stitchdup

liver achie is not a flamboyant pianist but it is a terrible dinner

I worked in a petrol station for a few months when i was younger. I've watched people fill up the oil right to the top then get confused why the dipstick doesn't work any more (clue, more than one dipstick in this story) I watched someone get irate that i kept stopping the fuel feed when they were flling up their transit pick up. The transit pick up had a cut down van front for the cab but it still had the fuel flap but only a hole ahint it cos its pretty obvious the large pipe with the yellow cap saying fuel on it coming out of the tank is the filler but no, this guy insisted he was right, poured loads of gas on his feet, paid and ran out of gas before making it to the road but somehow the pump was faulty. Or the college janitor that knew better than me, the lowly temp cleaner, and used boiling water and industrial bleach to unblock a toilet, and when that didn't work added industrial drain unblocker (used for fatbergs) that caused the toilet contents to fountian straight up in face followed by a cloud of pretty nasty chemical gas that caused the college to have to shut down for a week and get specialist cleaners called in at over a 150k. he's now the building manager?

I would cut out the area of the panel, slightly smaller than the outside trim edge, then add the trim to the body with a small inner edge. I would cut a flat piece of sheet to fit the hole you cut and put any needed curvature in before gluing it to the inner edge of the trim you added. Next I would mark out the 3 trim pieces on the inside on the thinnest sheet i had, leaving connections between them at each end and glue only the parts you need down. Once the glue has dried you can carefully trim away the 4 connections and you will be left with 3 perfectly inline trim pieces on a finished panel ready for paint and foil. If you wanted to add the lights also, I would cut them out before paint and foil and add some small pite of sheet to the back. Then its just making some lenses after its foiled and painted.

not quite, they were mazda 626 floorpans and running gear but the body was american. mazda didn't have a suitable sports car chassis apart from the rotary rx7 incidentaly the mk2 version was sold in europe too while the first only got sold in america, canada and germany. it was part of the world car program that included the contour/mondeo and fiesta. eventually it led to the second trully world car from ford (the t was first)

I want to see a car show with these guys. I'm bored of the full custom everything so lets get the frank spencers of modified cars on tv

I have the little printer rnning today and it has made some concerning noises. From reading i learned it is apparently caused by the print plate not being zeroed correctly but resetting it made no difference. Iturned out to be a minute piece of exposed resin on the edge of the print plate stopping it going fully down. I dont know how it got there as it was newly replaced fep on the tank bottom but i had missed out treating it with rain-x. a good clean and wipe down with rain x and its silent again.

I got new neighbours last week. I hope they dont stay too long as they have been throwing their trash out the window instead of placing it in a bin like decent people. So due to human nature and the excitement a mystery parcel can generate, I have individually wrapped each peice of litter and posted back to them. But simple forgetful me forgot to add any postage on any of the 16 peices of mail they are about to recieve, so to find out whats inside they will have to pay the postage first which due to the ground being small rocks may be higher than it would have been. Hopefully paying out close to 100 quid to get their rubbish returned will make them think twice

since i lost my fav scriber i treated myself to a nice shiny new tamiya version. and since i was in the shop anyway i also got a half dozen jar paints.

sabre tooth tigers didn't really go extinct, they just evolved into karens and mothers in law

you can set how far back it shows using the drop down menus at the top of the unread content page. it only doesn't show if you've read the threads previously or marked site as read. if you haven't looked at a thread since new content was added then it will still show up. on the other menu pages it still shows things in order of the most recent post to a thread.

did you maybe post it in the mock ups thread?

potatoes of the sweet variety have proven that polynesians were the first to populate many pacific islands as far apart as new zealand and hawaii and were the first to discover america

I find it depends on the wheels. for wire wheels and bbs style rims i find they print better flat and theres way less chance of the spokes breaking when you remove them. when wheels with spokes are at any angle the supports tend to be on the spokes but when they are flat it seems to ignnore them. Most other styles i have upright but angled back between 30 and 45 degrees. if the wheels are fairly thick walled they go nearer 30 but the thinner the wall the more angle i put on them but never over 45. Having said that i printed out a few of the slowlysmodels bomb wheel sets which are thick walled but i printed them flat and everyone of them turned out great. blackbox wheels i print at 45 every time with decent success.

