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Plowboy

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Everything posted by Plowboy

  1. Tamiya Dull Red may be another option. The top and interior on this model are painted with it. You may want to hit it with Dull Cote to make it completely flat as it has just a touch of sheen to it.
  2. I buy mine online and at least three cans at a time. Clear the same way. It doesn't get much more convenient than that. I used to use Plasti Kote and Dupli Color. But, being someone that builds custom models, I was always dealing with preventing the ghosting issues. I would have to spray several mist coats of primer and paint. Even then, I would have to be concerned when it came time to spray clear. Even with all of those precautions, I've experienced ghosting well after the model was finished. Barely visible. But, still there. Now that I've switched to Tamiya, I no longer have those issues. I don't have to mist on the primer, use a sealer beforehand or do a test spray. I can spray as much as I want with no ghosting or crazing issues because it's formulated for styrene. For me, using automotive primers and others that aren't formulated for styrene was like banging my head against the wall. It felt so much better when I quit.
  3. It kinda sounds like your paint blushed or the lacquer thinner in the paint crazed the styrene slightly. It would also help to post a photo.
  4. Did you spray over bare styrene or primer?
  5. Neither do I. I can spray anything over it and I never have to worry about having issues. The last can of Dupli Color primer I used went on rougher than a night in jail! So, I switched. I'll still use Dupli Color paint from time to time. But, I won't use their primer anymore.
  6. These are from the Revell '67 Corvette Roadster. Close. But, no lug nut detail.
  7. OK. And they even have the spinners to go with them. They're not a match either. I'm thinking the exact wheel may be on a diecast.
  8. Not them. Those have a hub with fewer and thicker spokes.
  9. Ummm...I didn't say it was. You can't learn how to use a hammer without driving nails. ?
  10. That's a sharp looking old Chevy Steve! The flat red paint looks perfect on it and the stance is right on point! Do you have any photos with the hood on?
  11. I'm thinking this is the right answer. I know I've seen them in a kit.
  12. I switched to Tamiya only a couple or more years ago and haven't looked back. I primer every single part right down to the coil and distributor. I can easily get two builds out of one can. So, I figure I have 5-6 dollars in getting a model in primer. To me, it's worth that to not have to worry about having issues such as this. Not to mention it's the best primer I've ever used. Beats them all hands down! Even the original Plasti Kote. The new by Valspar is garbage. Saving a few dollars doesn't always save a few dollars. Sometimes, it costs you. I bet right now you would gladly fork over the extra money for Tamiya. So, why not do it always? If the cost is an issue, just use it on the bodies and use the cheap stuff on the rest.
  13. That is a wicked cool Cutlass!! I really like how it has a subtle, but punch you in the face look! Pro streets may be out of style. But, I still love them! How could anyone look at this and not think, WOW!!!
  14. I got a few more small things done. Sometimes, the small things can make a big difference. As I was studying the side profile, I noticed that the hood as well as the crease in the side looked like it was nosing up and I didn't like the way it looked. Also, there were the big gaps between the hood and grille. So, I took off a mm or one and half from the front of the hood and faded it out to the rear. This eliminated the gap between the hood and headlight surrounds and substantially reduced the gap between the center of the hood and grille. While I was eliminating gaps, I decided to fill in the front of the hood and extend the raised portion to the bottom of the hood. Some may not notice the difference in the side profile. But, to me, there's a big difference. And now that I see the wheels in one color, I've decided to stick with them. I may paint the hubcaps with Mica Silver instead of going with chrome. I filled in the section below the tailgate and modified it to more resemble the full scale. I'm thinking I'm going to leave the rear bumper off for now. If I do use it, I'm going to flip it. I had a body line scribed in at the rear of the bed. But, it was in the wrong spot. So, I filled it back in and am going to leave it smooth. The interior work is done. I made door panels (the handles, window cranks and arm rests will be separate pieces) to fit the Lightning tub. It's a tight fit. But, it will slide in. I also made a simple headliner. Don't know if I'll glue it to the window runners or directly to the roof and then modify the glass. I'm really close to being able to shoot some serious primer on this thing. Can't wait to see what the colors are going to look like together! This is the Gray Green I'll be painting it.
  15. Thanx! I've got a couple more ideas for wheels that I want to try. I like the steel wheels OK. But, they're just sooo overdone anymore. I got some primer shot on them last night. It helped them a lot getting them in one color. I think what I didn't like mostly about them was they looked like they had a huge trim ring around them which made them look small.
  16. I always use rattle cans to paint. So, I know no difference. To me, an airbrush is too much hassle. I had two. One had never been used. The other had only been used a few times. I threw both of them away.
  17. Very realistic looking weathering on this! The wrecker bed is very well done! Nice work Jay!
  18. Looks good Gerald! I have a model painted with Light Sand. Some TS-13 will give it a good shine.
  19. No. Completely different tools. AMT made a '62 convertible that may work. It's a much newer kit than your annual. But, may just work.
  20. That's a really cool looking little model! The color and wheels really suit it well! Never knew Datsun even made such a car. Nice work!
  21. Thanx! It's neither. It's an original kit.
  22. Not a lot of progress this week. Been busy on the farm. But, I did get a lot of little things done. I opened the cooling holes in the wheels and modified the disc brakes from the Lightning to fit. I did some refining to the frame notch to give it a little more natural look. I cut out the X member at the rear and replaced it with a new one to make room for the gas tank. I made a new mount for the rear shocks with rod and a couple of tabs. I sectioned the muffler and tail pipes from the Lightning. I added the front springs/mounts. A lot of what time I have had has been spent on the cab. Firewall glued in, filled, puttied and sanded. Smoothed the wheel wells. Removed the old radiator. Separated the grille from the bumper and opened up the grille. Removed the fuel neck, door emblems and wing glass. Scribed in and deepened the panel lines. I still gotta figure out how to take care of the half moon hole in the core support. I may just stick the horn back on and smooth the backside. I notched the bedside to allow the Lightning exhaust to fit. I think this will be a really cool styling cue when done. Both colors of paint are now here. I really want to get the wheels painted in the Racing White so I can decide if I'm going to keep or can them. I should be getting a few things in primer very soon!
  23. Here's an example of chrome and matt aluminum BMF.
  24. I know what you mean. Years ago, I bought the AMT / Model King Bronco/trailer/Cougar F/C set just to get the Bronco. They issued the Cougar separately. So, I thought they would do the same with the Bronco. But, no. I had to buy the whole set and got stuck with a F/C and trailer that I have no use for. At the time, I couldn't get rid of them as people already had one or could get the Cougar alone. I really hope the wagon doesn’t come with a trailer and the AWB Nova. If it does, it'll probably come at a price that I won't be willing to give just to get it. Hopefully an eBay seller will bust them up and sell them separately.
  25. I've done a few of them. Never back to original. Like Tim said, it's mine and I'll do what I want with it. Usually, the '61 and newer promos are OK. If they haven't warped by now, they're not going to. I just recently did a '59 Edsel that was straight as an arrow. Sometimes I do a simple disassemble and repaint with modern wheels. Sometimes, I cut them apart and rebuild them using a donor kit. I'd rather mess with an old promo than a new kit any day.
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