rattle can man

That A wing could make an interesting show car or land speed racer.

I built two of the Lindberg releases. aside from cleanup it is a versatile kit. one was a Wedge chopped, fenderless, black hotrod (I don't remember where I borrowed the dropped front axle and rear slicks from) black primer. The other a green body/ yellow fendered hotrod tow truck.

Just wanted to make sure he is doing okay. I'll continue prayers and thought for him.

Bottom Line: read the label and the MSDS. If unsure which to use, test it. Each of these glues need different methods. But the quality of your bond depends on clean, bare plastic surfaces for the best joint possible. It has been a long time since I tried citrus-based glue, but I remember it did not work that great. But perhaps newer formulas do.

Bump. Anyone heard from Gary?

I would think if there were hydraulics on all of the ramps it would work without separate ramps.

It's best to check with the maker. Some 3d printers advise against soaking parts.

I think I will just hold off on a trade for now. I will probably just help someone out with parts if needed. It was part of a lot of kits I got in an auction, not really something I would build o

pics are way too small for my old eyes.

WEC does make it hard to catch all of the races using their app. And I used their contact email and they pretty much said not all races could be viewed in the US, even though it appears MAX will carry them all.

The only thing with scanning old decals and printing on new paper is that most printers do not have white ink. If you use white paper, you have to trim carefully. Or in the case of the "Sears" decals I'm trying to use, it's just white on white, so scanning and printing is impossible.

Let me see what I have.

I have a complete sheet with a pair that looking more like orange than yellow. It is one line. not two like your picture shows. Definitely not red as I also have one red.

Didn't people upgrade by swapping in a Fiat X 1/9 drivetrain?

I can check tonight. I believe I might have a pair. Hockey keeps interrupting the fights. LOL.

looking good! The weathering is perfect.

Mr. Softee trucks used a blue and white scheme. mostly white with a blue grille and lower body. But as far as I know, they used van-based bodies

Thanks Rob! I don't have the App. I just get the channel through a certain streaming service.

I just applied some 50 y.o.l. decals I coated with liquid decal film. I tried Solva-Set after applying the decals, but the decals look a bit silvered even on a shiny finish. I think if i would have used the Solva-Set under the decal it might have done better. As it stands, I will try poking some holes in them with pins and try applying the stronger setting solution in hopes it will wick under and do its job. I think the silvering is due to the old decal adhesive going bad.

There is a thread in WIP drag racing that links back to the NHRA rules for the '50s-'60s on the H.A.M.B.

Thank you! I have: the body shell with nothing that attaches to it; Interior is complete except for the top of the dashboard; And all I have from the chassis is the frame/ pan and what appear to be two skid plates/ belly pans; two wheels and tires.

IIRC, the rules called for stock bodies initially and Wings and spoilers became legal later. Just like Fiberglass, changes to engine setbacks, etc.

The Palmer models were a physics experiment. They wanted to see what the subjects would look like near a blackhole so they used equations developed to make calculations based on theoretical physics of blackholes.

It's a funny thing how people feel about the weather. I find the older I get, the less I can stand the heat. Arthr doesn't really care about the cold, just extreme weather changes. and they occur whatever the temp is.

After h parts, < it looks like I will be building my original and possibly cannibalizing the new tool for parts.