BigTallDad

If you take a short piece of insulation that will fit over the plug wire, cut it mid-length at a 45 degree angle. Rotate one piece 180 degrees and you have a right angle; slide one piece on the plug wire, bend the plug wire at 90 degrees, slide the second piece on, then dip in your liquid electrical tape. I think you can also get 90 degree boots from Pro Tech.

I'm not able to upload images at all, even though I'm only at 4% utilization. I can tell that I'm logged on already because I see my other images. Every time I click the Upload icon, it loops back to the logon screen. I've contacted P/B and they replied with "I am very sorry for the inconvenience that this has caused you. This is a known issue affecting several users and our engineering team is troubleshooting the problem. We will get this resolved as soon as we can!" Anybody else having problems?

Here's another site you might find helpful http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/

You can also use clear paint (making sure it's compatible with the finish coat on the model) and, if you're like most three-year-olds, you paint outside the lines you can always rub it out.

Rather than using thin black, add a drop or two (a little experimentation might be in order) of the black to the white you used for the body. Thin that out and apply. That way you don't get the drastic/stark contrast on the panel lines. This also works for other light colors, such as yellow, red, etc.

Just a word of caution when cutting metal pins (especially if you're using guitar string): WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!

I clean mine twice a decade like clockwork.

More details, please. Did you buy them, make them, want to sell them, etc.?

Not at all. I've been retired for over seven years, and actually sold off all those kits I had planned to build. When you're working, kits are a hobby; when you're retired, the drive to build the kits becomes an obsession and it is no longer fun or a hobby. I think that all six kits that I have will probably last a lifetime, based on the speed (?) at which I build. With that in mind, the higher prices will probably not be an impact, unless there's a kit for a 1:1 that I've owned in the past is released.

Nicely done, but it leads me to some questions. What's the difference between Pro Touring and Pro Street? Are there such things as Amateur Touring and Amateur Street?

If you're merely trying to repair the kit and originality is not an issue, replace the plastic posts. Cut the post off, leaving about 1/4" at the base. Apply epoxy, then screw a tee-nut on the post remnant. After the epoxy cures, you have a threaded sleeve that uses machine-thread screws.

Great start, Art. I remember some of your other builds from that "other" site that was over managed by a certain rectum.

According to the factory brochures, the 300 had a black mesh grille and the Newport was a natural metal. I've found this place to be a goldmine of information: http://oldcarbrochures.com/

You might also want to get another regulator/filter from MicroMark. That will let you dial down the 90 psi that Snake 45 suggested to a lower number as well as provide a water-vapor filter.

Awesome dashes Ron, and bring back some memories! I'm also glad to see this thread GET BACK ON TRACK and hope it stays there (even though I made a needed off-track response). Thanks again.

I'm not seeing any images Ron.

Regardless of your driving skills and attentiveness, mechanical failure can result in an accident.

Hope you heal up, and very soon! I'm retired, so I have lots of time to make exotic bases that will compliment as well as complement your awesome builds!

Nice recovery! Being a veteran and a patriot, I might have leaned towards a blue bed liner (just kidding).

There are also filters that go inside garden hose fittings...get 'em at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/generac/b2384gs?gclid=cnvekvrhtdacfynehgodxlujuw They are nice and small and might fit inside the rim of a paint bottle.

Don't "grow houses" also use UV lamps? If so, purchasing a lamp for model purposes might arouse suspicion.

Harry? I'd like to see the Mercedes with the Corvette scallops on the front fenders, if you still have that on file somewhere...it might get this thread back on track.

Same here. I prefer a #14 for BMF; the decreased angle seems to work better for me, and I can follow an edge much more easily. I also cheat just a little...I've carried a pocket knife for over 65 years and know how to sharpen one. On my bench, I keep a small piece of wood with an old leather belt glued to it (rough side out); a bit of jeweler's rouge and I have an excellent strop to freshen up an edge.

Another method for making the negative mold is burnishing aluminum foil over the handle, shiny side out. Then, as Harry mentioned, fill with resin, etc. Remember, the driver's side handle is different from the passenger's side. When you're done, you have a door handle that is "chrome" plated...you might want to make all four that way. That technique can be used to duplicate other items (such as hood/trunk emblems) as well.

I wish I had my '57 Chevy convertible again.