Paul Payne

I don’t know about decals, but there are a lot of nice gauges printed on clear acetate.

Beautiful classic build!

I think I remember a modeler using dental floss to simulate wicker seats, but I’m not sure the minty kind would be the best choice!? Perhaps using tea for tinting?

Got my copy yesterday, and it is excellent! I think picking out projects from the forum is a stroke of genius! The coverage of a virtual contest shows just how unstoppable this hobby is! Keep them coming!

I would leave it as is- the new T-bird parts may not fit due to the body being a bit wider.

The results more than make up for any building tribulations! This is a great model!

Great looking start, maybe set the spare tire lower and closer. Will follow this one!

Micromark has fine drill bit sets and also packages of a single size bit handy for replacing easily broken small ones.

That beast of Turin- I keep waiting for those wire wheels to collapse! There have been some Miller racing cars in 1/25th scale, but all multimedia (resin and white metal) and a little fiddly to get together. It would be great even to have supercharged engines available! In the early sixties I got a book called “The Mad Motorists”, about the 1907 Peking to Paris race. Fascinating cars- Itala, Spyker, Contal tri-car, DeDion- back when almost everything was an experiment! I think this was the first multi continent race- can’t call it a road race because there were no roads!

Still waiting for mine- got a subscription renewal saying I should receive issue #209 before it runs out- anyone else still waiting?

I just received some goodies from an old friend who is moving from the east coast to the west coast. Several parcels of basswood strips, a balsa airplane, and something called Space Clusters which assembles into 3d geometric shapes using neon colored plastic rods. Question- does anyone know if these rods are styrene? These could be useful in some interesting new ways........

To me, model building is an artistic and creative outlet. Lately I am getting into kitbashing and scratch building to get something unique and expressing my own vision.

I seem to remember a Frontenac option but don’t remember the kit- perhaps Tim Boyd could help?

All of the above, plus a presentable paint job!

I have always admired this engine design with the cam and supercharger drive at the center of the engine- greatly reduces cam shaft torquing. Your model looks totally realistic- beautiful job!

Thanks, Mark, I will check them out.

I am building a boat and would like to add the name on the stern in gold leaf letters. Does anyone make a lettering sheet where you could cut out and apply individual letters?

I don’t know if a thread like this has ever been started, so I’m starting one! You have a model kit- now, how do you build it? First thing, you have to start removing all the interesting bits off the trees (or runners, or sprues). So- what tool might you use? The best tool is a spruce cutter, but you can also use a modelers knife or a single edge razor blade. Now, to clean up the part, you can use a sanding stick (available at stores in the nail section), or sand paper, or a fine tooth file. Next, you need to start sticking some of these bits together. Assuming a styrene plastic kit, liquid styrene cement is currently the popular choice, but there is still styrene tube glue, and super glues in abundance, which is also good for sticking fingers together as well as your parts! Now, you may want to paint some of these parts before continuing with your assembly. Bottle paints are available in many colors-don’t feel you have to have all the colors- just get what you need- or like! Get a small brush with fine natural bristles- I have had brushes for over 35 years and they are still in good shape- and you can clean them with water, brush cleaner, or even acetone. If you want spray paint, try a good hobby paint, and try it on a piece of scrap first. At some point you will have to install the clear glass- white glue or clear gloss work well. I will sign off for now, more later!

Two modelers who have passed are Bud the Kat Anderson and Jocko Johnson. I don’t know if Bud owned any rods but he drove the Hairy Canary custom Thunderbird while working for AMT. Jocko was an amazing fabricator who built incredibly painted models and was involved with countless auto projects.

like it! more!

Manuel, that is one cool cabin speedster! Everyone, thanks for the input and pix!

Gotta watch the razor saw- holding the part you are cutting and hitting your finger- have also had run ins with X-acto blades, single edge razor blades, drill bits, and even sharp pieces of plastic- Maybe start a Wounded Model Warrior club?!?!?!?

For me, I think painting an interior, especially the dash, is very involved. I have an AMT 62 T-bird where both the dash and door panels will need a lot of picky work to make them look good. Been on the workbench for awhile because of this- also an Opel GT- researching dash pix and getting everything right. I have also been doing some scratch building and major kit bashing which often results in trial and error (well, many errors and retries) but the uniqueness of the result justifies the effort.

Bill, I had planned on an exterior coating, didn't think about both sides- oh well, I'll keep going and see what happens. I also use card stock for templates to transfer to styrene or whatever material is being used.

Thanks for the input! I plan on laying in a supply of plastic strip, tried to cut my own out of sheet but not even enough. I am going ahead with cardstock strips- easier to cut since the lines are 1/4" apart for instant guide lines. See how this works out in trucks and light commercial, truck, boat, and trailer. I am using white glue so if things go south I can soak everything off and start again! If things go well, I will then figure out a sealer to stiffen and moisture proof the card stock.