NOBLNG

Here is one I did a while back. The top seams are 0.10” x0.30” strip if I recall and the chrome dividing trim is 0.030 half round that I sanded to a half-oval shape. I sprayed a gloss black lacquer on first so the foil would stick to it, then cleared the entire car. Finally I put a coat of Tamiya XF-86 flat clear on the roof, spayed from a distance to get the texture.

Could that stuff be airbrushed on... or just not worth the extra effort?

After taking the summer off, I decided I needed to do a real quick build to get myself motivated again. I figured I would pick a model that I really wasn’t too enamoured with so I could bang it out quickly... no wiring, no corrections, no worrying about flaws, minimal sanding. Just slap some paint on and glue it together...So I picked the Revell ‘68 Charger special edition. The first thing I notice is the remains of vinyl roof trim...Well that has to go! And all those mold lines too. Now I’m thinking a vinyl top might look good? And I’ve got some other wheels I’d like to use...sigh.?

Sorry to hear thar Carl. As others have said, feel free to hang around the forum. You can comment on or critique my builds anytime. Best wishes, Greg.

Yes, Superclean has begun to etch my pyrex containers also. If it’s not a rare kit, it may be cheaper to buy another one rather than all the different ineffective strippers??

AMT did a ‘65 Coronet 2dr. Edit: Just googled them both and they are quite different.☹️

Do you like any one of the airbrushes over the others yet?

Really nice detailing on this one. It looks very realistic!

I bet that pineapple juice stings!? I have some recurring small floaters that I attribute to giving myself welding flashes over the years. I also had one large one a couple years ago that went away on its own.

Hey, Thanks! I just might have to join that forum.?

Thanks, not important though. Someone on another forum was asking and I figured someone here would know.

Careful...that little fan attachment may be a little aggressive and you may wind up with paint everywhere.? This tip on mine works plenty good.

Buy a cheap battery operated paint mixer. No more paint on the jar lids means no frozen lids and much easier cleanup.

Can anyone tell me what this dash is from? Thanks, Greg.

You should see this guy’s uni....Uhh, well it started out life as a Unimog.?

This is what I use for 1/25th. The insulation from the cat5 cable makes nice boots and the 30 ga wire fits nicely into it.

How about gluing some very tiny (.020-.030?) half round to the body and then Blending it in using filler on either side of it?

That looks fantastic!

I just have mine hanging on three hooks, but I certainly don’t have a lot compared to some of you. I have made a list of everything though so I don’t wind up searching for Something I don’t have.

That is a really nice colour! You will love it! Is it manual or auto? I have a 2013 PRHT and find it a thrill to drive. Here’s a link to the Miata/MX-5 site. https://forum.miata.net/vb/

So I’m watching “Cars that Made America: part3” and they call this a Chevy. It doesn’t look like one to me, at least not a production one, but I can’t seem to find a pic online of this car. Am I wrong or did they goof? Anyone know what this is?

Looking real good so far Dennis! pm sent.

Here is a pic of the original floor in my ‘71. It's of the underside, but you can see that there are six raised ribs, and the outer two are slightly wider than the rest.

You likely know any that have been used should be turned upside down and sprayed till propellant comes out in order to clear the tube Of paint. Then I would store them on their side or upside down.

I could see this as a possible cause, or the manufacturer defect? I know the OP surely stirred it well enough, but one of the best things I’ve bought is one of those battery operated mixers. It does a great job and best of all it keeps the paint off the lids, which tends to “glue” them in place after a while. This is why I stopped shaking all paints other than aerosols.