NOBLNG

Future floor polish makes a good clear coat so I am told.

Except for one loud crack…it’s all peaceful and quiet out there.

Nice work you are doing Evan to fix all the deficiencies in the kit pieces. I like your steering column.👍

Another couple of rounds in the pond and we’ll see what you have to work with.🧐

I like to use 0.020” brass for pinning small parts if possible. I do also have 0.015” and 0.010” phosphor bronze wire that I have used for extremely tiny parts.

You might be getting old and cranky,🤔 but that’s beside the point….neighbours should be respectful. You shouldn’t have to resort to this but a set of these bluetooth beauties might help when it gets real annoying.

I put the first few coats of Createx on my ‘68 Dart. I put on multiple light coats but It really didn’t seem to want to flow into the door and trunk seams. So I hand painted them with some un-thinned paint. More coats to follow.🥵

Ooh…that looks SWEET!👍😎

Things like the badge I mentioned above, I will sometimes strip the chrome, glue it on before any paint and foil it after painting…or use the “foil under paint” method. It depends on how bad the kit chrome is and how much detail there is on it. The Revell badges above were particularly nice so I decided to apply them after paint.😎

Trying to tidy up some loose ends before squirting any paint. I’m using some of the parts from a Revell ‘55 that I have become disillusioned with.🙄 Mainly the door handles and hood emblem. I filed off the cast in AMT emblem, drilled some divots for glue and filed the thickness of the emblems down somewhat. Also using the Revell hood ornament since the AMT piece had a huge sink mark right on the top.😡 The door locks are almost nonexistent (like the interior window cranks and door handles) so I got some 1mm aluminum tube to make new ones. On the bottom I did a trial run on my Polar Lights GTO test mule to guage the looks…I’m ok with that.🙂

All good advice! I too like to drill and pin everything if possible. This Chevrolet badge I plan to install after paint, but it is too shallow to put a pin into. So I drilled three small divots where it will go. I will put a VERY tiny drop of epoxy in the divots and carefully place the emblem. PVA would work also.

Can’t get enough light for precision operations. Pic sez it all.🙂

Ones good…the other wanders a bit.😜

Hi Les. This 3 minute video is geared towards larger paint booths but describes the different types of filter media. I used to use the pleated cardboard framed filters because I got a bunch for free. Now I just use the green fiberglass roll media. I got a dozen of them cut to size cheap from a local supplier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBVZE9C8quw

I don’t know how concerned with accuracy you are Ron, but here is a link to how I modified the hood to be more accurate. Just an FYI in case you are able to find one. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/191238-amt-‘51-chevy-hood-fix/

That you may regret?🥴 I’d wait and get a quality unit.

You won’t regret it!🙂 Cleaning it is the only drawback. With a single action-external mix airbrush like a Paasche or Badger the cleaning required is very simple and easy.

I like that shade of blue on it.👍

Great looking paint and foil work Joe!👍😎

The color looks great on it Gary.👍 I tend to like full fendered rods over fenderless too.😎

Looking good👍 I buy the Tamiya primer in the square bottle, thin it with lacquer thinner and airbrush it. It’s the same primer as the spray cans I believe. I keep a jar of it for my Paasche mixed so I don’t have to clean the cup each time.🙂

Looks like too heavy of a coat in one pass. I haven’t used a spray bomb in a while, but when I did I would start spraying off the model, make a brisk pass over it and stop after I’m past the model. Probably 6”-8” away and multiple light coats.

Since you asked….I would not waste time trying to resurrect it. You could build half a dozen new kits in the time it would take to fix it. Throw it in the parts box or make a demolition derby car out of it. JMO.

Convincingly assembling your model you are said Yoda.

Nice work Eran! I like all the extra accessories you are adding.👍😎