Roncla

X2 for Replicas and Miniatures as well

I've placed numerous orders with The Modelhaus over the years and they have always shipped a quality product within their stated time frame. This kind of dependable service is important when you live worlds away.

I've been using Prep-sol for decades. I have always used it straight from the can. Just apply it to a cloth and give the part a good wipe down. I've never soaked anything in it and since its a solvent I'd be hesitant to do so. A Modelhaus resin kit I have here has a sheet that says to clean the parts with POR 15 Marine Clean which is a water based industrial strength cleaner degreaser.

That is a very nice build. One to be proud of.

Very nice build. Keep the photos coming.

I purchased a auto parts store compressor with a 24L tank and while it is noisy it only takes 2 minutes to full and I then just switch it off. I refill it again the next day.I find the full tank will last me an entire evening of airbrushing. If you leave them turned on they will keep kicking in to top up the tank which is loud, annoying, and can make you jump out of the chair but controlling when it fills works fine for me.

Most digital cameras have adjustable white balance in their menus. Usually it will be set to auto and this will do the job but if you cannot produce natural looking colors changing the white balance using a setting appropriate for the light source could help.

Mine is 'Missy ' the lady of the house

I use that method too but I also roll out some Blu Tak then use it to seal the straw to the nozzle of the spray can. it secures the straw and prevents any paint from escaping around the join.

Thats clever thinking and a really great build

i grabbed one of these the other day too. It seems tiny after other 1/25 kits let alone coming from 1/12

Thats an impressive build of a challenging kit.

Very creative. Nice build

This exactly why I always remove it. I don't know why it has to be put on so thick by the manufactures.

I've been using Barcoat Isolator to seal the plastic from hot solvents for decades now. Its a specialty coating that allows a hot paint like lacquer to be sprayed over the likes of enamel. One coat makes the plastic bullet proof to hot solvents. It is especially good in sealing off areas where you have done body work and to prevent ghosting http://www.u-pol.com...ng-isolator.htm

X2. I only use lacquers and enamels reduced with lacquer thinners so as soon as the paint has flashed off I carefully get the tape out of there. This is one of those things that you really need to practice to find what works for yourself as different paints and tapes will behave differently

The 37 looks really sharp in those colors. Thats a nice clean build.

The 40 looks good in that color and the 5 spokes set it off nicely. Great build.

Its going to be interesting to see how Aoshimas' Toyota compares to the Tamiya offering http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10182967

I've only built one to date but it is a top shelf effort from Revell. Thanks for the video Doctor, I do want to build another.

Great video Doctor. Thanks for the insight in to a kit that I must get a copy of.

Nice build of a challenging kit Chris. I've built the Auto Union and Ferrari 500 Casadio kits and know all to well how bad the factory paint jobs are and the need to constantly test fit to get things aligned. I found the metal they were manufactured from was hard and quite difficult to work with compared to the metal of Model Factory Hiro kits.

I would have to question the drivability of some of these cars this type of culture creates

Some of the Satco tires are being reproduced by the Modelhaus (with Satcos' permission ). The wide whites are #T428

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