bisc63

Ha! Good catch; now I'm embarrassed to lump Barris in with a talent like DJ! Thanks Nazz!

Never been a model kitted that couldn't be fixed like that! For that reason, I always thought Pyro had the most fitting and deserving name for a model company.

Very realistic finishing! Looking forward to more...

I remember mixing the little bottles of Testors Jade green and green to paint Aurora's Creature From The Black Lagoon! ( circa 1973) Loves me some Jade Green.

Check out the "All The Rest" forum here, a fellow posted an Airstream resin kit, painted with Krylon Foil over a gloss black base. VERY shiny; now I want some for a ww2 mustang or two!

In the video, the front end looks much more "pinched " in the frontal view, as if the grille inserts need to be sectioned a bit. Any info on how Barris did this? I seem to recall reading that the grilles were stock, but they look tapered and sectioned to me. Any way, I love watching your builds, and this one is no different for that! Another point; does anyone make correct gold foil decals for the doors? The real ones are much cooler than AMT's "interpretations".

Just beautiful craftsmanship; top notch work!

Sweet looking rod! Chassis is looking good. Sticking with white for the color of the Nomad?

I've done this before, using a single edge razor blade, and finishing with a coarse file to fine-tune. REALLY helps on those old Monogram 1/24 kit tires. There's also something oddly satisfying when you set the model down; it just feels more..sturdy? stable?

Looks like AMT should have just done the tail piece as one big chromed piece, and let us flow red between the ribs in the tail lamp area. That would be a nice one for a talented 3D printer to take on! Snake, if you get those original headlight assemblies cast, you can put me down for a couple; I think they'd move quickly.

That's a very attractive color, and Plowboy's is very close, and looks great. Another alternative is to go here and buy a 1 oz. bottle of the actual paint (Chrysler Tangerine Pearl): https://www.paintscratch.com/cgi-bin/order-form.cgi

Just outstanding work!

Steven, the '66 box states a 425 engine, but you can change the induction system and air cleaner decal with parts box extras or aftermarket pieces to represent any of the available engines, since externally they appear the same, being based on the same block casting. The chassis is nicely done, but should be 2 scale inches too long for a '63, as I think they rode on a 117" wheelbase, whereas '66-'70 were on a 119" wheelbase. Easy enough modification, especially on a X-frame; just take it out of the center area, and shorten floor pan to match. If you want to see what's in the box, here's a nice video peek:

That is such a cool idea, and a thoughtful memorial to your friend. Well done!

Nice work on that kit, especially like your interior!

That chrome finish is a real budget friendly alternative, at least it appears so to me; very impressive finish! You already had me sold on the flake, it is SO 60s-early 70s custom perfect. The flakes appear scale correct for that "bass boat" look! Thanks for the report, Snake!

VERY stylish in red! My dad had one that was "T-bird Green", at least that's what he called it. Green inside and out, and felt like you were driving an aircraft carrier. Loved it. It was so much fun watching the creative process as this came together on the workbench, and the finished product exceeds all expectations, which were high! Can't wait 'til it's available!

Oh, this is NICE! Make it as nice as you can, the Revell parts are beautiful, and this straight body will display magnificently.

I got a Glitterbug that needs this!

Progressing nicely!

This one has just been SO much fun for me to watch!

Just funky enough to work! Needs miles-deep paint.

That flake paint is right on old-school Metalflake-looking; I dig it!

Just caught that these are already built, so so much for dry fitting! I'd carefully pry off the breather top and/or carb, separate the pieces and start sanding. You might dry a Dremel or other motor tool to thin the backside of the breather as well. Take your time, it can work just fine; the hood WILL close!

+1, this is a common hair-pulling issue in model cars, and a real peeve of many. I ran into the same issue with that very kit, and carefully filing the bottom and top surfaces of the carb(s) to a perfectly flat surface, as well as truing up the top of the intake a bit did the trick for me. It underscores the basic need to dry-fit before committing to glue! You may need to sand a bit on the breather, that area that's interfering with the hood represents a rubber seal that in real life touches the hood to guide cool air in from the scoops instead of hot air from under the hood. The fit should be close, but not tall enough to hold your hood open as you've found. Good luck!