Steamboat

Excellent job! That grille looks fantastic.

I wish someone had done a Cherokee XJ. Jeep made almost 4 million of the 1:1 vehicle, but nobody makes a model?

Thanks guys. I agree that the engine looks weird. The intake is too wide and the air cleaner is too small, making it all look out of proportion. Everything is OOB. The hood is glued open, but in this case it might be better to "allow " it to open.

Sometimes the model talks to you.... This is the Lindberg 1/20 Grand Cherokee model molded in red. I was determined to paint this model white, to replicate my son's 1:1 Grand Cherokee. I knew the red bleed-through was going to be a problem. I tried 3 different primers - Testors Aluminum Plate, Mr. White Surfacer, and Rustoleum Gray. The model always came out pink when I put the final coat of white primer on it. Someone in my local club even suggested that I should probably paint the 1:1 car red, it might be easier, but I wouldn't give up. So it sat for a month while both the model and myself were too stubborn to give in. Then it came to me - MUD! Why waste good gloss top coat anyways? This is the result. It's painted with Rustoleum gray primer, Mr. Surfacer white primer, and Model Master acrylic dark brown. The mud is splattered on by snapping a paint brush. I used some artist's texture to give the mud some depth, but tried not to overdo it. This is my first time doing mud. Comments and constructive criticism are welcome.

Did these resin trucks ever come to fruition? I would be interested in one. Steamboat

I've got to give the Mr. Surfacer a thumbs-down. I wanted to paint the Lindberg Jeep Cherokee, which is molded in red. My son's 1:1 Jeep is white. Here's what the hood looks like after 2 coats of Mr. Surfacer white and 1 coat of Tamiya TS-26 white. I guess the model is going to end up being painted brown!

I just started using Tamiya filler because I liked the idea of having a white filler instead of red. There are a few areas which remained soft after several weeks, soft enough that I could scratch it off with my fingernail. There are 2 causes that come to mind: I wet sanded it once before I realized it was probably not necessary, and I usually thin the filler with lacquer thinner to give it more working time. Has anyone ever seen this issue?

I started building the 66 reissue a few months ago and lost interest. The parting lines are so misaligned at the C-pillar that I really could cut and reglue it and do better. Also, after doing some research I discovered that the original used a v-drive to connect the rear axle which the AMT kit does not have. I'm interested in this thread. Maybe it will get me motivated to complete the build!

I'm building the altered wheelbase, fuel injected version of the Barracuda. I'm using an original AMT kit, and cut up a resin body for parts and pieces. The Rat Packer AWB chassis fits the wheelbase nicely, but the front track was too narrow. I had to widen the frame and front axle. You can see the front axle in the background. It's still very rough.

I have 7 Petty builds from 1964 to 1993. Hear are a few of my favorites. The '68 is special because it was given to me as a basket case by a fellow modeler who has since passed away. The 68 is a '69 Johan. The other two are MPC. I am currently working on the '65 Barracuda drag car.

Very nice. Did you use the 69 Dart kit for the chassis?

I used mine for a 41 Plymouth build. I wish I had known what it is worth. I could have used any other kit. Seems like I have a knack for kit bashing the valuable ones!

Here are some pics of a van I built last year. It is a model of a 1:1 van I owned in the late 80's. The sliding door attaches at 3 points: 1) the slot in the quarter panel where it slides above the back wheel, 2) the top of the door frame, and 3) a track on the step which is concealed by a metal plate. I drilled 3 holes in the back of the door and glued in pieces of wire to simulate the brackets that the door rides on. The door does not move on the model. The inside step should be body color, but I screwed up the paint and had to cover it up with flat black. I think on some of the later years the track was concealed by a black plastic step instead of metal. You're in for a project. The step and door sills took a lot of trial and error to get right. I bet I had that body off and on the frame at least 100 times! Also remember to check everything for trueness before you start. As I remember, both the chassis pan and the frame were badly warped right out of the box. I also had to lower the ride height front and rear.

Very nice! It looks like you could drive it home!

Thanks guys. I just ordered some regular chrome. Hopefully this will solve the problem and salvage my build!

My first sheet came from the bad batch. Bare Metal replaced it for me for no charge, but the second sheet is no better. It still has virtually no adhesion. I am only having this problem with the Ultra Bright Chrome. I have Matte Aluminum and Gold and they both work well. Maybe they changed the formula to make it cheaper now that there is competition......

That's a good idea. Come to think of it, I'm storing it in my garage, which is about 90 degrees and 90% humidity.

Is anyone else getting poor quality Bare Metal Foil these days? It hardly sticks any more, especially on a polished surface. Is there a better substitute? I have a Molotow pen, but I don't think it's as shiny as BMF.

Superb in every way!

Beautiful job! You made it prettier than Plymouth could ever do. Some would say that Virgil Exner was already experiencing dementia when he designed it.

BTW, the distributor that came with my kit was about the same size in scale as a golf ball. I used one from my parts box!

I just built an AMT 66 mustang coupe which has the same engine instructions. Part #35 is a combination of the oil filler and the mechanical fuel pump.

Very nice! I'm currently finishing up a '75 myself. Where did you get the wheels?

Absolutely stunning! The best model I have seen this year! I don't chime in often but this one deserves applause.

I'm beginning to like the Revell versions more and more. The oil pan is what makes it realistic. The chrome one on that 392 is pretty sweet.