Oldriginal86

Don’t forget the classic, Talladega Nights. The legend of Ricky Bobby.

I’m not in favor of the way these wheels are made. Not sure what the benefit is. Not all change is for the better.

Interesting use of color on the inner fenders. I’m sure with the research done they are correct. Very well detailed.

Ironic that this came up just as I’m building a flatbed dually stake body.

I’m a big fan of this era of Chevy trucks and I like the direction you took with this one. Well done.

Maybe we need an Ollie’s swap thread!

Very nice build. The wiper arms and blades are the most realistic I’ve seen. Beautiful paint in my favorite color.

Great story.

Reminds me of the old Verti-Bird helicopter toy. Well done.

Beautiful build! Did the cab lights come in the kit or aftermarket?

In all seriousness Bill, we have tried to put together some type of qualifying test for new technicians. This could be one of the easy tasks.

Very realistic build. Is that safety wire on the body work? Very well done.

Let me know what your looking for and I’ll go through what I have. Probably should do this this on another thread or in private.

There was a thread on this forum about a 3D print that looked nice. Don’t remember the scale. found the thread. 3D printing an entire kit - Suzuki Kei Micro-Truck

My family owned a 1971 Ford Falcon station wagon. 6cylinder with a stick shift on the column. It wasn’t a “ Country Squire” as those with wood grained contact paper on the sides were known. It was a POS though. Traded in 2years later on a K5 Blazer.

Built one of Texas3D customs printed LS engines. It comes with pulleys but no belt. Used masking tape to create what almost passes for a serpentine belt.

Been 50 plus years since my first kit, but I believe it was the MPC Jeepster kit. I looked for a picture on the web of the box as mine is looooong gone.

I keep my finished pieces in the room where I build. I don’t really display them so they stay covered with a paper towel. I only average a completed build per year so not many. Most are stored in the box the kit came in. Other then keeping them in a cabinet the dust will find them.

Won’t do that again. I though since it was such a small amount that it wouldn’t hurt. Then again I should have just dumped it. Thanks for the explanation.

If all is compatible why would this practice ruin the original paint other than changing its viscosity?

I have a can of flat black just like the picture Steve posted above that I thinned with “odorless” mineral spirits for airbrushing. I emptied the airbrush back into the can when finished. Next time I opened the can the paint had somewhat solidified. I have since used it thinning with lacquer thinner. It does clog the tip once in a while. I don’t think the “oil” in the oil base is mineral spirits even though the can says to thin with mineral spirits. Maybe it could be the odorless type I’m using.

Thanks. I’ll have to look for his videos.

There have been several threads on this forum that describe thinning or reducing enamel paint for shooting from an airbrush with lacquer thinner. My question is if the enamel was reduced with lacquer thinner and sprayed onto a surface, after curing, would it be safe to shoot lacquer thinned enamel onto it again to repair a scratch or blemish?

If that is the fuel tanks the part in question goes on, they appear to be a breather or fuel hose junction.

That looks awesome!