Paul Payne

I seem to remember a Frontenac option but don’t remember the kit- perhaps Tim Boyd could help?

All of the above, plus a presentable paint job!

I have always admired this engine design with the cam and supercharger drive at the center of the engine- greatly reduces cam shaft torquing. Your model looks totally realistic- beautiful job!

Thanks, Mark, I will check them out.

I am building a boat and would like to add the name on the stern in gold leaf letters. Does anyone make a lettering sheet where you could cut out and apply individual letters?

I don’t know if a thread like this has ever been started, so I’m starting one! You have a model kit- now, how do you build it? First thing, you have to start removing all the interesting bits off the trees (or runners, or sprues). So- what tool might you use? The best tool is a spruce cutter, but you can also use a modelers knife or a single edge razor blade. Now, to clean up the part, you can use a sanding stick (available at stores in the nail section), or sand paper, or a fine tooth file. Next, you need to start sticking some of these bits together. Assuming a styrene plastic kit, liquid styrene cement is currently the popular choice, but there is still styrene tube glue, and super glues in abundance, which is also good for sticking fingers together as well as your parts! Now, you may want to paint some of these parts before continuing with your assembly. Bottle paints are available in many colors-don’t feel you have to have all the colors- just get what you need- or like! Get a small brush with fine natural bristles- I have had brushes for over 35 years and they are still in good shape- and you can clean them with water, brush cleaner, or even acetone. If you want spray paint, try a good hobby paint, and try it on a piece of scrap first. At some point you will have to install the clear glass- white glue or clear gloss work well. I will sign off for now, more later!

Two modelers who have passed are Bud the Kat Anderson and Jocko Johnson. I don’t know if Bud owned any rods but he drove the Hairy Canary custom Thunderbird while working for AMT. Jocko was an amazing fabricator who built incredibly painted models and was involved with countless auto projects.

like it! more!

Manuel, that is one cool cabin speedster! Everyone, thanks for the input and pix!

Gotta watch the razor saw- holding the part you are cutting and hitting your finger- have also had run ins with X-acto blades, single edge razor blades, drill bits, and even sharp pieces of plastic- Maybe start a Wounded Model Warrior club?!?!?!?

For me, I think painting an interior, especially the dash, is very involved. I have an AMT 62 T-bird where both the dash and door panels will need a lot of picky work to make them look good. Been on the workbench for awhile because of this- also an Opel GT- researching dash pix and getting everything right. I have also been doing some scratch building and major kit bashing which often results in trial and error (well, many errors and retries) but the uniqueness of the result justifies the effort.

Bill, I had planned on an exterior coating, didn't think about both sides- oh well, I'll keep going and see what happens. I also use card stock for templates to transfer to styrene or whatever material is being used.

Thanks for the input! I plan on laying in a supply of plastic strip, tried to cut my own out of sheet but not even enough. I am going ahead with cardstock strips- easier to cut since the lines are 1/4" apart for instant guide lines. See how this works out in trucks and light commercial, truck, boat, and trailer. I am using white glue so if things go south I can soak everything off and start again! If things go well, I will then figure out a sealer to stiffen and moisture proof the card stock.

Has anyone used card stock for modeling? I need to use strips to form the bow of a boat, adding them to a styrene hull. I am concerned about sealing them after installation so they can be sanded and blended. The boat will never be in water, but I am concerned about moisture in the air. Any thoughts or experiences welcome!

In case you were wondering why this isn't in everything else, I WILL be doing some work on the Dodge Power Wagon- weathering, vertical exhaust stacks, possibly even a hemi transplant- and, oh yes, sanding the tire treads!

Roger, glad to help out- and that red screams hot rod! Looking forward to more!

This project is beginning to take shape. I decided on a ram or reverse angle bow, so created the profile on styrene sheet, then cut through the centerline of the existing bow, sanded the cut just a bit, then glued the new profile piece in place. I also drew the new stern contour on cardstock as a template, traced this onto styrene, then rough trimmed the pieces before gluing them together with white glue and sanding to size. Soaking in water dissolved the glue and .060" x .060" styrene stock was glued to the edges mating to the stern. Additional pieces will be added for the bottom, new stern, and a set of stairs up the middle for easy passenger access, using the same techniques. I also removed some features from the hull sides to make everything smoother. Since the new bow contour needs to be blended and faired into the existing hull lines, I will experiment with plastic strips cut about 1/4" wide. They will be glued to the bow contour, extending slightly past the new profile, then manipulated to blend with the hull. They will be long enough to have a large enough glue surface on the hull so they can be snded and blended into the hull without a step where they end. More pix later as I figure this out. The deck has been sanded smoother (still some to do)- the grey areas are the epoxy patches I applied to the reverse relief areas underneath. I also glued in some transverse support pieces in preparation to start cutting out the passenger cockpits and the engine area. The support pieces will also be deck areas, so a second stock addition will bring them up to the deck level.

This one would look right at home in a Fast and Furious movie!

I have always used Easy off oven cleaner in the yellow can. Sometimes it needs to soak for a few days, and roughing the paint does help. Always had excellent results for stripping kit chrome- the aluminum of the chrome actually acts as a catalyst interacting with the oven cleaner. I have never tried alcohol- would Everclear 190 proof grain available in liquor stores work? Anyone tried it?

Great looking case- love the LED lighting! Looks like you enjoy building mainly high performance sports cars. As your collection grows, I assume you may be building another one?

Just traded with Tarheelrick, would trade with him again anytime!

Use a good primer over that orange! Looking forward to where this goes.

Roger, is this the part you need? If so, pm me with your address.

Horsepower, thanks for the doll house floor info.

Well, it IS the egg crate grille and... So, here are some pix of the grille progress as well as other things I have been working on. The hood has been a (insert colorful language of your choice), much more challenging than I thought it would be. I also realized I needed to do some serious development on the areas to either side of the hood, which is critical to the final fit of the grille, once additional sections to either side are added- so, lots more H section laminating and contouring, and blending with the center section, which still must be contoured to the horizontal footprint of the hood, which must be- you get the idea! I block sanded down the rear of the chassis and installed the belly pan-still needs some final shaping around the wheel wells. Between the seats I installed a buttress for a section which will run down between the seats, on top of the drive shaft tunnel, and back up to meet the bottom of the dash. The seats are done except for very minor filling and sanding. Mocked things up a bit to give you an idea of what it will look like. Since the inside door panels will be curved, I found some panels with curves- a good starting point. That's all for now, folks!