Tommy124

You surely have a point there, Bill. The first kit I dried some days ago (the only one so far) is an old Monogram one from 1984, the thick stuff I like to call "panzer plastic"... Surely needn't worry about anything warping in that, but with modern kits, Tamiya, Hasegawa etc. - they certainly have softer plastic. And I agree on keeping an eye on the process every once in a while, better to be safe than sorry...

I see, thanks... So the complaint is about the wide stripes not being the '68 (SS) stock stripes. However, there are lots of '68 Chevelles to be found with those stripes, so in a way they are "custom stripes", right?

Would anybody mind telling me what the difference between the '68 and '69 stripes is and where the boxart is wrong? I can't seem to find any difference...

I second your opinion. AFAIK "UV-colors" (in the sense of colors requiring UV-light for curing) contain special UV-activators which I doubt are part of modelling paints. That kind of UV-stuff is, for instance, used in paper printing production in order to make sure for the ink to dry instantly without "splashing" - which allows to go for a higher production speed. As to my own experiences... I have used Testors enamels for the first time since the 90's on my current project and was a bit shocked that the curing process actually took around 72 hours. Although the Testors website told me that this is within the usual range for their enamels. As I needed to go for some additionals paint layers and will consider to further use Testors enamels on other projects, I decided to get me a "reasonably priced" food hydrator with a timer. The first test went very well. I left the painted body in the hydrator for around 6 hours at 110 °F and it was touch-dry to such a degree that it could be handled for further working on. So I'm really glad I went for it .

The other lesson was that a shop-owner selling model kits and paints wants people to use paints on their model kits. And I agree to build to please yourself.

Can't go wrong with Tamiya tape, but to me the problem shown above looks like the surface to the white paint was not smooth enough to allow for proper masking. It also helps to apply light coats in the beginning which will help to further "tighten" the masked edge. And I recommend to warm up the tape a little using a hairdryer at medium temperature setting before/ while removing it. Makes it much easier...

Like it, well done!

Well done! This is the first time I notice that this kit's rims have the same "depth" in the front and rear. It should be a little less in the front but why bother, looks great...

Your color choice is "daring" but this combo sure looks good, especially with the customs wheels. I agree with you that this kit is great indeed. I think you did good on the BMF too, and I certainly know what a pain-in-the-BLAH the fender parts are. I ended up making pre-cut BMF stripes. Worked out fine for me. If you don't mind me showing:

Beautiful Vette! Gotta remember that Titanium Gold color. On first sight, that would appear to be a color rather for a more "elegant" car. But it looks extremely good on a sports car, too!

Excellent job on that old kit, congrats!

Thank you, David, Larry, Carl and Steve!

Scale Production have done an excellent transkit based on the AMT kit: https://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Thread&postID=734021#post734021 It‘s sold out for now, but maybe there’ll be another re-release some day...

That's a great green beast! Well done, especially on the trick CF decals...

Great progress on the headlight details! And a bit of a provocation to use those Ingolstadt city plates from the Audi R8 kit... As you might know, Ingolstadt is the Audi production location...

As we discussed and (I think?) agreed in the other thread, no real need to go for ZP primer. ZP base and clearcoats, yes, but I'd agree to stick to Tamiya primer cans until something better or just as good (while cheaper) comes along. The trouble with trying out primers, you only find out about them when it's too late. As regards your build of the NSX, I will be following, I still have the Castrol Mugen version in my stash.

Absolutely... me too. Lights are the "eyes" of a car, if they won't look good, the model is guaranteed not to look "real"...

Nicely said. A lot of good SB work to be seen in this WIP thread, no doubt about that!

As I have been asked about the color: as I mentioned this is Pontiac Verdoro Green by Gravity Colors. That is Gravity Colors Europe. Yes, there has been a lot of confusion about Gravity lately but I can confirm that the colors and customer service as as great as before!

Great result, Ludwig! Top paint job and the interior looks great aswell with that „pearly“ touch!

I bought from the European site several times and I can confirm that both products and customer service are excellent indeed. Btw, I used Pontiac Verdoro Green from them on my last build:

You have a point there...

CobraBird??

That's right. At least in Germany these very same booths come with 2 types of filters. One that is blue on the front and white on the reverse side and behind that there is a greyish one. The blue/ white one is for absorbing the spray mist and the grey one for the fumes. According to the German manual, you can leave the blue/ white one completely if you use an exhaust air hose. That will also increase the performance in suction because the airflow has less resistance.

I used the same stuff first but find that it takes "ages" to dry. That's why I switched to using water-soluble, transparent craft glue. I simply apply that with a brush on the BMF parts which are inside the body and it will dry shortly and hold the BMF in place just fine. After that, I clean the brush with plain water.