Shark

I am doing rebuild where unpainted wheel became soft around the outside rim from being in contact with the tires. Anything I can do to reverse this and save the wheels. Thanks

I like the stripes like they are, subtle, but there.

Basically the same as Steve. I paint with gun metal or cast iron paint, mist red primer like he described, then a coat of dullcote

That frame works well with a number of early 60's Ford products. I am putting under a 64 myself, only the stock body to make a Nascar. I used it under a 62 and will do so when I get around to the 1963 I plan to do

I agree with Steve. If it would lower the cost, a plain white box with black lettering would suffice. I am sure most have seen box art that says the kit built on the artwork photo was modified or used additional parts.

I do like Bainford recommended, use .020 square and liquid cement it in place. After thoroughly drying, wet sand over the added strips, this will round the corners.

If you find the decals, please post some new pictures and let us know where you got them. I'm in the same situation

The rear tires look like more recent Revell parts pack items

If you airbrush, you can get it from MCW. The former owner was friends with Arnie and did several builds for him. So he had all the correct colors.

Thanks guys. I hate that they are not having it. I only get to go to 2 shows a year, that being one of them. Ricky, see you are a vet, Thank you!

Does anyone know when the Clemmons show is, I know it's coming up. Forgot who was putting it on or else I would go to their website. Thanks

I use tube glue like Force said, I use clamps on it and let it sit overnight.

I'm a little late to this post You mentioned the pin striping, Powerslide made a decal sheet that has that on it for the large scale Petty Charger. I think Mike's Decals is out of stock, but you might be able to round up one. Nice sheet.

I think that's what most people do. Some casters use very little or even no release agent. But to be on the safe side, I soak bodies in Westley Bleche White tire cleaner overnight, then scrub with Dawn and a toothbrush.

Sorry I couldn't help. Never seen lacquer do like that, so I am interested in what the cause may have been.

Stupid question: are you sure the last ones are lacquer? He is transitioning to enamels. The only time I have had finishes like that were using enamels. I prefer lacquer, if you use it in higher humidity it usually blushes or milks up.

Chroming a Thunderbolt is equally as fun. By the way folks, Model Cars magazine #222 has two of Michael's builds in it.

Thanks for posting this and the vendor information. Always wanted to build one of these as my mom had one, 318, hubcaps and all. Tough ole car. Not of her doing, but was wrecked so many times, everything except the roof was replaced at least once, including suspension pieces.

I haven't tried them yet, but Model Car World has some metal colors, even a tinted gold for carburetors.

I think Southern Motorsports Hobbies has the pro stock interior tub without the back seat in it.

Here are the seven versions: stock, Bonneville car, modified sports car, wild custom, rally car, road racing and stock drags. Some of these versions are so close to each other

If you are looking for more detail, I would try the AMT 1968/69 Roadrunner/GTX frame. I just held the two bodies against each other and the wheel wells matched up. My frame is partially assembled, I tried to fit it into the 71, but the body on the 68 Roadrunner is more squared up front and it hit the sloped area, so a little trimming would be needed. The width looked good.

Had to laugh when I read this response. Several years ago, a friend was in the decal business on the side. Can't remember if it was one of the Platt brothers or Nicholson's Chevy, but the crew was listed on the trunk and no one could make it out. So on went some friends names. Sold a bunch of them.

AMT 1962 Bel-Air. You can build them as drag, Nascar, street or a Biscayne with a resin body. Between built, in process and untouched, I probably have 20 of them.

Jim Rodgers (the JR in SalvinoJR) 3D prints them with the slots open and hubs corrected, $5 a set. He does parts in between projects at the model company.