Rodent

I will probably be buying less from Burbank's in the future. I was buying MCM from them, but I just subscribed. The shipping for a magazine and one or two kits wasn't a lot more than just for the magazine, so I would add stuff to my cart, LOL. Now I will have to make a point to buy from them on occasion. My LHS charges full retail for kits, but Burbank's knocks a few dollars off of most of them. That certainly helps cover the shipping costs.

It depends on what you like to build. If you like the run-of-the-mill Revell and Round2 kits, Hobby Lobby will probably be your best bet during 40% week. If your tastes are more exotic, you will need to seek out a LHS and/or one of the online retailers mentioned above. I don't have a problem with Amazon per se, but I have found them to be more expensive than brick-and-mortar for kits so I don't even look there anymore. E-Pay can also be a good source for out of production kits.

MCM shows that 147 is available as a back issue.

Tied to Comcast / Xfinity in my neighborhood for anything reasonably fast. They know that, and don't negotiate unless you want to add home phone, mobile phone, and/or home security. A new company is supposed to be coming in and adding fiber to the entire city. Not sure how that is going to work out. The older parts with above ground utilities already have AT&T 1G fiber, and the newest parts have underground fiber. Only us "tweeners" need something better.

If you live in an area with 5G service, some of the mobile companies are now offering home internet. Not the thing if you want to stream over multiple devices (it doesn't sound like you do), it is doable if you just want to get on the internet. T-Moblie offers it in my area for $50/month and the others are similar.

Agreed. I was looking for a pic of the 15" versions to compare, but failed. I don't think the 15" were ever used without a trim ring, so I am at a loss why they are cast. I have some old resin Chrysler wheels that are cast with a separate trim ring and center. I can't find the package and don't remember who made them Probably no longer in business, but I seem to remember that they made "more detailed" versions of old musclecar OEM wheels.

Not right for sure. The part of the wheel where the valve stem goes is WAAAAY too wide and the center cap should be tapered.

This is what I see on the door: Gray Line Smoky Mountain Tours xxx (behind spare tire) Asheville, NC Knoxville TN

When I was (barely) 16, I got a gas station summer job that lasted 3 years on and off. The station owner was married to Sam's widow Joyce. A very sweet, classy lady and I got to meet her children with Sam (Johnny and Pam). At the time, I was naive enough to not know that there was another "Barris" other than George, so my boss had to explain it to me..... I replaced a headlamp in Don Tognotti's Lamborghini Espada during that employment as well.

than flying fish

There is no reason to eat Taco Bell when you live in California. Unless you are baked and it's midnight.....

Agreed, but just maybe. I have had 15+ lacquer cans fail and one enamel. It may just be when the cans were made, IDK. Like many of us, I used to like the OEM color line and stupidly bought too many just to hoard.

Anyone built any of the campers with 3D printed or resin wheels/tires? I have all three kits, and even though I have no idea when they will be built, I am thinking that I would like to modernize them with 2022 wheels and tires, Fuchs, or something like that. Looking for a look like if they were restored in the modern era. I am not looking to do a lot of modifications but would like a tasteful update. I would especially like to update the T2 and T3.

Car shopping has changed. A lot. It's not 2019 anymore, and it may not be 2019 ever again. I hope that I don't get hit and have to spend 4-8 months driving the S-10 until I can score a replacement daily driver.

Yes, the lacquer cans seem to die like that. I have 35+ year old enamels that are fine.

Yesterday, a red 1969 Impala SS427, complete with the class 4 trailer hitch that it seems like all big-engined full-size cars had back in the day. I might be able to get some pics from my dash cam. I am still hacking the unburned hydrocarbons out of my lungs from he entered the freeway ahead of me.

the Palmer factory

through beer goggles

"Best Car" does not equal "Favorite Car" IMHO. "Best Car" suggests at least a bit of reliability and durability. My first new car was a Fox body 5.0 Mustang. Had a few issues at the beginning, including being cursed with the "paper" heater core that failed every 25-30k miles. Was fun to drive with a few mods. Around 80k miles, it straightened itself out and became dead reliable, except for the fact that I never had a battery that lasted more than 2 years. I sold it with nearly 190k on the clock to a new arrival from New Hampshire that had sold his before moving in hopes of finding one here that hadn't been in the salt. He was amazed and thrilled that everything worked, windows, locks, cruise, A/C, etc. He hit and killed a small dog in the neighborhood on our test drive (dog and owner's fault), but bought the car anyway. Next day, I got a call that he ran over a piece of rebar and destroyed a tire. Wanted to know where I got the tires so he could source a replacement. California chewed him up and spit him out as often happens, so he and my ex-car went back East. I am sure it has either been crushed by now or is sitting in a field with no floor pans. My 68 Mustang and 70 Cutlass convertible were definitely "favorites" but not necessarily "best". The original owner of the Cutlass spent about $4k in miscellaneous repairs (1980 dollars) before I bought the car for $1600.00 My E30 325is was certainly a "favorite" car (by both of us) but in no way was a "best" car. Sold it with about 180k IIRC to a BMW nut. Was still in excellent condition. Minor mods, a hoot to drive unless it was over 90 degrees F. A/C sucked. We had a 1995 Altima that needed absolutely nothing except regular maintenance and wear parts until around 130k, then EVERYTHING started falling apart. Alternator died, radiator disintegrated, A/C clutch wore to the point that it wouldn't engage half of the time, internal distributor seal failed and filled the (horizontal) distributor with oil which is bad with an optical distributor that relies on a series of slots in a metal plate to make the car run. Guess that would have been a "best" car if we had sold it sooner. My 2005 Legacy GT 5mt was a hoot to drive, but was plagued with stupid problems and a dealer's service department that couldn't fix anything without multiple attempts. Banished/rehomed to Washington with only 67k. A/C sucked on that one as well. My current driver is a 2016 Mazda3S Grand Touring 6mt. Has about 85k now and no real issues so far that cost $$. Mileage is pretty good, it's fun to drive especially with the RacingBeat springs and Konis I installed last summer. Got a catalyst efficiency code just before 80k. Dealer replaced the main cat (manivertor) under emission warranty and gave me a CX-5 to drive while they had my car. I think this may be my "best" car so far. Pic before the springs/Konis.

Just ordered #213 from Burbank's House of Hobbies, and included a kit. This is getting too expensive, so I just subscribed as well. Glad there are issues getting out there on a regular basis now.

not like R.B.G.

nudist, but tried

67 had a QuadraPit. Joseph makes very nice ones, including B.O.P. versions if you want to go that far. Not sure about the chrome louvered air cleaner that it probably had though.

Yes. People keep running into my 1:1 S10 and several parts of it like the rear bumper beam and some miscellaneous trim parts are painted (gloss) black with Duplicolor rattle cans. Steve G understood what I was saying. I have difficulty with hobby paint nozzles in the rare occurrence that I build a larger scale kit. I can't get a smooth finish on a larger area with Tamiya or Model Master, the paint seems to flash too fast no matter what the temperature. I just think that the larger fan nozzles of the Duplicolor cans would be an advantage with a large scale body, especially 1/8. I have painted 1/24 and 1/25 bodies with Duplicolor as well, but not often. They work fine, but the metallic colors can be a bit out of scale.

Since the Duplicolor rattle cans are designed to paint 1:1 parts, I think their nozzles are better suited to painting large scale models than hobby paint nozzles are.