Shark

Haven't seen any, but you might try contacting some of the custom decal printers such as 3amigos. They won't be cheap, but you would definitely have something different.

I got some Cadillac valve covers and breather from him along with the previously mentioned stuff. My personal opinion, his stuff is the best on the market. You have to mail them to get a catalog, but worth the effort.

MCW did, not sure about now. Check their website.

Mine would be the MPC 1968 Barracuda annual kit. It was the first model I ever built.

Mike did not sell his hobby shop, just relocated to the south to get closer to family. You will still be getting it from the same person, just from a different location.

Testors will not work, it bonds by melting the plastic and will not adhere to resin. CA (super glue) or 2 part epoxy glue will get the job done. If using CA glues, you may want to reinforce the joint with epoxy glue where you won't see it.

Thanks for the information, my stash of metalizers is getting low and this my be a good replacement. Should be more durable also.

I am new to 3D printed parts also, having just bought a set of wheels. What effect does super glue have on them?

You might check with Harold Bradford at Historic Racing Miniatures, he probably makes something that would be a good or even better replacement.

Seen people use Taimya clear red over gold. If you want to polish it, use their clear for the top coat. Going to do this soon on a project in the works.

A few things for thought: I know of builders who would polish out colored plastic like you would a paint job. No clear coat. Molotov pens are great, but not too durable as far as handling. I mostly foil and use the pen on scripts and dash detailing. For white walls measure what the inside and outside diameters you want and get a sign shop to cut out some rings out of adhesive vinyl. Get a satin finish off-white.

Likewise

I always let resin soak in Westley's Bleach White tire cleaner for at least 24 hours, then scrub with an old tooth brush. Good thing about resin is the hotter paints don't affect it.

Excellent job on that one. Beat his son Davey at the Daytona 500 with that car, then almost lost his life later that year in it

If you can't scrap a painted surface, I use 2 part epoxy glue. Have had super glue to frost finishes.

Looking good. Definitely will be following this one as I want to do either Fireball's or Turner's 56 Ford.

I am not a funny builder, but that is a really nice piece you have going. Please post some pictures when you get one built.

Two part catalyzed fillers such as Evercoat are my favorite. I only mentioned the super glue because he sounded like he wanted to stay away from puttys and fillers.

Depending on how deep it is, but put a drop of super glue on it and let it sit level overnight. I have done this for ejector marks. It may take more than one application. Make sure you prime it afterwards.

Lots of people poor mouth these kits, but I like them and think you did an excellent job on your build. I didn't notice anything wrong with the decals, but if you haven't cleared them, Mike is coming out with a Pearson sheet for his 68 and up HM cars.

I have used real automotive tint before. I went to a professional tint shop and they gave me enough "scrap" to last a long time. My preferred method is the Tamiya smoke spray.

One thing I found useful, in building some Corvettes, I got some parts catalogues and they were more helpful than the pictorials I have.

A build I seen listed Guards Red as the color for the Goldsmith car. The Bobby Isaac cars were Ford Poppy Red. Don't know how close the two are.

I didn't and didn't think anyone else should have. You mentioned Dave, he built it. I'm glad you dug the pictures up and posted them. If I remember correctly, he built it as a curbside from his resin kit with wheels, tires, and racing interior he was producing at the time.

I was looking at MCW's website and the resin kit is shown as in stock. Didn't see anything about decals. I think slot car fever does them.