Jantrix

Now that looks terrific. Nice work John.

So last night I sit down and drag out two kits that I had recently bashed together with the intent on using the remaining pieces for another build. And for some reason the chassis I was planning to use was just ................................ gone. I didn't use it or consume it in the last build. I've not built anything else recently that would have used the part. But all the same, it's gone. I'm usually particularly meticulous about tracking that sort of stuff. I have a Post-It on every kit for me to record what parts have been added or removed. But still things just disappear. I think I have gremlins or something. Got em at your place?

Looking good Ray.

Remarkable work. I love it.

A very cool sleeper. Thanks much for participating in the CBP this year.

Hmmm. I recommend a Google search on "vintage baja racer".

Very cool!. I think it looks very authentic. I will say this though, the pure white suspension parts makes it look unfinished. Like it's white plastic mocked up. Perhaps a pale grey wash added to bring out the detail?

Well done!

There have been applications like this for Pinewood Derby cars for years.

Yep.

At risk of being the bad guy here, Jason, whatever you are using to replicate rust is very out of scale. I appreciate that you are trying something new, but I'd like to recommend you check out some weathering tutorials on Youtube. Shoot me a PM if I can help.

One of the long standing rules (at least when I ran the CBP) was that the car must "appear street legal". Read into that whatever you want.

Sounds right to me.

I'll go with 1. Down Under 2. Box Stock 3. Exotic/Concept

Very okay. There seemed to be a lot of interest in doing the Aussie Cannonball where about half the race would "off the paved roads". This is something we haven't tried yet and I think it's a great subject. The RHD drive conversion is a nice challenge also. There are a lot of options also. There are plenty of rally car kits, 4x4 kits and plenty of options for kitbashing into something like the 4x4 Charger in the latest Fast & Furious film. Also Baja racing would be a good source of inspiration as well.

Amazing stuff. Lets see some more.

I'll be paying attention here. After finishing my RPU, I'm going to use the pickup Model A chassis and suspension under the roadster body. It's going to be z'd to get it very low. One thing though Bernard, how far off the pavement is that oil pan now? Are you going to raise the engine?

Yes. It's a clamp. Check it out. http://www.micromark.com/spring-loaded-parts-holder-3and8-inch-1-3and8-inch-capacity,8543.html

Not to bad Jay. Since you asked for feedback, here goes. That sharp ridge on top of the fender in the first pic. Thats a line left over from the molding process and it should be removed. Try some sanding sticks from the nail care area of your local beauty supply store. If you're not sure what is a mold line and what is a body line a Google search will help you out. Mold lines will be on near every part. 30 gauge wire is about the largest wire you can get away with for ignition. This is what I use. https://www.radioshack.com/products/wrapping-wire?variant=5717668293. A little harder to find these days but you can still mail order it. Its available in red, blue and white. Be a little more careful with how much glue you use. Get rid of the orange tube glue if you're using it and switch to a medium thickness CA glue like Zap-a-Gap. Apply it with a toothpick for best control. Use white Elmers glue for headlight lenses and other glass installation. It's water soluable and dries clear. Flat paints are softer when dry than gloss. Handling will scuff or damage the paint. So after the paint is dry, add your decals and coat it with clear dullcoat. It will make the handling that goes on during test fits and assembly a little more forgiving. Putting decals over flat paint is always a pain. the decals tend to "silver" and the edge of the decal shows. After the decal is dry a little dullcoat clear over them should prevent this. Over all it's a good piece. In the future, look into gtetting some Bare Metal Foil for the trim and applying a black wash to the grill and openings in the rims. Both will drastically improve the realism of your work. Shoot me a PM if I can help in any way.

It's such a small and low quality photo that there is no way to really see any clues.

Admittedly I had to use Google for the auto ID quiz. I just don't know enough about non-domestic cars to even hazard a guess in most times, but I never used in for RoM. Thanks for doing it as long as you did Harry. I enjoyed them.

I bought this little spring loaded dohickey through Micro Mark. Works great on near any engine.

It's a terrific model. It's not often we see someone take a genre (rat rods in this instance) and turn it on it's ear. And give us something classy and unexpected. Fantastic work.

That is very sharp looking. I like that you stuck with the I6 instead of throwing a generic Chevy V8 in there.