BigTallDad

Reminds me of a compass in a drafting set.

Great imagination and execution with that center console! Out of idle curiosity, was there no generator included in the kit?

At first I thought it stood for Shaking My Head

Welcome aboard!

Stellar work! Just an observation...the battery positive terminal is next to the inner fender wall. If a "bump" were to occur, the electrical system could malfunction. If you can, re-paint the wires to reverse the polarities.

Great build so far. As an old coot that owned cars in that era, the front fender wells were a satin/flat black and the firewall was body color. Keep up the great work!

Excellent Job! Is that a 6 volt battery in the engine compartment?

With the proper set-up and patience, a dehydrator can correct warped parts. Don't expect results in ten minutes or so...it's an overnight process.

Arghh, yes, that's what I meant. Good catch!

My '64 Impala SS had the same arrangement on its 327 cubic inch engine. As I recall, the housing was straight, not tapered. The decal looked like this

Try using a dehydrator (like the ones used to dry paint). Clamp the warped part in it and let it work overnight.

Just take the kit to a scanner (located throughout the store) and get a price check.

Very nicely done, especially the "dirty" tires.

Trust me, I truly appreciate this approach! The quality of the pictures should prevail, not the quantity.

Instead of foil, take some watercolor paints made for kids and add chunks to Pledge with Future. Apply a coat with a paint brush, let it dry, then decide if another coat is needed.

That's why the crime rate is so high; Superman no longer has a place to change clothes.

I've heard of modelers that use only distilled water for wet-sanding. Also, there was an earlier mention of using paper towels; as an aside, Bounty paper towels are not made using recycled materials...just food for thought. Back to the topic at hand, a soft 1/2 " paintbrush will also help with those "Stubborn stains". A bit of distilled water, a dab of dish soap, and you're good to go.

I do them the old fashioned way...but I have experience in a machine shop http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/102101-a-handy-accessory/?tab=comments#comment-1428008

As a suggestion... While assembling the kit, save a few large pieces of sprue and use them to test paint compatibility if needed. Yes, spoons will also work, but the sprue contains the exact same plastic as the parts that were on it.

A simple answer would be chalk. Rub it on, brush off what you need for realism (an old toothbrush or fairly stiff paint brush). Put some dark (or light) colored chalk on some scrap whatever, and blend it in with your diorama

You can also use watercolors...chip off a small piece and dissolve it in the liquid. The water colors work well for washing chrome, so you get two different uses for a set of eight colors (make sure the set has white, for dog-dish hub caps) that cost a little over a dollar at Walmart. ps

I wait until the day after...the candy is on sale. Same holds true for Easter, Christmas, etc.

I agree. The headlights could have been converted to bring fresh air into the carbs...much better than that tiny scoop on top of the hood.

Here's some more info on Aleene's https://www.michaels.com/aleenes-original-tacky-glue/10503417.html?cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_National_PLA_Shopping_Null_Null_Papercraft_General-_-Papercraft&&cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_National_PLA_Shopping_Null_Null_Papercraft_General-_-Papercraft&gclid=CjwKCAiAv9riBRANEiwA9Dqv1ShAxNQY1yOhlKi_AAedfhjL5wocZ0qrSm6BxUVp2Y-AXUoQH9p5mBoCg8IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I see this quite often...the top of the radiator needs to be smoothed out to get rid of the mold marks. Probably too late for this build, but something to keep in mind for the future