NOBLNG

So far so good!?

Could you use a straight pin or an exacto blade to scratch through the paint down to the primer to simulate a crack?

Nope! I just put on a brand new blade too.

Well I got the engine mounted. I also built another crossmember under the t/c adapter. These mounts weren’t easy because the tabs on the engine are staggered front to rear and at different heights!? If I do another engine swap I will grind them off if they are not nice and put my own tabs on...or make a motor plate.

Fine work. Very fine!

Looks real nice...almost like mine!? I imagine you stretched the frame also? Do you have a build thread on it?

I fabbed up a makeshift t/c adapter on the drill press out of evergreen and stole the 205 transfer case from the Moebius F-100 kit. I boxed the front section of the frame with 0.010 styrene, since it can now be seen with the hood open. I fiddled last night for quite a while trying to figure out how to hold the engine and trans in place while making some kind of mounts. I came up with this idea this morning when I realized the top of the intake manifold is pretty much level with the top of the fenders. ? I was worried for a bit about the starter being in the way of the front driveshaft, but it looks like there is plenty of clearance. Likewise, I should have lots of room for a radiator and cooling fan. I guess I would not have had to remove the skid plate since I don’t really need to move it forward, but it sure does make it easier to work on.?

Cool in place. It only takes half a minute.

I discovered two ways of notching out a little square for making motor mounts. One way is with a hobby knife. The second is by melting a small piece of metal into the plastic and then trimming off the “melted flash”. I am pointing to my new preferred method!?

I thought that would look weird, sectioned and not chopped...but it works! Nice!

Looking good. Nice job on re-scribing those panel lines. I usually forget about those.

Made a mold to duplicate a NP205 transfer case. While I was at it I figured I would also do a cooling fan and some headlight lenses.

Nice, that is the most realistic rust I’ve seen yet!

Sweeet!

Nice! I recently took a class on resin casting. I did this mold for the transmission in the Revell ‘68 Charger kit from the left over silicone. I want to steal one engine/trans for a project which leaves me 1 transmission short.? You would think Revell could afford to give you two gearboxes? Especially since these are separate... an auto and a manual would be nice. That said, it is a rewarding feeling when you pull off a nice casting!

Every time I look at this I see new details, like the folding rear seats. Excellent work all around!

Very nice clean looking Chevelle.

Looking real fine. I have 4 kits of these early 60’s Chevys. They are among my favourite cars.

Very interesting.

The body is still in the dehydrator. I will let that sprue glue dry real good before trying to sand it. In the meantime I painted and wired the engine. I also added a dipstick.

Google Jeep body designations and click on the quadratec site. You will get a list and description of them all. I would link if if knew how to on this iPad.? I figured it out?! https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-73.htm

A “TJ” is this body style (1997-2006) which returned to round headlights, but the turn signal lights are now mounted in metal fenders rather than in the grill. This was the first utility Jeep with a coil spring suspension. They are very capable off road vehicles. The suspension articulation is something that is just not attainable with leaf springs...not to mention a much smoother ride.

Well I haven’t seen that one...what else have you been looking at??LOL