BigTallDad

This morning it was 40 outside...that's COLD for southwest Florida.

I think I like this thread more than the "What did I get today" post, although I'm a tad skeptical of those boxes in that well-done trailer. Just take a look at all those tiny, evenly spaced drilled holes in the roof ribs if you think this is a diorama...

Awesome job! I especially like the way you did the paint on the trailing edges of each grille bar...just like the factory! That calls for some extremely careful masking and painting.

Everything is crisp and clean...very nice work. For accuracy, you might want to remove the front license plate; Florida required pairs of plates for only four years—1918, 1919, 1920, and 1921. In all other years, the state has required only one plate, on the rear of the vehicle. Yeah, I know...picky picky picky.

I too am waiting for the next episode, but I'm also curious about "steerable" vs "poseable"...can you shed some light on this?

Rather than use wire, consider using plain old sewing thread. Soak it in some Elmer's White Glue (which dries clear) and put it in place. If you get any smears, they'll clean up with water or Wondex.

Looking great so far. Glad you're getting back to work on this '55.

You can also add Pearl X to the paint, adding as much (or as little) as desired to get the desired results. Pearl X is available at Michael's, and comes in a variety (gold, silver, etc.) of colors.

Do the propellers spin?

I'm not sure if it's available in England, but a product called Goo Gone will also remove the adhesive.

I agree; it looks electrical in nature (I looked at my '48 aerosedan to be sure). I doubt if it is the master cylinder, since the item in question is located under the front passenger seat.

Have we lost our sense of humor?

If you take some pictures, load 'em into MS Paint. That will allow you to stretch (or narrow) vertically and horizontally.

There's another way to address the Woody aspect... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101995-woodification-making-it-a-woodie/#comment-1425640

Just to throw another log or two into the fire... Circles are easy, if you have a drill press and a fly-cutter; for smaller circles, use hole punches. Although I've not done it, I believe a pantograph could be adapted to house a Dremel tool (with the appropriate bits) instead of a drawing implement; first, make an accurate part, then trace it to cut larger/smaller/same-size parts.

If the flakes are ferric (iron) wrap some saran wrap around a magnet and immerse the magnet in the paint. Ferric particles will be attracted to the magnet...remove the magnet from the paint, then the saran wrap from the magnet. The saran wrap makes it easy to clean the magnet and the flakes are not stuck to the magnet. This same approach works for those time when you drop a box of nuts/bolts, paper clips, etc. and is especially better when dealing with Xacto blades. Use the lid from a chip dip container instead of saran wrap...set the lid over the parts, place the magnet on the lid, move the lid to a box/cup/etc. and remove the magnet. All the parts are now in the box and you don't have to mess with the magnet. Repeat as necessary.

OK, so much for offering assistance

The photoetched saws from Model Car Garage...they are a "pull cut" (like a coping saw), not a "push cut" (like a hack saw), correct?

Why not cut your own? Take a strip of quality tape (Tamiya, for example) and lay it on a clean, smooth surface (piece of glass, window, etc). Using a steel straight edge and Xacto knife, cut off a narrow strip and use it, making sure the cut edge is the masking edge. The strip you cut will have the cleanest edge you'll see, with no dust, dents, etc.

You too? I'm also in a slump, have three kits I want to do, but no incentive. Being retired, I have all the time in the world to work on kits, but it was becoming an obsession and no longer a hobby.

Good idea! Is that anything like a warmer for coffee mugs? Sure sounds like it.

Rather than use a candle (which can deposit carbon soot on the plastic) why not build a small alcohol burner or use a soldering iron for heating the plastic?

Send me the kit; I'll build it

Just for giggles, consider replicating one or two shades that are drawn up (open)... Cut a strip of heavy white paper (such as a business card) the width of the window; soak the paper in water for a few minutes, then tightly weave it through the teeth of a comb. After it's dry, the paper has all the appearance of a drawn-up shade. You might want to smash the whole thing together, to give sharper edges to the folds. Just a thought...

How about sharing your solution?