I've been slicing them straight from lychee to the stick. I'll try it your way and see if the sticks last any longer

I just finished a custom cyber truck model. i gave it a custom bumper and a usable bed but its otherwise stock. the wrap is custom too.

The tamiya bug has to be in the list. If you ever want to buld a custom bug the tamiya is by far the best to start with. You can build it out of the box for a nice stock build, but it also has enough detail for those of us that want something more and the floorpan is the best for doing body swaps as it doesn't include the arches on the pan like the revell does. Its also useful if you want to full detail a gunze ghia as the chassis fit is just the same as the tamiya ghia. it could also be used under a palmer kit if you wanted to call it a kit car For the split bus kits I would go for the hasegawa just because i prefer the one piece body and it has more aftermarket available for it. Slamming it is as easy as raising the chassis mounts on the body and trimming the seat bases beach buggys I would go for the blackbox 3d printed street buggy. the kit ones are nice but the street buggy has engine and chassis options which in effect make the one kit into a nine engine variation if you mix and match parts and has 2 suspension options revell mk1 golf. nothing much to be said, it blow every other mk1 kit out of the water and with the aftermarket options you can use it to full detail the tamiya kamai racecar fujimi mk2 golf. I just prefer the fujimi to the revell. I know the revell should be a better kit but it kinda looks stretched or tall to me. the fujimi looks more right in the body from a visual perspective and it doesn't have stretched front seat bases. I know people have measured both and the revell is closer to being right scaled but the fujimi still looks more right to me. tamiya nissan skyline r32 and 72 skyline kits. the skyline is a important car just because of its race heritage and cult status in the tuning world. these are good kits that build up nice italeri ford escort mk2 rally car. old kit thats showing its age but if you just want one rally car on your shelf it should be the one thats still being raced hard today. any pre war car kit by heller. everybody should build a heller kit at some point just because of the different way they go together. revell snapper tractors. once together nobody will know its a snapper. look great on the shelf and if you buy 2 you and your grandkids can build the same model together. they include stickers and decals heller massey ferguson te20. the best tractor kit by far. sure the autoart ones have more parts but the fergie was sold everywhere. there is nobody alive today thats food production didn't involve a fergie at some point. a jeep kit needs to be included. if it wasn't for the jeep land rover wouldn't have had something to copy

nice, i've got the crew cab to print some time so its good to see it turns out good

it just occured to me i have used tamiya transparents to paint a full body. I used duplicolour golds and silvers and reflective paints for the stripes then hit the whole thing with tamiya red. its hard to get a decent pic as the tamiya clear red took on a sorta translucent shine when the flash hits it

I used the bench from an italeri opel truck in mine but its a not very detailed bench from a truck so it probably wouldn't have been but it fits with the style of the dash and door cards. The seats from a 40 ford or similar era car should work though.

I use the smoke on grilles to bring out the detail. It builds up nice in the indentations and makes kit chrome look a bit more real. if you want to use it to bring out detail you either have to work very ast or very slow as it builds up on the edges too and can very quickly go from looking good to looking like its been sat in waste oil. I've used it to make oil stains on floord for dios too. I see no reason it wouldn't work the way you suggested too and now you've suggested it, ghost stripes and flames should be a cinch without having to tint paints

time waits for no man unless you buy a chinese watch

my sd cards and readers experiment didn't work. the printers would or could not read the sd cards. I have a friend visiting later with different readers just to check it isn't the problem but for now its a fail

earth is where most people latibulate

theres a subtle hint why the race decals aren't included on the box

i find a quick rub with a 400 or 600 grit sanding sponge followed by automotive filler primer the best way. when i'm applying the primer i hold the can pretty low to the model so its spraying across the layer lines rather than painting normally. i find it saves on paints as more catches in the ridges. I alternate direction with each pass too. If there any finer detail i want to save i mask it off before starting and will brush it afterwards. Once you get the primer method for 3d prints sorted in a way that works for you, the rest is pretty much the same as any other build