backer rod and stuff around the inner perimeter of the tire. It fills it up nicely and probably easier to do than stuffing a donut-shaped piece of foam.

Interesting. That is not my experience with 5-minute epoxies (I'm currently using Devcon brand, but I have used multiple brands in the past, but not JB Weld). While it does take longer to set in cooler ambient temperature (my workshop is currently at 59 deg. F) even then, after 10 minutes mine would be gelled enough not to be able to push the emblem into it. Anyway, forget I mentioned it. If someone waits too long, at least in that stage the gelled epoxy can be easily peeled off the surface of the model for another attempt.

I fully expected you to chime in. You're such a wonderful guy, I don't know how I would survive without your friendly and helpful input. I am also complete aware that Steve did not mention curing time. My post was directed at Steve G. mainly because from his prolific responses in the recent epoxy thread I knew he uses 5-minute epoxy in his modeling. It also seems illogical to use a longer setting epoxy (I think 15 minute stuff is the next step after 5 minutes) when attaching an emblem. Call me crazy, but that's my story and I'm (after 10 minutes) stickiness with it. 😜

LOL! The future is here!

10 minutes? You are the likely not using 5-minute epoxy because in my experience after 10 minutes while not fully hardened it is hardened enough not to adhere to anything.

Do we really have to continue going into details of bloody industrial accidents guys? This thread was about tools and techniques of cutting styrene, not citing most gruesome examples of stupidity while using power tools. If you really want, start a "gruesome accidents" thread in the off-topic section. Really.

Another option to fill the tire is to use backer rods from a hardware store. They are made from a foam material similar to pool noodles and some pipe insulation. They are available in multiple sizes and a length of it can be stuffed into the tire to spread out the sidewalls. But at this point we don't even know what is the actual problem that makes Brenton want to glue the tire to the wheel. He just mentioned "loose", not that the tire sidewalls are too narrow at the wheel.

These are likely also photoetched but just from a thicker metal.

I'm also surprised that tires have to be glued to the rims. Usually that is not necessary. But as David mentioned CA glue will work.

If they are learning from this forum they will have interesting views on which airbrush is the best and which paints are bad for the model car hobby.

They sure were. We are also lucky to still have many talented members in our club.

I miss Barry! Yes, he was a god friend and a great modeler using old-school Testors paints. He did win quite few awards for his models. Here are couple photos of Barry's models taken by me from our club's website. I am posting links because our website does not have https (secure certificate) and many browsers will not display them if I show them embedded in the message. Just click on each link. http://classicplastic.org/image/2011-BarryFadden01.jpg http://classicplastic.org/image/2014-BarryFadden01.jpg

Well, not in all instances. When modelers use a source of 3V it is usually small button cell Lithium batter (like CR2032). Those batteries are incapable of supplying current high enough to burn up most LEDs. Without getting too technical, that is because those small batteries have high internal resistance. That internal resistance acts in a way similar to an external series-connected resistor. If your 3V source was capable of supplying high current (low internal resistance), you could easily overdrive white blue and especially red and yellow LEDs. LEDs operate on current. White, blue and true green LEDs at their normal operating current develop around 3V across them, while red LEDs develop 1.7V and yellow and yellow/green around 2V. If you connect couple of AA or larger size alkaline batteries in series that will give you a source of 3.1V with with low internal resistance (they can supply large amount of current). If you connected that to a white LED, without an additional series-connected resistor it would glow very brightly. If you connected It to a red LED, it would glow extremely bright for an instant, then it would go dark after releasing its "magic smoke". Most modelers don't have any electronic background or understanding how LEDs operate and build their LED circuits based in anecdotal info find online or even in magazine articles (which are usually written by average modelers without full understanding how LEDs work).

Wow, this forum is really educational. All these years I wondered why those truck wheels had holes. For brake drum cooling maybe? No, those are hand holes. Now it all make sense. Thanks Tommy!