Rick L

I’ll wait till this stuff goes on sale. ?

In my own experience, I agree with this. I prefer using lacquer when painting bodies. I carefully watch for dust on each pass of spray. And if I see any trace of dust, I stop immediately. You can’t bury it with more paint. Flash it with air if possible and wait for it to dry completely. When dry I can usually flick the dust off with 500 grit paper and continue with minimal damage.

Sweet! I’m building a “55” at this time and the color pattern will be close to yours. It confirms to me that I have chosen a good one. Very nice build.

How about using water soluble paint with an airbrush? A good filter should catch any minimal overspray the airbrush emits. Bathroom vented? If so you could set up your portable on top of the sink or vanity and shoot in the closed room while also running the bathroom fan. Kind of a pain in the A.. every time you want to paint but desperate men will go through desperate measures.

MEK can be found at West Marine stores. My local Lowe’s has it but it’s sold in gallon cans.

Thanks for sharing Bill.?

That’s more like it.?

OK, I’ll call you crazy but I like it.

Whenever the Hallmark channel comes on, it’s time to kiss the bride and mosey down stairs to tinker with the work in progress.

Shooting into the tub does indeed create a vortex, very much like a cotton candy machine, partially curing the paint from the back pressure created by shooting into the tub. LL3 is spot on with his answer.

Sweet!

nice clean work.

Fisheye reducers do work for urethane but it’s also best to remove the source of contamination in your environment. Are you spraying in a basement with the oil burner or other machinery running? It doesn’t take much to stir up the air around you to screw up good preparation

I love the 33. A classic design.

Purdy!

That depends on what your modeling with the wire and what scale your building to.

I hope I’m not too late to tell you this but if you’re using gray primer the yellow will come out a little greenish. Use a white primer to get the full extent of the color.

It’s moisture in the air that kicks CA. So keeping it in a low humidity environment such as a refrigerator may be your best bet. Although I’ve never tried it, a ziplock bag may also help.

I agree with this method. Less labor intensive than cutting individual rounds at different angles and matching up along the angle line.

I guess you got a few replies on this subject Steve. I think you hit a nerve. This will be interesting to follow.

Looks good from my house. Don’t beat yourself up on stuff you can’t control.

Now THAT is a great find. I just made some with a flaring tool and cutoff on a lathe. A little time consuming to get uniform. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks guys. It didn’t take much. This was one of those kits that looked great if you just put it together. I don’t remember how old I was but I was very young then and I’m 68 now. It’s a rare kit today commanding over $100 on eBay if in decent condition.

That’s exactly what it is. It’s a result of the plastic flowing through the mold from different directions from different injectors. The plastic from one injector is colder than the other and setting up before it meets the plastic from the other injector resulting in a parting line throughout the part that unfortunately will not buff out. Bummer!

Superb!