BigTallDad

Nice looking Impala; my Dad had a '66 Impala convertible. I have a suggestion, but don't want to offend you.

Out of idle curiosity, how can you post an "I am no longer able to post..." comment if in fact you can't post? Seems like an oxymoron to me.

Harry Pristovnik built Pochers https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Pocher-Rivarossi-1936-Mercedes-Benz-540K-Cabrio-Kit-1-8-Scale-K82-VINTAGE/263839554045?hash=item3d6e1019fd:rk:5:pf:0

Great tip; thank you.

Excellent tip. Not everybody has access to an old bicycle tube, but a wide rubber band will also work.

Acetone and plastic don't play well together

Very different and well done. Did you perhaps mean Chernobyl, rather than Chornobyl?

Those are great kits, and you did it justice...very nicely done. I noticed the lettering on the trunk emblem isn't filled in and (hard to tell) same goes for the lettering on the dog dishes and hood badge. This can still be remedied with little or no risk to the finished model. I use the watercolors meant for children; less than $2 at Walmart. Get the paint sort-of thick, then fill in the letters; if you color outside the lines, no big deal. After the paint is dry, dampen a business card and use the edge to wipe away any excess. The same technique can be used for grilles...

You might want to consider heating the end then using the flat parts on the jaws of needle nose pliers instead of your fingers to flatten it...more consistent.

I'm running out of storage space

Electrical wire insulation might be another option.

Very nicely done! Everything looks great. As a thought (not a criticism or even a suggestion) I sometimes have the headrests on the buckets at different heights; the same holds true with the seat placement...all the way back for the driver (I'm 6'6"), not so far back for the passenger...just something to consider on your next build. It adds just a bit more realism.

Nice job! Instead of trying to move this to the "Under Glass" area, start a new thread there and show some pictures of the completed model. Then include a link to this WIP so readers can see the finished model, then look at how it was done.

Try a brown Sharpie

Toe nail clippers (not very expensive) work very well for cutting, and are available with convex, straight, and concave cutting edges.

Extremely well done! Also, thank you for your pictures...well thought out, showing what needs to be shown, and reasonable in number.

Regarding the cement to use, I'd stay away from CA (superglue) as it can easily fog the clear plastic.

Another option would be using the sticky part of a Post-It note...very low tack.

I used the body from the AMT kit and the chassis from the Monogram convertible kit.

A couple of dozen, over a 60 year time frame. I go for quality, not quantity, and I have other hobbies(woodworking, stained glass, etc.) that share time with building models.

An excellent rendition! The paint job is stellar! I owned a 1:1 '55 and it did not, however, have an alternator; it had a generator (longer, smaller diameter, and done in black)

Another approach for X-actos is here http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/102340-xacto-or-paint-brush-rack/?tab=comments#comment-1432702 and here http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/103458-more-xacto-storage/?tab=comments#comment-1455382

This post has been dormant for almost four years, but to answer one of your questions...the purple pond can damage metal (if you doubt it, toss an old paintbrush with a metal ferrule into it) Try oven cleaner instead.

I thought you were talking about the 2000 election, where Florida had a problem with hanging chad...

After you've painted the light color and it is thoroughly dry, mask it off. Apply a light coat of clear to the edge of the tape, let that dry, then paint the dark color. The clear coat will help seal the edge of the masking tape, and if any bleed-through occurs, it will be the clear paint.