Ulf

I have removed a small(old) glue spot on a windshield with MENG's diamond file actually. I had no polish or so where I was but it turned out very well actually. The windshield was convex so I could file without the edges of the file touching. A friend has said that he will try to file off the ”reading glasses” in an old Jo-Han windshield, maybe it will be another new level (his builder are very nice).

One day it will be something completely different, but today I have at least cut. Styrene surgery is not easy but operating in these new kits that are similar on both sides, both shape and thickness makes it much easier than old kits.

Ok, if you or anyone else feels like it, let me know. 24H, Brush painting and preferably a AMT Craftsman kit.

Nice build, a one day builder brush painted can really be realy valuable sometimes. Should we run a group build in the future?

Nice and interesting project, I'm working on an Italeri Freigtliner and see these headache racks on trucks for sale on the webb. Is there a law on these in the US and does any know when that law came ?

One of two trucks, I have been lying on the couch or sitting at the table almost motionless with my legs in a cast for more than two months Building has gone well but painting with all that entails will probably take another month. Building one and even two trucks has been challenging and educational, the day I go to a show I will look at the trucks with a completely different level of respect.

Great build, baby Lambos says a some, Uracco was another one in the bunch. They were intended precisely as entry-level cars. On the island where we have a small summer house, there are about three of them, almost a dominant amount in their segment. One of the owners told us while we refueled our respective cars that the right and left sides had different shapes, probably the three were not quite the same either. At least one of them I have ridden in , fast.

Hi Mikael Glad you're writing in this thread, I've heard about you, your cars and especially about your brush painting. Today in 2025 when Humbrol has deteriorated, been banned and come back(?), what color do you use ?

Absolutely correct to start from a Thom Taylor kit, your build brings back memories of the 90s and Tom's phantom sketches. I like these phantoms because they show how incredibly good the original design is in that they can be changed.

It looks like when it snowed on the workbench during the night, all mornings were not fun when I was a plumber.

Today, with the experience and knowledge I have acquired, I would gladly take on any edition of this kit, when I was 12-13 years old the challenge was overwhelming. YouTube, The Revell 1957 Ford Ranchero - A Brief History. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awin9He74pA https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=awin9He74pA

A lot of malicious and judgmental words come to light when someone's stash comes up, but now with just in time and online shopping, it is still important to have prepped and be ready, learn. Three weeks ago I slipped and broke my ankle badly, ambulance, hospital, waiting, surgery and now convalescence, one month remains with plaster and crutches. In short, the kit I ordered online as soon as I got home from hospital has not been seen but when I retired I got an Italeri truck, not a kit I would ever buy but now it is perfect to be able to build it will probably be half naked to use some model car kit YouTubers nomenclature, some details painted but the body left unpainted. After this with this experience I will be even more careful about commenting on anyone's stash, if I am going to say anything at all it will be a reminder of the importance of having a balanced stash that includes something for all situations; even the unexpected ones.

Wow, this warms the heart of an old plumber, nice with a moodboard, a visualization of the project goal.

Hi David Your house looks great. Interesting that you also chose to build houses in foamboard. I have come to the conclusion that the contact adhesive in the picture works best, but that since it is a contact adhesive, it does not provide any opportunities for adjustments. Vallejo's slightly funny putty works well as well as MIG's structure paste. Regardless of the above, my experience so far is that foamboard is not only much cheaper than plasticard. My previous attempts to build houses in plasticard have been very fragile without being very detailed, brittle and sensitive to impact. My project is based on a card model in a Revell kit but it, like the rest of my projects, will have to wait until the bone is healed.

The love for Monograms kits.

A lot of money but but but if you have a plan, read, dare to ask here on MCF and restrain yourself from impulse buying, it can feel more reasonable. I took a screenshot of your recipe, thanks. Projects that one feels like generally get done.

Could this be something? (I'm lying on the couch with a broken leg in a cast, doing theoretical modeling)

An impressive build, this Tamiya kit is not as many think either a regular Porsche or a shake and bake kit. I know it is difficult to mount the windshield because the glass is insignificantly larger than the opening. You are absolutely right in your admonition not to postpone modeling, it was an essential part of the overall arguments for me to retire earlier (modeling had no place when I was working). Now that I finally have the opportunity, some other conditions for building have also changed but I take it based on the conditions offered. I will follow your build in to Under glass.

I have repaired a broken A-pillar in the upper corner once, if it wasn't a Jo-han Oldsmobile kit I wouldn't have done it, phew what a lot of work ! I sawed a 1/16 groove into the roof actually and glued a piece of flat styrene that was quite hard(plasticard was too soft). When the glue dried I filed to the shape including the edge of the windshield because the roof post was a little thicker. I took a picture just now to show the angle of how I sawed (blue tape), the styrene piece was very well machined at the end that was glued to the post while the other end stuck up so I could hold it with a piang, the paper piece has about the same shape. I then glued with Tenax (much like Tamiya's glue) and filled (sculpted) with Milliput. Was it good or perfect ? It was ok but a vinylroof Mary have hidden some… Give the glue long time to set. Edit: It's not a bit ironic that I was going to write that the bonding is the weakest point much like a broken bone but I didn’t. A couple of hours later I slipped and broke my ankle in two places and now surgery and months of convalescence await. A light in the darkness was all the help I got from people when it happened and the nurses who picked me up in the ambulance. Now I guess I'll plant and fantasize about what to build. The operation next week is to screw stainless steel plate over one of the breaks and screw or two screws to steady it up, in short a bit like my plastic piece across when I mended my Jo-han kit once.

It's a jungle, front axles are an interesting subject, my best advice to not end up where I ended up is to try different ones until it looks harmonious. See the last posts in my attached build thread, I don't want to end up there again, a glued on front axle with no shocks. I'm not completely happy with how it turned out but now it is as it is. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/187992-ford-34-a-street-hot-rod-who-did-not-reach-the-finish-line/ 1932 Ford: Wheelbase : 106.0 in | 2692 mm. Front Track : 55.2 in | 1402 mm. Rear Track : 56.7 in | 1440 mm. ie the middle of the tires. A dropped original axle will be a little narrower when dropped, how much depends on which method and which professional. One factor that affects is actually the wheelbase, many rods have the front axle mounted a little further forward than original and since the frame narrows, it becomes a little more difficult to get this good in 1/25 scale. I have seen a very promising build that is half finished where the builder chose the front axle from Monograms 32 incl hairpins and brake shields, the advantage was according to him that the shock absorbers are molded into the front axle. That build looks very right.

Hi Mike I am in the same situation as you for slightly different reasons, season and sensitive cat mainly. My learning curve with Vallejo is at least pointing upwards, an important insight was that Vallejo's primer, which is available in different colors, is more durable but also a little different from the colors. See picture, the primer is polyurethane. A piece of Tamiya tape on the primer bottles makes it easier to tell them apart in the box…

Fantastic build, a curious question, do you brush the primer too or do you use spray can type Warhammer ?

No kitcrome actually attracts me, Revell may well release their 32s in an ”unplated edition”, u as in Ulf.

Very, if not incredibly interesting, but a little surprising that no pickup truck is in the top ten.

I really appreciate your projects and your articulate answers to our questions. I once talked to a model builder who was dreading the day his life project would be finished. Projects completed over a long period of time often have one thing in common, they have the right stance, that's something you can see if you let it take time.