-
Posts
15,089 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by Casey
-
Gas class 3/4 ton rear end.
Casey replied to R. Thorne's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Those are 1/20 scale wheels-- too large for 1/25 scale. Correction-- the Revell '41 Chevy pickup has a rearend which I think would work for you: -
1/25 AMT 1977 Ford Delivery Van w/Coke Machine
Casey replied to Casey's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
The hood on these kits is a separate piece, so while the drivetrain is tucked away, you can still see the top end when you open or remove the hood. I won't buy the entire kit, but I will seek out the vending machine and decal sheet on eBay. -
After viewing Chris'/hpiguy's YouTube review of the AMT '77 Ford Van, I'm now wondering if Round2'll include the two coke bottle crates and a die-cast dollies, too. Guess we'll see when the kit arrives. The 13" wheels (which were newly created in the previous Ohio George verion) and tires are really nice, and save for early '60s era original AMT kits, about the only good source for '60s vintage 13" steel wheels and tires.
- 221 replies
-
- Ohio George ?
- new?
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Gas class 3/4 ton rear end.
Casey replied to R. Thorne's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
No such luck in a kit, unfortunately, as most commonly available truck kits which would be era appropriate ('50, '55, and '60 Chevy, and '50 Ford) are light duty (1/2 ton) with five-lug wheels. I think the Revell '41 Chevy rearend might work, though-- see below post. -
-
- 221 replies
-
- Ohio George ?
- new?
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Why haven't all three topics discussing the same kit been merged into one?
-
The search first, please:
-
Truck kit instructions and more.
Casey replied to Force's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Maybe you could post a reply to the existing pinned model kit instruction sheet topic, and keep all the sources in one place?: -
1/25 Jeep Gladiator
Casey replied to Casey's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
-
1/25 Jeep Gladiator
Casey replied to Casey's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Check it out for the last time. ? I'm moving on, so please, no replies. I'm only replying to add images. -
Comparing images of the real Mail Box Chopper with the MPC kit, one can see just how vastly different most of the parts are. Perhaps MPC was satisfied with "close enough, it looks like a hot rod trike" at the time. Here's a good look at the orignal(?) issue, especially the decal sheet mentioned earlier in this topic: http://motoblogn.blogspot.com/2013/03/ed-big-daddy-roths-mail-box-chopper.html
-
I doubt we'll see that until 2021, but I'd be delighted to be wrong. Don't forget about the Tom Daniel Baja Bandito kit. From the tomdaniel.com website, last updated in late October 2019: Still some issues to resolve, but the revised BAJA BANDITO is supposed to be available in July. Stay Tuned
-
Where to go sell off some of my kits?
Casey replied to Pete J.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Use eBay, and use succinct, accurate descriptions. Trust me, people will find what they are looking for if you have a good listing title and description. It's tough to beat that worldwide market, and you can get plenty of free Priority Mail shipping boxes from USPS in advance. -
I just deleted my PB account after being a member since 2004...that should speak volumes. I had a paid account on a grandfatherd plan for $30/year, but fotki is cheaper ($95/5 years, I think?), has the roll feature I like, and PB's service (images don't load, navigating inside albums is awful, etc.) is simply no longer something I wished to use. I'm very happy with fotki and would recommend it to others. It also didn't help that my PB account was inaccessible for over a month from December until about a week ago, either. Not going to miss it, honestly. I was great in the early days, but went down the toilet the last two years or so.
-
Can you tell me what these are?
Casey replied to ewetwo's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
-
-
? Nice score. Have you opened it yet? I hope the body shell is intact and not bent. ?
- 38,296 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Yes, one part molds are far easier IMHO. If you don't have a vacuum chamber to remove air from the mold rubber when first poured, you will probably be fine if the mold depth is shallow (1" or less) and there are no deep undercuts. I have made many single part molds without a vacuum chamber, but you have to be diligent regarding manually removing any trapped air bubbles before the mold rubber cures. I use Smooth On's Mold Max 10, and have been very pleased with it. There are smaller trail size kits available, which sounds like it might be a good match for your needs: https://www.smooth-on.com/products/mold-max-10/ I think Smooth On's Smooth Cast 310 would be a good choice if you do not have a pressure pot, as it has a longer open time, again allowing you to manually chase out all air bubbles. yes, it can be done, but you're going to have to pour and cast in smaller batches and be patient. Probably not a big deal if you're planning to cast small items like wheels and such as seen in your image. A small 2-3 gallon pressure pot is not that expensive, and if you already have a pancake air compressor or larger (not a tiny, constantly running airbrush style compressor), you're already halfway to having a decent casting setup. https://www.smooth-on.com/category/urethane-resin/ Honestly, there are many different companies producing mold rubber, urethane resin, and other molding and casting products, and each person has different experiences and preferences, so factor that in when you read people's suggestions. I like predictable, repeatable results, so I use the above mentioned products and follow the same techniques each time and get, well, predictable, consistent results. I would NOT recommend using Alumilite products (which, admittedly, are easily available at box craft stores), especially not their trial kits, as both the resin and mold rubber included set up way too quickly for what you are planning. One other tool you absolutely will need is an accurate scale which reads in grams. I use the Jennings CJ-600 scale, which I purchased from Old Will Knott Scales here: https://www.oldwillknottscales.com/jennings-jscale-cj600.html Very pleased with the scale and company's service. Don't cheap out and try to use a low quality kitchen scale from the thrift store. If you want accuracy, invest in a good, accurate scale. One other suggestion based upon what I see in your image. Use a smaller mold container so there's less waste. For smaller items like wheels you don't need that much mold material around the cavity, but maybe you simply used whatever you had nearby. Various lengths of PVC pipe (which is available in multiple diameters) or unions/collars are nearly ready to use or can be cut to whatever length you need, and the cut ends can be made flat and square to the side walls with some sanding on a planar surface, too. Here's an an example of that, using a piece of 3" pipe cut to 1-14" in length (height, as shown). I have several former Corian countertop material sample squares which I use as as the base, and double side carpet tape to keep the mold ring and parts in place while the mold rubber cures. Rather simple, but easy to disassemble and clean up, to allow for re-use. These are all parts which can be made with one-part molds, so again, for consistent and repeatable results, follow the K.I.S.S. method whenever possible: Some Chevy Rally wheels, vintage style CMUs, and a 1/20 scale Hurst wheel, ready for mold rubber to be poured over them: The above mold ring is used for various different height items, so it's a bit too tall for even the tallest item inside of it in the image above, but you can see how the parts can be efficiently placed to maximize space and minimize the amount of mold rubber used. Trail and error will determine what works best for you, but this seems similar to what you have planned. Here's a cured (slightly dusty) mold similar to what you'd get after filing the above mold with rubber and allowing it to cure: One final tip: ensure the are you rest your mold(s) upon while they are curing is level in all directions. That will ensure the cured mold is a consistent thickness and the parts which come from it are level and even, too.
-
Judging by Tim Boyd's advance copy and review of the '65 Chevelle, very soon. ? I would expect the others to arrive in late spring ('66 Impala) and July-ish for the '65 Fairlane. I figure a six month cushion between announcement and general availability is about right in most cases. Looking on eBay, most of the previous issues of the AMT Mod Stockers are available to buy right now for $30 or so, which is a bit less than the $33 MSRP of these forthcoming Round2 reissues, so unless any new or bonus parts make the 2020 reissues must haves, you can have them now if you wish.
-
Mystery motorcycle kit, help identify
Casey replied to bisc63's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Google search for "Pyro motorcycle". ?