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NOBLNG

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Everything posted by NOBLNG

  1. Try a soft bristle toothbrush? To keep it from happening again, you could place a strip of TP on top of them while spraying. You should have plenty on hand by now, and you can always recycle it.? An ounce of prevention...
  2. As long as the playdoh doesn’t get eaten by the resin it should work. I did cast a couple headlight lens using Silly putty and bondic.
  3. Got some paint on it.
  4. Well Jay can scratch that one off his bucket list!?
  5. Sorry?. Yes, the chrome has to be scraped of for the glue to take hold. I like Tamiya paints. Laquers are more durable and dry quicker but the fumes are nasty! Priming is definitely required in my mind, especially on bodies. For glue, I mostly use Tamiya extra thin quick set for all close fitting joints. For slightly looser joints, good old Testors tube glue, but it dries real slow. Epoxy is another good choice for looser joints or joining dissimilar materials. A lot of guys like super glue, but I rarely use it. For starters, don’t try to achieve perfection, it will only discourage you.
  6. Welcome. Yes, yes, yes, yes, and be patient! Someone will be along shortly to give you a better answer.?
  7. She’s a beauty! Is that all Wicked Colors paint? What clear do you use over it?
  8. Looking real nice! I love that red too.
  9. I primed the body for the Amt ‘36 ford. I hate black plastic! It’s very hard to see any flaws until a coat of primer goes on. I don’t know why they made the roof a separate part on this kit? That said, I think this body is shaping up nicely. The sprue glue I mixed up worked well.
  10. I’ve never done a real wood one. Try typing this in google. “site:modelcarsmag.com wooden bed”
  11. I found these centerlines and tires in my parts box. I don’t recall what they might be from, but I think they look OK. The kit tires always seem to look a bit small to me. I figured I better get the stance right before painting everything. I think I finally got it right in the third pic. Comments welcome.
  12. Nice! I like that look!
  13. Nice looking Camaro! Yes, putting the engine and subframe in last seems to be the trick for these cars.
  14. Boy, that thought has crossed my mind a number of times over the years! Thankfully 99.9% of the time I take a break and re-think that scenario. ?
  15. Does everyone have a portal to another dimension on or near their work bench, or is it just me? I pryed off a part with my hobby knife that I had incorrectly installed and when it “popped” off, I heard it hit the inside corner of my workspace then.....? I hope whoever is on the other side sends it back soon!?
  16. Those look really nice! I bought a cheap set of chinese(?) ones from my local hobby shop. Only one holds the bit straight and they are all poorly threaded and hard to tighten.
  17. Interesting colour combo.
  18. Cool!?
  19. Looking good so far Tom! I separated the front subframe/engine section and glued it in place after the tub and floorpan were in place.
  20. Thanks all. The lens fit quite loose actually but the bezel will cover it. And by all means, feel free to steal it...I’d be honoured! ? Maybe I should have put this in the tips and tricks section.
  21. Thanks. Beats the heck out of the decals I think!
  22. Get a model tow truck and start your own wrecking yard!?
  23. Sounds like a great idea! ?
  24. This kit just has decals for the side Marker lights. I decided to make some real ones. I glued a small chunk of a busted amber lens I found to a piece of sprue and turned it down in my drill. I drilled a .098” hole in the fender and glued a piece of thin styrene on the inside for backing. I was going to paint the edge of the amber with silver sharpie or molotow, leaving it a little thicker than the fender. While laying in bed last night, I came up with an idea for a better bezel. I wrapped a piece of .020” wire around a .058” drill bit and snipped off some wraps with my nippers. By chance this fits almost perfectly in the .098” hole, so I filed the amber down so it sits just below the surface, leaving the bezel just proud of the surface. A pinhole in the backing allows me to push it out, to be re-installed after paint. The rears should be easier, since I have clear red sprue to use.
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