peteski

No battle. That's why I stated "So I guess the definition of what "works good" is can vary from modeler to modeler. " We both presented our experiences. What is still "good" for me is not the same as "good" for you.

Highly unlikely. There is not enough interest in motorcycle models (as compared to automotive subjects) to warrant producing a new set of expensive molds.

Yes, that is true. Some formulations of polystyrene seem to be affected more than others.

Yes, the last package was shipped at the same time but missed the boat. It will arrive on the next boat.

Yes, both Castrol Super Clean (CSC) and Purple Power use purple color containers. Purple Power is simply a knockoff of CSC, so they try to make it look like the "real" stuff. Just like the packaging and names of generic (or store brand) foot items often look similar to the brand name packaging and names.

What do you consider as "working better"? As I mentioned, if I bought the extra thin CA and it thickens up due to its age (and being exposed to humidity), I can't really use it for applications which specifically require extra thin CA. I still use it when the task calls for a "regular" viscosity CA. It still bonds well (as a "regular" viscosity CA). If it keeps getting even thicker, I just throw it away. I don't hold it to the time when it becomes stringy. So I guess the definition of what "works good" is can vary from modeler to modeler.

I should have also mentioned this in my earlier post: As CA ages (moisture exposure), CA glue doesn't specifically lose its adhesive power. It just gets thicker and thicker. So if you bought the extra-thin CA, it will eventually change its viscosity to "regular", then "gap-filling", then thicker and thicker. I don't really think its thickening reduces its adhesive properties. Still, if you bought the extra-thin CA, you bought it for a specific tasks for which gap-filling CA would not really work well. Yes, the setting time also gets longer the thicker the CA becomes, but that is also true with the thicker versions right from the factory. Example, while using accelerator factory fresh extra-thin CA will set in just couple of seconds, but a factory fresh gap-filling CA will need 15-20 seconds to fully set.

Thanks John. Interesting mixture of ingredients. Some of which seem like they would belong in paints or decal setting solutions, and MEK isn't listed there (unless they use an alternate chemical name I'm not familiar with). I'm not chemist but I always like to keep myself educated on the hobby chemicals I use.

There are alternatives. I'm also into N-scale model railroading. You might have a local NTRAK or T-Trak modular clubs in your area you could join. Then you build a module (2' X 4' for NTRAK or much smaller module for T-Trak) or more than one, and participate in their larger layouts. That way you just own a small piece of a layout to build and maintain. My NTRAK club assembles our layout during model train shows for a day or two of fun. We run trains and interact with the show's spectators. I also have few friends who have full size N scale home layouts. We operate them regularly and I participate in their construction and maintenance. That accounts for many fun hobby hours. Actually, I have too many hobbies!

I'm glad it worked out. I have never used that brand/type of liquid cement. Any chance that it lists its ingredients (in English)?

That's a good news, but it isn't really "chrome", but it looks like chrome. Well, I sure hope that their "chroming" service doesn't actually use electroplating thicker coat of metallic chrome or similar metal, like what Trumpeter did on few of their car kits. That stuff was almost impossible to scrape off for gluing, and it didn't really look all that good. Colloquially known as "chrome" in modeling circles, the metallic coating used for plastic model kits is not Chromium, and I hope Spotlight's service offers the same type of vacuum metalization as what is used for most model kits.

Well, no. Desiccant (by definition) absorbs moisture from ambient air, so it will prolong CA's shelf life It is not just about musty smells.

I agree, but also doubt it will help.

Testors liquid cement is mostly MEK. It will crack thin stressed styrene strips. It also has a slower evaporation rate than methylene chloride. Tenax 7R (or whatever its name was) was Methylene Chloride. It is no longer available but there are alternatives. One is to get a quart of Methlylene Chloride from amazon and have enough for the rest of your life. You could purchase hobby-size bottle of Styrene Tack-It II plastic welder from www.jmhobbysupply.com Some hobby shops stock it too (mine does). I also believe Micro_Mark also sells similar liquid cement.

Yes, some Evergreen strip styren behaves like that when under stress (being bent). But since there is no stress on the door handle, that should be no problem. Also in my experience cements based on MEK affect plastic that way, but not cement based on Methylene Chloride. Not sure how Tamiya cement affects stressed styrene (f that's what you use).

Yes, the yellowing id due to a clear protective coating applied over the metalization. This was sometimes done by some model companies.

Yes solvent cement will remelt and weld the plastic back to single piece. You can also add some more plastic if needed to build up the thickness. But make sure to wait few days to allow all the solvent to evaporate, or the plastic will stay softer.

Sure, that looks bright, smooth, and shiny, but it doesn't look anything like chrome finish. It looks more like polished aluminum. That is perfect for an aircraft which is made of aluminum, but doesn't quite look correct to simulate chromed automobile parts. Chrome has different type of reflectivity than polished aluminum. I guess not all people recognize the difference or are bothered by it.

After the last companies closed shop, the plating (well, actually aluminum vacuum metalizing) service for hobbyist is sorely missed. Hopefully Spotlight Hobbies will come through. The problem is that (like with most hobbies related businesses), nobody is getting rich doing it. It is more or less a labor of love that not many people want to deal with. There are several paint-type of chrome finishes available out there, but IMO none beat the look of the real "chrome" plating used by model companies.

That *HUGE* link to the eBay item Rodney posted it chock full of tracking info. If you don't like to be tracked, use the short version https://www.ebay.com/itm/353047744503 . No tracking! FYI, when posting a link to an eBay item, all you need is the part up to the first question mark. Trim the remainder (including that question mark).

Yes, moisture will affect the CA glue, and cause it to gradually thicken up. But if you protect it from moisture, it will remain usable for years. Bunch of useful info you didn't know about this stuff is in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate If you don't like reading technical and historical trivia, skip towards the end for the most useful info (like the shelf life). Personally I found it all interesting.

Looks like some sort of subscription-based model collection. I wouldn't mind getting few of those models because as Racine mentioned, those aren't available as plastic models. They look to be pretty well made. https://www.salvat.com/autos-inolvidables-mexico-219 Looks similar to series done by DeAgostini. Collections of diecast model cars with something in common.

Another hint is not to use what looks like (pricey) Tamiya tape for all the masking. I use it just for masking the areas close to the paint edges, then the remaining areas can be covered by less expensive Scotch blue painters tape or something similar.

True, but AI is still in its infancy. Give it a year or two and . . .

Interesting how some of the steering wheels visible through the windshield look like thin twisted ribbons.