NOBLNG

I just pulled the pic off an old “show us your gluebombs” thread, so I assumed it wasn’t yours, or anyone on here’s build.😳

Does anyone make an accurate version, either styrene or resin?

Get a #5 needle and tip for the Paasche H and you should be good for larger scales. Paasche also has 1oz. and 3oz. bottles for the H which hold a lot more paint than the the cup does when doing those large jobs.

Know your limits and exceed them at your own peril.

Congrats to your sister.

Often I sit down at my model bench with big plans and then they don’t materialize.

Great looking Bronco!👍

Awesome!😎👍

Excellent work! Your weathering is spot on! 👍

Great idea and beautiful execution!😎👍

Steven’s next completed build after planting his whole yard with marijuana.🤪

Probably not very old, but here are the tube glues that I have.🤷‍♂️

Picked these up at a local flea market, both kits for $30. I checked and the Audi is complete, but unfortunately the engine and drivetrain are assembled and unpainted.😕 The Mack is unstarted but had one bag of parts open and one sealed. It is the original issue (T535)🙂 I assume it is complete from a preliminary look.

This!🥵

Future floor polish makes a good clear coat so I am told.

Except for one loud crack…it’s all peaceful and quiet out there.

Nice work you are doing Evan to fix all the deficiencies in the kit pieces. I like your steering column.👍

Another couple of rounds in the pond and we’ll see what you have to work with.🧐

I like to use 0.020” brass for pinning small parts if possible. I do also have 0.015” and 0.010” phosphor bronze wire that I have used for extremely tiny parts.

You might be getting old and cranky,🤔 but that’s beside the point….neighbours should be respectful. You shouldn’t have to resort to this but a set of these bluetooth beauties might help when it gets real annoying.

I put the first few coats of Createx on my ‘68 Dart. I put on multiple light coats but It really didn’t seem to want to flow into the door and trunk seams. So I hand painted them with some un-thinned paint. More coats to follow.🥵

Ooh…that looks SWEET!👍😎

Things like the badge I mentioned above, I will sometimes strip the chrome, glue it on before any paint and foil it after painting…or use the “foil under paint” method. It depends on how bad the kit chrome is and how much detail there is on it. The Revell badges above were particularly nice so I decided to apply them after paint.😎

Trying to tidy up some loose ends before squirting any paint. I’m using some of the parts from a Revell ‘55 that I have become disillusioned with.🙄 Mainly the door handles and hood emblem. I filed off the cast in AMT emblem, drilled some divots for glue and filed the thickness of the emblems down somewhat. Also using the Revell hood ornament since the AMT piece had a huge sink mark right on the top.😡 The door locks are almost nonexistent (like the interior window cranks and door handles) so I got some 1mm aluminum tube to make new ones. On the bottom I did a trial run on my Polar Lights GTO test mule to guage the looks…I’m ok with that.🙂

All good advice! I too like to drill and pin everything if possible. This Chevrolet badge I plan to install after paint, but it is too shallow to put a pin into. So I drilled three small divots where it will go. I will put a VERY tiny drop of epoxy in the divots and carefully place the emblem. PVA would work also.