NOBLNG

There is careless and then there is completely stupid…🙄 I was thinking about it last night and came up with the same idea using aluminum. It is top of my to do list when I get home later this week.

Dodge stupidbee.

I really like these sawblades. They make a nice aluminum handle for them, but I just trimmed the shank a touch so they would fit a regular exacto handle. They are like a photo etch blade but far more sturdy.

Yeah, this mitre box has slots that are too wide for my liking. I use it a lot with my razor saw, but have to hold the saw flush to one side or I get a slightly crooked cut.😕 I’ve been meaning to modify it somehow but just never got around to it yet.

Looks to me like they have them?

Week one of the rest of my life started on Sunday.

Up, up and away in my beautiful balloon.

Those “industrial accidents” were not created by the Dremel. They were created by careless operators. The tools function is entirely predictable. I have had minor injuries over the years and I don’t blame the tools. Edit: Lack of proper PPE falls under “careless operators”.

Queue the music!

Yes beautiful paintwork Luke! And so prolific…do you have a conveyor belt running through your paint booth?

That’s cheating!😳

I-pad my expense account.😬

Also, since most rotary tools don’t have an awful lot of torque, multiple light passes are usually better than trying to take too much material out in one pass.

Game of Thrones was a great series to watch.

Cool!😎 This is what the google translate on my iPhone gave me.

The razor saw I mostly use for making square cuts on Evergreen stock in a mitre box. It could be used for long straight cuts like a chop or section job, but I prefer to score the line with a panel scriber then finish the cut with a photo etch saw. The dremel hopefully has a low enough speed that it will not melt the plastic. The abrasive discs I believe will just clog up. For cutting you may need something like saw blades. I mostly use my rotary tool with sanding drums and burrs for shaping. You can always practice on a scrap body especially with the dremel. A slip up with it can quickly do a lot of damage…and not just to the plastic.😬

Likely built by a kid that surmised exhaust is hot so it should be red.

Whiney people usually don’t have anything to whine about.

The squirrels could have returned it when you weren’t looking. They like to mess with you that way….believe me I know!🙄 I think you have that stance looking real good on this one Jim!😎

I like to cover the glass inside and out with a wide piece of Tamiya tape. Trim the tape then fit the glass. You can trace the opening onto the tape from the outside with a fineline pen or pencil to see how much excess could possibly be trimmed. The tape also keeps it from getting scuffed during the fitting process.

The decals really do look great Steve!👍

Much nicer!👍😎

I have two airbrushes. I first bought an Iwata Eclipse. It is a gravity feed, internal mix, two stage airbrush. It should be capable of any and all tasks involved in model building. Disassembly and deep cleaning may be needed occasionally. I used it a few times then bought a Paasche H. I have not used the Iwata since. It is not as delicate and won’t do quite as fine, detailed work as the Iwata, but it is a dirt simple, super easy to use and keep clean workhorse, and nearly indestructible. It can also use either a cup or bottle for a paint reservoir. I don’t doubt that both of these airbrushes will be around longer than I will. I would highly recommend the Paasche as a first or only airbrush to anyone. You won’t find a bad review of it. Just buy one and start spraying. Edit: And buy a compressor with a tank…the bigger the better.

Times are gonna get tough.

Type this into google and you will get a dozen or more threads on the topic (site:modelcarsmag.com what airbrush)