Casey

I don't think typical logic applies in this case, or we would've already seen a '67 or something else similar. I would expect Round2 to reissue their '69 T/A in a fauxback box very soon, though.

Welcome back, Tom.

How smooth is the master part? Unless you're going for a sand-cast look (like the exterior surface of an engine block casting), the smoother the surface is on each part, the better. If you can polish every millimeter of the outer surface up to 12,000 grit, do it. Yes, it's a lot of work, but the better the master, the better your copies will be. RTV silicone rubber has a very low surface tension, which is why very few things "stick" to it. Adding baby or talcum powder does nothing to decrease the surface tension of the cured mold rubber.

Previous review topics you might find helpful: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50578 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8416 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53089

That's already covered in the Model Cars - On The Workbench section's sub-header" Rules for On The Workbench For those viewing others who are presenting their works in progress in this section of the forum, please keep your criticisms, sarcasms, and other comments to yourself, unless the builder/poster has specifically asked for such replies. All a poster needs to do is ASK FOR criticism, sarcams, etc., and you better believe there are members here who will oblige them.

You'd never guess that if it was gaining on you in your rear-view mirror. Out of curiosity, how do you decide which brass-era kits to buy/build, and what is it about brass-era cars which appeals to you so much?

Not enough people want them. I doubt tastes have changed that radically since 1997, at least not enough to make selling these viable in 2015, but I submit this news blurb from SAE as proof:

See post #1, Jake, as Gregg test fit a die-cast Dually bed, though I'm not sure which one.

I like it, and I think both the modern Challenger and Camaro look best in orange. Orange interior would be, interesting.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=79755 Maybe you could start with Bandit Resins' '71 Chevelle grille?:

Oops, you're right, it's hobbylinc I was thinking of.

As in, all the finishing work is done and this is the finished master? I hope that's not the case, as there appear to be several areas which still need finishing, as pointed out by the arrows below. It's entirely your business to sell whatever you want, however you want, but being honest, I think your final product would be greatly improved if more time was spent finishing the master, eliminating any joints which shouldn't be present, glue smears, and rough puttied areas, and flattening and truing/squaring up the frame rails and cross members.

The AMT '49 Mercury has a set of chromed steel wheels with integrally molded baby moons, too, but here are the chrome sprues from the '53 Ford from the same 'site linked above:

The exact shipping cost will be stated in each listing. If it's not, contact the seller and ask for an exact cost. We pay no fees nor import duties for packages coming into the U.S., so what's stated is what you'll pay. You might consider buying direct from HobbyLink Japan or similar if it's a recent/current kit you are thinking of buying, and HLJ has an eBay store if you want to buy from them through eBay, too.

'91-ish Chevy Cavalier Z-24 convertible, early '90s Mustang LX convertible, '68 Plymouth Fury (daily driver), and a GMC Safari GT:

Is this your existing account?: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showuser=1237

Hard to say without knowing exactly what was use to join the parts...or how well it was done. Careful wiggling and taking each part off one-by-one is the best place to start.

Slideshow pics: http://www.modelcarbuildermag.com/corvair.html

http://www.modelcarbuildermag.com/53ford.html Are the tires new, or have these been included in previous Round2 kits?:

http://www.media.chrysler.com/dcxms/assets/specs/2006DodgeRamMegaCabSpecs.pdf

Something like....this?: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71690&hl=%2Bdoor+%2Bhandles

Is it there yet?

The is the closest we may ever come: http://www.joeld.net/futurliner/futurliner.html

Hobbylobby.com, get the coupon right on your smartphone. Tamiya primers seem to have a much finer composition that Duplicolor or similar primers, and as Jon said, you get what you pay for. They are well worth the cost in my experience, too.