NOBLNG

It looks like you got nice even coverage. No runs that I can see. There is definitely some kind of debris on the surface though. Is it dust settled on the surface after it’s dried, or is it stuck to the paint? If is is in the paint, try gman’s advice above.

I believe aluminum requires a zinc-chromate primer for best results. I don’t know if there are any newer products?

It got Lt. Dan from Forrest Gump in a little over 20 questions. Then I showed it to my wife who tried Elvis Presley and it guessed Steve McQueen.

I made a mold last night and today tried casting some accessories for a Buick nailhead. They didn’t turn out too good due to some air bubbles. I think I made the mold opposite to what I should have... ie: the sprues for the vent holes should have been added to the second half. Oh well, it’s my first attempt at delicate parts. I,ve done another pour, so we’ll see if it turns out better.

Wow! This is coming along fabulously!

Yes. And very nicely.

Pro...potential rip off?

What John said!?

This is the J-B I used. It sets in 4 minutes according to the tube. I leave it a fair bit longer.

I second the J.B. recommendation. It sands very nicely!

That’s enough to completely pack 2-1/2 forty foot shipping containers.

Cool! I am wanting to build a vacuum chamber also. Any plans on what to use for a vacuum unit?

You could possibly try putting it in a food dehydrator?

I snapped a couple pics of my Buddy’s 1ton last night.

If you want to research a particular model you’re interested in, do it this way.

Great minds think alike!

Pretty tough to find pics of a 3/4 ton. Most are of updated setups. I’m not sure exactly what the photo is of? It came up when I googled GMC 3100 suspension. The schematic is off a spring supplier’s site. They only list leafs on 4x4’s, but I don’t think that is correct? They each show a different rear shackle setup. There is a discussion on this site about springs, but no pics. Maybe someone else has first hand knowledge? https://talk.classicparts.com/threads/c10-c20-differances.8243/

It looks like a lot of extra length, but the wheel opening shape gives the illusion of a lot more. These are ‘54s.

There have been a few threads on this recently. I have not used a Badger, but they are highly regarded by some members here. I have the Paasche H and love it. It came with both the cup and bottles. I find the bottles easier to clean than the cup. Plus, I leave primer in one bottle (glass bottles that I bought separately) all the time and lacquer thinner in another for cleaning the airbrush. Paint can be left in the bottle for multiple coats, whereas the cup needs to be cleaned after every use. The smaller jars have the same thread as model master paint jars, so empty paint jars can be recycled.

I was going to take the front cover/oil filter/fuel pump assembly from the V6 and graft it onto a SBC, but the block is quite undersized and the heads don’t look right. The seller I got the ‘69 Riv from was also selling a separate 430 engine...so I bought it too!?

You are correct Scott. The 350 design is based on the aluminum 215 and preceded the big block. They may look similar, but they are not. Edit: But for the purpose of my model, I can easily make the 430 look like a 350.?

I don’t know if any kits came with that, .but it would be easy to fab?

I have just recently started researching Buick’s. I came across a picture of that and just assumed it was something new or custom. I had no idea that it was from 1967! COOL!

I just ordered a ‘69 Riviera off e-bay. This would have the 430 I believe. I found a chart online with engine dimensions, and if it is correct, the dimensions only vary by an 1-1/2” at most...undetectable to the eye at 1/25th scale.? I will check my GSX engine to see which components look best. Thanks everyone!?

Yes it has become charged. The wash should fix it? I have had panel line accent “jump” off the brush to the model also. I wipe it with a used dryer fabric softener sheet to reduce the static charge before applying accent.