Bills72sj

Good idea, the metal I used is slightly thicker and not curved as much.

Cool tanker. Following,

I admire your creativity and your execution is excellent! Well done.

Love the subject and creativity. Following.

So far all 3 of them spray nice. The small cup one doesn't hold much paint and takes a steady hand. The larger cup one has a cap but I have learned not to fill it to the top. I have already killed the O-ring for the nozzle (due to solvents) so I have sealed it with beeswax. Have not used it since I did so. It also does not like high solids paint like decanted flat black primer. The siphon gun doesn't mind the high solid paint but requires more air pressure to spray (simple adjustment). Cleaning the jars takes a lot more lacquer thinner as opposed to the other two. So far, I have not actually used them enough to prefer one over the other.

Nice work on both. Are the black stripes paint, decals or tape?

The builds here are AWESOME! I have only been a member here for not quite a year. I have easily DOUBLED my knowledge of what actually can be done. I very recently invested in the tools and materials to airbrush. My builds now take longer but I am prouder of the results. I am still working on the time vs. quality/detail balance.

I vote for the gold metal flake to Candy Orange fade. YES!!!!

Thank you for sharing the pics and info. I really like what you have built.

Thank you. I have done some painting with all 3 airbrushes. The results have been pretty good so far. I do have a lot of set up and clean up since I do not have the privilege of leaving it ready to go as the room is multi purpose.

When I built my 69 Cougar Drag Kat (Early 70's issue?). It had inner fenders. I just dug through my meager parts box as I know I had some 67 Mustang parts in it. Unfortunately, not the engine bay. Sorry. Good Luck.

Just started a simultaneous build of 5 Mustangs. This is #3. Just finished prepping the body for paint. Once I have all the bodies prepped I will paint them all the same day.

Need some Fords in my display cabinet. Pull out this stalled project to finish up. You are welcome to follow along. Painted (so so) Testors Jade Green Metallic. Has a resin teardrop hood.

Very nice indeed. I JUST started a build of the same kit yesterday. Any assembly tips or pitfalls I should be aware of? BTW mine will be a dark blue too.

Very nice effort. I can see your skills improving. I would suggest when decaling, put one drop of dish soap in your decal soaking puddle. It will permit you to slide a decal around until it is EXACTLY where you want it. Use a Q-tip and some plain white vinegar as a cheap substitute decal set to get the bubbles and wrinkles to go away. Use dry Q-tips to gently soak up any excess moisture. Happy modeling!

My sentiments EXACTLY!

That turned out reasonably well. I like the detailed wheels and the nice matte finish on the uptop. Show us your stash and maybe we can help pick your next project.

Ray, Thanks. Just got the interior assembled. Detailed the dash as best I could without decals. Added a rear view mirror from the parts bin. The kit does not come with one.

Making slow but steady progress. Pulled off the 'wrong' pad printed BFG tires with the Goodyear tread. Replaced them with the proper Goodyears. Lettering done with white Gelly Roll pen. Used my backer rod trick to keep the "air" in the tires since there are no rim lips for the tire beads.

There have been lots of suggestions here that I agree with. Do yourself a favor and keep a 6-7" piece of 2" wide blue (or any color) masking tape laid directly on the right side of your work bench. Always apply a small blob of whatever glue you are using to that. Then use a toothpick or applicator tool to pick up a dab of glue from the blob and apply it to your pieces. You can also rest the toothpick there when you are holding the pieces together. It keeps random glue specks off of your work and bench. When you run out of clean area, just peel it up and throw it away. It is also handy for making sure Molotow pens and Sharpies are ready to write too. The glues I use: Testors Red: Good, strong bond on unpainted and unchromed styrene. NOT good for windows. Needs time to set/cure. (I wait 24hrs) Plastruct Bondene: Good bond on styrene. Especially on large contact areas with tight gaps. RISKY for clear parts. Needs time to set/cure. CA (5-15 second) gel: Good but brittle bond for a multitude of materials. Can FOG clear and glossy surfaces. Cure is FAST. Good for sub-assemblies before paint. Does NOT like movement during curing or bond is compromised. Testors Window Maker: (or equivalent). Dries clear, very good wicking for window perimeters and headlights. Not the strongest bond. Needs time to set/cure. (24hrs) I use it to fill gaps between chrome bumpers and painted bodies on Muscle Cars after the bumpers are attached with Testors Red. Gorilla Glue clear: Strong bond, dries clear, fills gaps on various materials. Easier than two part epoxy if you only need a little bit. Grips fast but gives you time before curing. Testors Glue Pen: Good for controlled application to long surfaces like scratch building items with styrene.

I like the color too.

Tom, I agree. There is a lot of satisfaction in making something pretty cool from scratch. Here are my last two major creations. A couple of headache racks.

Nice work. I would have been lazy and scrounged something from the parts bin.

Very nice job. Great looking dash.

Interesting subject. Following.