Bainford

Coming along great. Looks like a nicely detailed kit, and you certainly have a handle on it. I haven't seen one of the Nunu kits built yet, so watching for sure.

Awesome looking kit, Matt. Looking forward to watching this one come together.

Coming along very nicely, Bob. I haven't picked up a Salvino's kit yet, but been thinking about getting one of these Petty Plymouths. Your build is adding some fuel to that flame.

Brilliant work, Francis.

Another example of dash detailing. Basically everything on the dashboard is scratch built. This is the dash from my current Lotus Europa project. When it comes to scratch building dash components, old sports car are more straightforward than the complex dashboard on large American cars, such as Steve’s shown above.

Welcome to the forum, Bob. You’ve got some cool projects on deck. Looking forward to the Junior Hanley car coming around. Cheers.

Aside from my interest in all things mechanical, I'm not a plane guy at all. However, anything in 1/25 or 1/24 scale interests me, so many years ago I picked up an Airfix 1/24 scale P-51 Mustang. I've not built it, but it appears to be an exceptional kit, tons of detail, including a very detailed engine. I even picked up a second kit years later just to rob the Rolls Royce Merlin engine from (which will eventually end up in a custom Rolls project). It's a large and lovely kit. From a guy who is not up to speed on plane kits, I highly recommend the Airfix 1/24 Mustang.

Very cool Countach. Good, clean work, and the paint shows very well. I like the texture you achieved on the airbox in the first photo. Looks good without the big, greasy wing. Love it.

Looks great all foiled up, Lee.

Looking good. When airbrushing a complex assembly such as an assembled engine, try dialing down the air pressure and getting the airbrush in a bit closer.

I feel your pain. When I heard it was being discontinued, I raided the paint rack at the hobby shop and managed to score two or three bottles, but I've been keeping an eye out for a good substitute. I have a good selection of flat black and semi-gloss black paints in enamel, lacquer, and acrylic, but none have the right combination of texture and 'blackness' or sheen.

They don't make it anymore and it's hard to get.

I polish kit glass with Tamiya polishes, all three grits, unless the glass is very good to begin with, then start with Fine. Give it a good second work-out with the Finish grit. Follow up with Tamiya wax. If the glass has significant waviness or optical distortion, I first sand it with fine sand paper, used wet, and with a drafting eraser for a sanding block. When the surfaces are good and flat (so to speak), I give it a work-out with micromesh pads up to at least 8000 grit, then hit it with the Tamiya polishes. Kit glass can be greatly improved, and a much better result then dipping in Future. The very best method is illustrated by Steve's Pontiac above. I'm moving in that direction more as time goes on, but struggling somewhat with acceptable results (though, I'm being highly critical when assessing those results). I think I need to change the brand of clear plastic I'm using. I'll keep trying it. The potential for excellent realism is there.

I've been curious about this stuff, too. Being an epoxy, there should be no shrinkage at all.

Ditto

Exquisite build! Your Tolbot Lago is simply gorgeous. Fine detailing and cleanly built. Hats off for a stunning model.

Welcome to the forum, Boston. Good luck with your project.

The six sheets were probably successively finer grits. A common method when colour sanding is to sand in one direction with one grit, then in the cross direction with the next finer grit, and so on. It is the best way to erase the fine scratches left behind by the coarser grits, though often the body contours and features dictate the direction of sanding. However, if you are working on the hood in the photo above, it can't be saved with colour sanding. I'd strip it and start over.

Beautiful Jag, Tom. Nicely built, and looks great in that colour. Well done.

Just beautiful, David. Such nice, clean work on such a challenging kit. Excellent!

Welcome to the forum, Terry.

You are correct Roger! Thanks for the correction, got the two kits mixed up. I think the Maverick comes with both, but the Comet definitely comes with the Boss only. Original post edited.

A couple other kit Cammers; - JoHan Maverick pro stock. A good looking engine, though with some accuracy issues the anoraks will find fault with, such as the same block being used for the 427 Cammer and the Boss 429, which in 1:1 are two different engine families. The Cammer parts are decent. - MPC flip from Mustang (origin Ohio George Mustang?). Most of the engine is undersized and generic, but the Cammer parts look great, and includes the 'Ford 427' lettering on the cam covers, which many exclude (most cam covers in period did not have this lettering). - AMT '68 Shelby, some kit releases but not all. A decent engine with nice looking Cammer bits. Seems to me there was a thread on the forum a while back listing and comparing kit based Cammers. It would be worth while to dig up that thread. As mentioned above, Texas 3D Customs has just released a gorgeous Cammer, with induction and transmission options. Having purchased some of his stuff, I can say his engines are top notch.

I am always amazed at what a good panel beater can do. As impressive as the chassis work is, and the scratchbuilding of engineering components, I understand the mechanics and dynamics of creating those assemblies. I can do some of that stuff. But the body work seems such a black art to me. Where the other stuff is pure craft, the panel work feels much more like art. Very impressive, Randy. Thanks much for taking the time post this stuff in detail. Cheers.