Oldriginal86

I haven’t used any 3D printed body parts but have built several engines. Depending on the vendor, there may be print lines in the part. Several coats of primer and sanding sessions should take care of all but the most severe lines. Choose the vendor carefully. The better the print, less work. No difference in painting and assembling printed parts versus plastic kit parts other than the glue. CA adhesive and accelerator works well. The paint was just Testors bottle paint either airbrushed or brushed on. No issue with paint drying other then silver.

I never thought to save the test paint spoons. I store most of my finished kits back in their original box so I could save the spoons there too.

I can’t think of any situation that wouldn’t require a small touch up if the part is painted on the tree or a must “remove” unless it in an area that will be covered by another part. The manufactures of kits are doing a better job of parts being molded with the locating pins at the sprue.

The chrome plating process on 1:1 vehicles is an electroplating. To successfully remove it, the process needs to be reversed. If the grill is some type of plastic, I’m not sure. I have sand blasted a set of chrome plated headers and painted them with varying degree of paint adhesion.

That’s the issue with most of the heavy truck kits. That International 4070 hasn’t been on the road since the early 1980’s. I can’t believe they spent money on new tooling just for that kit. The Detroit Diesel engine that comes in a lot of the kit’s hasn’t been made since the 70’s. It’s great if your building a truck graveyard diorama. Thinking about what I just wrote as I work on a 60 Chevy pickup kit. I digress.

I don’t have a large area to display my finished kits so most of the time I’ll put the model back in its respective box.

I’m not sure CA is the correct adhesive for long term. I would use a two part epoxy. As far as filler, good old Bondo is compatible with both.

Well done. Love the color.

You may be able to put down a relatively smooth paint job with a spray bomb but the airbrush atomizes the paint much better. You’ll be surprised how much less work it needs after the paint is laid down. Less aggressive sanding and polishing. Practice on a few bodies or spoons. I bet you don’t go back to the bomb on bodies.

Thanks for the pics Dan. When you get a chance, can we get more of the interior, and under carriage. Thanks in advance.

The next gen cars are what I had in mind when I wrote that. Their other cars of the by-gone era are ok I guess. I stopped building any race car kit years ago.

That’s what made building NASCAR kits exciting years ago. Now from what I’ve seen here all cars the same in size, color and performance. Just different stickers. Would be cool if the kit manufactures would offer the body and decal kit. Could build one chassis and swap the bodies.

I don’t filter. I do use new bottles of paint when doing bodies so there isn’t any dried residue. Those filters that drop into the airbrush look Iike the ticket though.

There used to be a liquid masking product. Not sure if it’s still available.

Well done. Been looking on the net for interior pictures and there doesn’t appear to be many options unless black and it’s many variants are on the list. I like what you did with your seat colors. Just picked this kit up yesterday and going to go off script by using tan shades inside and some type of orange outside. I would imagine in a few weeks more completed builds will show up. Congrats on being the first.

Picked up one today. $19.19 with the 40% off.

I’ve got one in the works now. I wanted to do something with a red interior. Yours looks great. Mine will be red on the outside.

I couldn’t bring myself to purchase this kit when it was originally out. Thought it was ridiculous. After seeing this build, I wish there was one in my stash for nostalgia’s sake. Well executed build!

The Nova SS kit from Möbius has two nicely molded horns. I should have resin molded a few of these prior to installing but didn’t think about it until it was mentioned here.

I would say there was quite a bit of editing since the box art shows a shortened CJ7 and the real picture is a CJ5. The wheels in the M&M Jeep appear to be Jackmans and the ones in the kit are the factory wagon wheels produced by American Wheel.

Ditto

A Dremel with a cut-off wheel or sidecutter pliers and clean up with a file.

I hope not. They need to be built, not sit in someone’s basement or storage unit. There are other more lucrative ways to send our grandkids to college.

I keep dropping hints to Charles from Texas3dcustoms to put it on his list of things to do. Now that we have plenty of slant 6 options, it’s time to move onto a few American Motors.

Dreaming I know, but I’d like an inline 6 instead of the V8.