NOBLNG

Good info in that thread! I just bought these Vallejo ones the other day, and they are very good quality (made in Spain) and properly sharpened. I would not try melting the holes either, it will make a mess.? What kind of paint is that? If it’s laquer or enamel the canopy glue shouldn’t harm it.

That is looking extremely, radically cool!

This is what I use because I have it. It is most likely a watered down PVA of some type.

Very strong, especially if you can compress the joint slightly. You will actually see melted styrene oozing out. They are a solvent, so actually “weld” the styrene together. They dry quicker than the old Testors tube glue. The plastic melts and joins almost instantly, but it has to evaporate before the joint becomes structurally sound. It is very thin and will not fill any gap. It’s best to fit the parts then apply the glue...it will wick along the seam. I use it for probably 90% of my work.

Finished up the engine for the Model A. I wired it, shaved down the carb adapter plate and made a new blower belt tensioner. Also gave the pulleys a sort of anodized look with some clear red over the flat aluminum.

I have the same problem with super thin CA glue. There is NO WAY I can apply it from the bottle. First the nozzle is usually plugged and I have to open it with a pin. Then it will dispense way too much. I usually put a couple of drops in a bottle cap and use an applicator made from a thin piece of wire. I also made an applicator for the kicker from a large sewing needle that I ground the tip off of to make a tiny fork. It would likely work better than the wire for the glue also.? You can most likely buy special applicators at a hobby shop? The Tamiya extra thin quick set will get your parts stuck together quite fast, but takes a fair while to completely evaporate and gain full strength. The medium or extra thick CA glues are easier to manage but also dry slow unless an accelerator is used. What type of joints are you needing it to dry quickly for? Things like door handles, mirrors and wipers, or....?

I had though of that, but didn’t think braided fishing was available in an aluminum or metal color? The leaders are far too rigid to wrap around a drum. I imagined it could be sourced out somewhere. Here is a link to everything you might want to know about cable and more. https://www.hanessupply.com/media/pdfs/tmc-by-section/01-Wire-Rope.pdf

Yes, if you get a big drop on the end of it, just touch it to the inside of the bottle neck to drain off the excess. It works very well.

I figure it would be late 80’s to early 90’s. It looks like 700r4 tranny which I believe were produced between ‘82 and ‘93. GM was also using HEI in this era, so that works for me.?

Not a quote, but what movie is this from?

American Graffiti.

Thanks Guys. For simplicity’s sake, I think I will snip the coil wire and go for the after market coil-in-cap electronic ignition look. So if one was to use the kit distributor on the blown engine version, the vacuum canister should be removed.

I have only built one supercharged engine before and never wired it. I am working on the Revell ‘29 model A roadster and have started wiring the engine. I can’t seem to find any pictures anywhere that shows a coil mounted. Can I put it anywhere? Does a blown engine even use a conventional coil and distributor? Forgive my ignorance, but I think a poorly wired engine may look worse than no wiring. Any advice appreciated. Edit: I’ve used a shapeways distributor which is a touch large, so I will have to modify the firewall slightly. Thanks in advance. Greg.

Quite the fertile imagination there Dax. It never fails to amaze me. Keep up the good work!

You could likely make one out of a piece of rod...smooth or threaded? Chuck it in a drill and take a file or grinder to it.

Makes me want to start on one of my T-birds. Thanks for posting that.

Ok, I cut up a USB cable. It has two small and two large wires. They are tin plated I believe, so shouldn’t need any painting. The larger ones are the same size as my previous copper one. That works out to 0.024” finished diameter, which would be a 5/8” cable in 1:1 (assuming a 1/25 scale model). The smaller one works out to 0.016” finished, which would be a 7/16” cable.

Really nice work. That rusty bed looks real!

Outstanding restoration you accomplished on that glue bomb.?

Super nice job on this. I too love the paint job, and that view from the rear is awesome!

This is the lowrider kit. The paint job could have used some polishing, but I am pretty sure it would have wound up in the purple pond instead.? Other than the horrible tail lights that I replaced, it went together quite well.Paint is Tamiya LP-47 and LP-38. Build thread here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/132921-64-chevy-not-too-low-rider/

I recommend getting a dial caliper. They are super easy to read and calibrate, and can be had for about $20. and up. You also don’t have the expense or reliability issues of the batteries.

Thanks for spotting the typo. I don’t have the fly tying wire and I’m not 100% sure it comes in a small enough size. That is just what I read on another website and may be worth searching if someone was in need of larger amounts of cable. This copper one is made using six strands of the Cat 5 cable, each of which is .007” diameter. The darker one is the picture hanging wire. Finished diameter of the cable is 0.023”.

I didn’t know what to use for cable on my winch so I tried some elastic thread that I hoped would look like synthetic rope. I then switched to some picture hanging wire (.034” diameter) that I had. It looks better but it’s a little out of scale. After I had it permanently mounted I figured out how to make a more accurately scaled one by twisting the copper strands out of some CAT 5 cable which came out to .024” diameter. After a bit of paint it looks pretty good. I just discovered on another website that fly tying wire also comes in these super small diameters and comes in a tin plated style which forms easily like the copper, but would not require painting.

Finished the bumpers for the Jeepster.