NOBLNG

Those all look like viable projects to me.??

I agree! The lengths Kurt went to, to get this project where it is are amazing. Far, far more diligence than I have. And it looks fabulous to boot!

I know what you mean about the frustration! I have at least 3 builds going on at the same time so I can walk away when needed. this is my first and about the fourth attempt at a rear drive shaft. I am happy with the brass one. Thanks to Dennis for the idea!

You are CRAZY Jim!??

Thanks everyone. If the sun ever pops out here, I will get An outdoor pic.

That is sacrilegious putting a Dodge engine in a Pontiac! LOL?. Got any more pics?

Me too. It would go perfect on a model idea I have cooking in my head!

Pete W. (peteski) just posted a link in my thread to this site. They have some cone sanding sticks. https://www.flex-i-file.com/

They have a lot of neat stuff on that site. Yes this would work similar to those files, but you can get more wrap- around with the manual method. The flexible sanding film would work better on inside curves for sure. It doesn’t clog up very easily either.

I mostly use Tamiya extra thin quick set (because I’m a very impatient person), and I like the little brush on the lid. I have found it very “aggressive”. I mean that if I apply it to a very thin part that is under any stress at all., the part will snap. Example: trying to make a sharp curve with small half-round styrene to a body for a vinyl top molding.

Some of you old hats may know this already, but I discovered this trick while sanding a differential that I modified. It works great on exhaust tubing seam lines too. Cut a 6” long or so narrow strip of your favourite sandpaper. Clamp one end solid somehow and hold onto the other end. Hold the part being sanded in your other hand and work it up and down the strip. You can vary the tension on the paper and also the angle of the paper from nearly flat to a 180 degree wrap. Works great for blending things back to round after scraping mold lines too!

Woe that is a far cry from what you started with!

Which engine is in this kit AMT1035M/12?

You might try a knife sharpener like this for shaving the styrene?

I just tried a little sample. I think this is bigger than you require but the technique might work. I made this from two pieces of 1/16”x 3/16” filed to a wedge (this could be 1 piece but I didn’t have the right thickness) and a piece of 1/8” half round.

Nice colour. I love these cars!

Welcome back. Very cool looking project!

I like it! That colour would definitely suit the time period I believe.

Thanks. It is Tamiya LP-46 pure metallic red lacquer over red oxide primer.

I wanted to carpet the wheelwells also and didn’t think it would conform well. Also, it is a little light to go with a black interior. With the side windows installed, you really can’t see the interior very well. I may use the carpet on something else?

Yes, It is basically a curb side kit. There is no topside to the engine.

Really nice! I have a monogram’64 GTO I am slowly working on. I hope mine turns out this well.

This was a nice kit to build. The rear wheels wouldn’t sit straight and the side marker lights could have been filed down a bit. Other than that it went together very well.

This one is done now. Paint is Tamiya LP-46 (lacquer) not X-46 as I stated in my first post.

Thanks Dennis. I will look for some tubing for this trick. Drilling a hole straight down the solid styrene, even a little ways, is tough. I do need a double cardan joint at the top so I will check all my other 4x4 kits to see if any have one that looks better than my scratch job!?