Tommy124

First of all, congrats on the COPO. Looking good! As far as the antenna "issue" is concerned, I found the use of "disposable acupuncture spring handle needles" very helpful. I am using those in 0.35 mm diameter and IMHO they look fine in 1/25 scale.

I really like this. A nice choice of color and beautiful wheels. Well done!

Thanks for the explanation, Bill. I have used a similar method for getting small logos etc. and as you said, the outcome depends on the original resolution and the printer's quality. For some of those things printed out on normal paper I have found it helpful to "seal" it with self-adhesive transparent foil, the stuff that is used to protect book covers.

Hi there, I can't see any images...?

Thanks Oliver, appreciated!

Very well done! I have seen other modelers archieve nice results for that kind of "metallic interior" look by using Tamiya Pearl Clear but your method definitely worked out nicely too! Will you reveal the "decal trick" to the others too? Is a about using printouts for patterns?

Great result, really like it! May I ask, has anyone here already built the MPC Bobby Isaac kit? Can't seem to find anything...?

Beautifully done! I really like it!

Yes, the same as you'll ALWAYS have to be, using one for this purpose. It goes without saying that a FH with temperature control and timer should be used. Low temperature setting and frequent control of the plastic's state is mandatory. I guess the paint is not the issue here, as far as I understand, the paint was already on when he bought it, so he'll likely strip off the paint anyway...

Welcome, there's a lot too look and learn here, and LOTS of inspiration to be found!

Thanks for the compliment, Tom!

Sounds like it's working similar to the stuff I am using for stripping paint and cleaning the airbrush. But it's another product obviously: https://www.kremer-pigmente.com/de/methoxypropanol-pm-70920.html I am not using this however for cleaning brushes as it stinks too much. I have a dedicated room for airbrushing (where I'm working with a respirator only) and I do all paint stripping on the outside. But the detail painting is done in-house so this stuff is a no-go there.

Same here!

I figured it was about time to get me some Jo-Han kits. It was my 50th birthday some days ago, but some presents you'll just have to give to yourself. The Javelin is an opened but complete and non-built kit which I managed to get on eBay Germany. The Superbird is mint and boxed with foil, that one came from the States...

Nothing short of a beauty! Very, very well done!

OK Dann, now show us the BUILT one! Joking aside, this looks very real! From my own experience I know that it's not so easy to make them small trolley wheels look good. What did you use for them? Styrene rods cut in slices?

Always nice to see a Fujimi Enthusiast Model finished. You did well on this, congrats! But you should show the V12 too!

Looks great and that color scheme is a welcome change!

Beautiful result, as are your other 32'ers!

I agree, maybe a food dehydrator could be of some use for warming up the plastic in this case. With it's possibility to create a continous and controllable temperature window, I gather this will be more effective than hot water, hairdryer etc.

Always wondered what non- rattle can surface primer was for... Thanks for the tip, I will try this one out. Filling the concave pin marks with regular putty, followed by sanding is such a tedious process imho.

Thanks, David. Guess that's the stuff that heroic restorations are made of? Stripping those old enamels can give you real a hard time. I remember that I simply couldn't strip off the interior paint when I did the resto on my old Maserati Boomerang build, no matter what chemicals I used. I painted some Revell enamels with no primer when I built it around 1990, so the paint had some real long time to eat into the plastic. Fortunately, this is the exception and most paints strip off real fine with the stuff I am using. Thanks to you too, Mr. B..., uh, Gene!

Great model! I wasn't sure about the "bumper pinholes" first but they are correct!

Absolutely agree, great product. I used that primer for covering a body molded in BLACK with no problems:

First, thanks to you ALL for your kind words! I'm happy you like my result. Thanks Hugh! Yes, I gave this quite a bit of thought and got me some white gel pens as I thought this would be the best bet but even the one with the finest tip didn't work out for me. So I tried it old-school, white paint and brush... And it worked. I used a 5/0 brush and Tamiya XF-2 flat white. Apart from a steady hand and a strong enough magnifying glass I think the most important thing is to keep the paint thinned to the right degree and clean the brush constantly because the paint will dry on it quickly and won't allow for precise painting. Thanks, Lee! Those are regular wire end ferrules. Thanks to you too Chris! That is a decal I've taken from a sheet sold by ScaleProduction. It has a lot more Mopar decals on it, plus some Mustang decals and some other US car stuff: https://www.scaleproduction.de/product_info.php?info=p2157_decals-street-racing-musclecars.html As I mentioned, stripping the old decals wasn't easy at all. So I took some photos of my efforts on these. Maybe this is interesting to see for those who like the model. So I'll just post them here: The paint was stripped using my usual chemicals, but the stripes on the roof and on the hood couldn't be removed by that: They were so resilient that I even used a special scalpel blade: But in the end all that helped was heavy and coarse sanding them down: After that the body looked okay and I proceeded with the primer coat: The primer coat was nice but to my surprise the "ghost stripe" on the roof was still visible: So again, SANDING, the hard way: Applying primer in such a way as to have an even coverage on the roof wasn't easy, but it worked out in the end: I then could proceed with the first coat of Plum Crazy: