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Cool Hand

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  1. Cool Hand
    Thanks Anton. Its not 100% flat like you would see with 2k clears. Has a very slight micro orange peel. Which is easily removed with a light wet sand and polish. The type of clear I use when fully cured sands and polishes out very well. Yeah practice does help, no special method. I think its has more to do with the type of clear, thinners and airbrush. I use this brand of clear. And thin 1:1.5 with this. And use a fan cap on this airbrush at 25psi, helps to get a wider spray pattern. And being a .5 needle the output is perfect for wet coats. Thanks Bob, plan is to wet sand and polish. That should make the finish a bit smoother and more reflective 🤞
  2. Cool Hand
    Applied the clear to the LJ Torana and XY GT Falcon. So now I am nearly finished with all the paint work. The shark nose will receive its colour coat tomorrow, then I will prepare the XW's. Once the paint process is complete for those 3 I might actually try finish a build 🤣
  3. Cool Hand
    Have a newly released DDA kit incoming sometime this week, so I will build this sedan version along side it.
  4. Cool Hand
    Great looking build, excellent work on all the extra added detailing. Well done Derek.
  5. Cool Hand
    Applied the clear coat to 4 Torana bodies and components. 2 more bodies and components will have a clear coat applied tomorrow. Finally nearing the end of my painting journey, or maybe il decided to paint some more 🤣
  6. Cool Hand
    Fresh out of the 3D printer, some more centreline style wheels possibly for future builds and a new set of wheels for the Hakosuka.
  7. Cool Hand
    Painted the wheels for the midnight mist LJ.
  8. Cool Hand
    Got the wheels painted for the red LC. And mocked up the supercharger I 3D printed to see if the scale is about right and get an idea of how its going to look.
  9. Cool Hand
    Cheers mate, now im looking forward to detailing and painting the engine for LJ. All the chrome and polished aluminium will look good against the colour I think. Thanks Anton, the Torana hatch backs are great looking cars. Ive always liked the white with black outs, thats a planned idea for a future build. Yeah Bob, nothing like clear coat to bring the pearl and metallics colours to life. Will be using the Cherry Mica on a few future Holden builds.
  10. Cool Hand
    Applied the clear coat to 4 builds. The clear certainly bought this SMS paints Ice Blue pearl colour to life. Really liking this Outlaw paints Cherry Mica. Plan to apply the clear coat to a few more over the next couple days. 🤞
  11. Cool Hand
    Okay, I applied the clear coat to the A9X body and some other components today. So that will be at the front of the line for completion. Yes its a DDA kit, there is 3 versions of the LX A9X it has the fenders flares. And there is 2 versions of the LX SS, no fender flares. We all have our own method to our madness, all depends on the kit and the type of build as to when I will paint the body. With the DDA kits I prefer to paint the body after initial mock ups and setting of the stance, that way the paint will have plenty of time to fully cure, which is important if I have to wet sand and polish. And in the mean time I can work on the rest of the kit. Or paint something else. Getting the body prep and paint done first can be helpful, as its usually the most time consuming and important part of a build. After that the flow of a build is generally quick and easy to get finished. Also having 2 of the same kit allows for the unpainted kit parts to be used for test fitting during the wip stage of a build 😉 Always appreciate your kind words Steve, and appreciate you commenting and following my builds.
  12. Cool Hand
    Fresh out of the 3D printer, a set of Centreline style wheels for the Midnight Mist Purple LJ Torana and a set of Weld Draglite wheels for the red LC Torana. Also some disc Brakes for the 2010 Camaro if the size looks right in the wheels.
  13. Cool Hand
    Ha ha, all in good time mate. After the Camaro what would you like to see get built ??
  14. Cool Hand
    Applied a few coats of Mr Color GX-100 super clear iii to the 2010 Camaro, Certainly brought the pearl to life.
  15. Cool Hand
    Finally applied some paint to the XY GT Falcon.
  16. Cool Hand
    LJ's both got the colour coats applied. Have other wheels chosen for both builds, just using these for mock up. Fingers crossed the clear brings out more of the green the HQ.
  17. Cool Hand
    Thanks Bob, I got way to may idea's. Nearly time to settle down and build. Yes mate, Pro Street 1 is the inspiration for the red LC, you know where im going with some of my idea's. Finally getting around to making them a reality.
  18. Cool Hand
    @Dpate What Bill said, use a trap at the airbrush.
  19. Cool Hand
    Hope to get colour coats on these 2 LJ's and HQ over the next couple days. I have had this build planned for awhile, good to finally make some progress getting the metallic colour coat applied. And another idea and plan starting to come to life. Wheels and stance just for this mock up. Not my best black paint job, but im glad to have replaced the one I painted before I gave away. Unusual suspect.
  20. Cool Hand
    Got a few more things painted. 7 in one day not a bad effort. Applied a base coat of SMS jet black to 2 LJ's and a HQ. LC painted with Outlaw paints Teal and another LC painted with Tamiya TS-86 Pure red LJ and Camaro painted with TS-14 black
  21. Cool Hand
    Cheers Anton, I like the Japanese car culture as its different and interesting to see how they go about modifying cars. Hope to see a shark nose build from you one day. No worries mate, like I mentioned have a practice and become familiar with the SMS paint before attempting to paint the HQ and any questions just send me a message. Very versatile technique Bob, works very well when parts have sharp crisp raised detail.
  22. Cool Hand
    Very true Anton, thanks for your input and mentioning. My bad, I didnt think to bring up that up as I did not use TS Paints as an under base coat when doing over coat removal with alcohol.
  23. Cool Hand
    Mock with some different wheels, even though they are over scaled I like the look under the HQ's.
  24. Cool Hand
    Here you go Nigel @Spottedlaurel First stage of body work done, have recoated in surfacer and need to fill in all the small imperfections and blend the nose extension with some Tamiya putty. Stock oob bod 1.6mm styrene for the 12mm nose extension. 3.2x4.8mm strip to fill in the bumper recesses. .5mm styrene to extend the centre ridged. 1mm styrene strip under the tail light panel recess and 4mm tube and 3.2mm rod to fill the cut away for the exhaust
  25. Cool Hand
    Hope this helps @Steve H Any part that has well defined raised detail is best for the the technique. Like these valve covers Like always prime or as I use 1500 black surfacer. Using any lacquer based paint apply the colour you want the raised detail to be. And clear coat to seal the colour coat. And allow to fully dry/cure. For the over coat of the main colour, you can use enamel or acrylic(water or alcohol based) The Holden valve cover I used Vallejo Mecha Primer black as it has a nice satin finish. And levels out to a very smooth finish. On the 308 valve cover, I over coated with Alclad gloss black base. I applied it a little too heavy, thankfully the detail didnt get buried. Allow to dry for a couple hours, touch dry is best as it makes removal in the next step easy. These cotton swabs are the best for precise removal of paint. For the removal of the Mecha primer I used Vallejo thinner, but alcohol will work for acrylics. Just moisten the cotton swab enough to lightly swipe away the paint of the raised detail. And to remove the Alclad Gloss Black, I moisten the cotton swab with Tamiya Enamel thinner.
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