NOBLNG

I finally figured out what to do with the front axle on this one. I want to lower it substantially, but I don’t like the typical scarily raised suicide mount system. I found a great 1:1 project online that I more or less copied. I started making some wishbones, then discovered that I had some from a Revell ‘29A that would only need a bit of modification. I still might use my scratch built ones. I think It’s low enough now in the front and I just need to raise the rear a touch to get a neutral or very slight positive rake. Pics tell the story.

Thanks Jim. The wheels are actually going to be resin copies that I’ve made, so I’m doing my own mounting system.?

Women possess two things that I greatly admire.

Liar, liar, pants on fire is what my sister said when I told her she was ugly.

The MonteCarlo I mentioned above also does not have a separate pan and is a Chevy transmission. Chevy big and small blocks have the same bell housing bolt patterns which of course is different from the Buick/Olds/Pontiac version.

Good looking models can actually be made, with enough dedication, from kits that are sub-standard.

First step when building a new model is to get rid of the cellophane.

Improves your memory, or your feelings of anxiety, or your sexual performance, or a host of other perceived ailments claims the infomercial.

I have a cheap aluminum mitre box. The slot is a LOT wider than my razor saw, so I have to hold the blade against one side with my finger while cutting in order to get a decent cut. Even then, I use a piece of square bar with sandpaper attached, against the end of the mitre box, to square up any cuts that need to be perfect.

The AMT ‘70 Monte Carlo SS454 has one in 1/25.

The only issue I had with the lowrider kit is that the tail lights are horrible. They are too big, too thick and not evenly shaped. I wound up scratch building mine. Otherwise it is a really nice kit.

You can also trace the tire profile onto a piece of wide masking tape. Cut the tire section out and use the remainder as a pattern for the rough cut. Then like others have said, wrap some sandpaper around a suitable sized cylinder to smooth the edges.

You just don’t need as big of a magnifying glass.

Out you can go from the closet??

“Man has not evolved an inch from the primordial slime that spawned him“

Fury?

If my info is correct, the T-10 has nine side cover bolts whereas the Muncie only has seven.

DNA research makes it a lot tougher to be a serial killer.

Not technically model car work, but I replaced the original relief valve (40ish max) on my converted paint pressure tank that I use for casting resin parts with an adjustable one. It will now hold the 60psi needed.

It’s pretty uniform, so tell everyone it’s tinted bedliner….I did my entire 1:1 Jeepster in it.?

Did absolutely nothing model related today so far….

Yes, thanks. I believe it to be a Muncie M-20 or M-21.

They’re already here.? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhND7Mvp3f4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azXBjyE9dOI

Cool video on the GMC 302 six. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MRPg2yWxS0&t=192s