Rich Chernosky

Both models are a masking and decal challenge, but it looks like you mastered it. Good job...on both.

Jim...I built this kit and it is clearly a mistake on the instruction sheet. Trevor is correct and go with carbon or paint it semi-black with a little silver added. Race cars are changed from race to race and placement of smaller details is often left up to the artist. Model companies are never perfect so use your judgement. The kit goes together well and makes a nice model. Don't let this slow you down. Enjoy yourself. Look forward to your build.

Ken this was truly a labor of love..and I love it. Followed your WIP and picked up many tips, for when I build mine. I have seen a few builds of this kit but I must say yours tops the list. Very well done.

Dave....this was a joy to follow and even better to see it finished. Your skills and ingenuity are well show cased in this model. Congratulations on a very successful project.

John...I think this is one of your finer efforts. Followed your WIP as you know. Man!!...that paint really shines. For a quickie project this is outstanding.

Did the bodywork and painted this awhile back. Ti8me to finish it. This is Nissan's R381 coupe which was a test version of their highly successful R381 group 7 machine which won the Japan GP in 1968. Not much information on the web although several companies make models of this car in various scales. This one is 1/20 and is made by Eidai and imported into the USA by AHM. Color is Tamiya TS7 racing white. Several working features include the steering, opening doors and rear deck and the kit was motorized. The original R380 had and inline 6 motor by Prince and it was later swapped out for a 5.5 litre Chevy V8 in the R382. Later versions (R383) used Nissans own V-12. More comments on the model in the picture captions. Comments welcome. I chose to go with the kit engine even though it is totally wrong. Too much work to find a suitable 1/20 Chevy V8 and Hewland transmission. I has a bit of interesting detail but the model will be display with the cover closed. Thise wonderful working gullwing doors. The hinge had to be re-worked and much filling and sanding to get them to fit. They work quite well though and stay shut. Side veiw. Much fitting was done to get the body to this point. Extra tabs glued on, pins fitted. That latch a the rear works and hold the cover down tight. Rear veiw shows the hydraulically operated split wing which was a feature of the R381 can am. It was never raced in the Can-am as working wings were banned. The original car had dive plane type wings at the front but wern't included in the kit. I would have omitted them anyway as I didn't like the looks. Front suspension had to be lowered by almost 3mm. Ther battery box slid up into the chassis from the bottom and held the front suspension and wheels. Not very well engineered BTW. My whole tribe of Nissan R380's. In the back Tamiya's version of the 381 open top car in 1/18, The R380 6 cyl car in 1/16 by Eidai/Grip, yellow group 7 v12 version (R383) by Otaki in 1/28 scale and the same in 1/64 diecast by Tomica.

Mark...I had exactly the same problem with mine. Cutting the front and rear decals into 3 pieces solved some of the installation problems for me. Looks like you have suffered through it OK. This looks good and I think some of the yellow shows on the real car so you should be OK there too. It took me two tries on the Hot Wheels car so you can expect some of the same issues with the decals there too. Good luck, this is a great project so far.

A good coat of wax works for me. Do both sides. In some cases for heavier scratches dip it in some Future. There is a product that's called "Looks Like Glass" that is even better than Future. Its actually made to re-purpose glass.

Really nice job on this kit Thomas. You nailed that red color. And amazing decal work...especially over the front louvers. The first time (and only time) I saw a Stratos in person I fell in love with it. A worthy addition to your collection..indeed. Thanks for the tip on TS101. I have been eyeballing it at my LHS and now know its worth the purchase.

Simon...from my earliest days of modeling to now...I have always enjoyed making things work. One of my pet peeves is non-steering wheels. If it looks like it will work I will give it a shot as was the case with this kit. Mclarens just seem to look good in orange....for some unknown reason. <G> Thanks for the comment and compliment.

This is Revell of Germany's 1/24 Mclaren 570S. Kit is mostly box stock except for the hinged and opening doors. What a nice little kit that went together without too many fitment issues. This kit has a wonderful v-8 twin turbo engine that as many pieces. Very well detailed except someone forgot to take a picture. It is visible through the clear rear deck but just barely. Color on this is a custom mix of Tamiya X-26 clear orange (80%) and X-27 clear red (20%) over Mr Color SM209 super copper. More comments in the picture captions. Completed car on its wheels and in the sun. Just a hint of the copper color shows through her in this light. rear view and the carbon fibre decals (kit issue) really show. This side. Wheels were sprayed Tamiya X-18 then highlighted with a chrome marker. Door fit was exceptional and the kit gave the option of either closed or open. I chose both. Drivers side door open. Making the hinge and getting it to work properly were almost more trouble than it was worth. Magnets hold the doors closed. Interior was very nice on this kit and "someone" probably should of taken a picture of that also...sigh. Comments welcome.

Peter, what a fantastic job. I did this kit a few years back and mine was mostly stock with some extra PE detail. But you went way beyond that and turned out an incredible model. Congrats on all the hard work. Yah...I know how the Whittingtons and John DeLorean earned their money.

Dave...this is turning out to be a real masterpiece. The paint,the shape, the wheels...everything looks spot on.

Nice color combo for this Beemer. Really like the interior and the color suits this car well

A very nice model Pierre. Up to your usual standards...excellent. Really like the driver figure. You have another talent which is painting figures...an artform all by itself.

John..thanks for another good "tip". A word of caution. Be careful about combining Tamiya's LP and TS lines of paint. I decant a lot of Tamiya TS sprays. One time I was a little low on TS29 semi black so I added some of the LP semi to it. The resulting gelatinous goo was totally unusable. I have sprayed TS13 over dried LP colors with no adverse effects but I still think some caution is advised. BTW how white is the Zero paints brilliant white? Brighter than TS26?

V-E-R-Y nice collection Rex. My favorite has to be that Cougar II. I feel your pain with the move. I did that about 7 months ago. 11 cases with over 1000 models. Took almost a month just to repair all the casaulties. And I only moved 18 miles. The best of luck to you.

John..been following this WIP. You picked the right project for a stress free build. I did about 5 of these and they were fun. But wait...I picked up a cool tip from you. Holding assembled wings for painting has always been a problem for me. Never thought of using one of those clamps ( I got a few) to hold them. Thanks and good luck on your project. Its coming along great and should be an awesome model.

Like this a lot. Beautiful build. I have this set of decals, got to get around to doing mine. Thanks for the inspiration.

Silvering of decals is when the clear edge of the decal shows. It is supposed to be clear and match the background. Flat paint has a very slight texture and decals don't stick well to it. Kinda like scotch tape on a dusty concrete floor. Silvering most often occurs on flat paint but it can happen on any surface. Depends on the decal and the glue used.

Excellent work. The paint and decals are very sharp. And welcome to the forum Damien