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Depending on what style you're wishing to build there is no reason you couldn't use wheels from most any other kit. You could use painted steel wheels or chrome. Looking at the options from all the kits out there I'm sure you could find something you like better. Save the Foose wheels for a future build of something else or trade with some on the forum.

Your real estate market may be like ours and from what I have seen most everyone else. Unless you want to pay north of $225.00 per square foot you're not going to get a really good quality build, at least in this area. The materials not to mention the craftsmanship just isn't what it was 20 years ago when we built our previous home. The old house was a custom build and not what I call a "track house". Even in top condition with zero defects according to their building inspection, 1/2 an acer over looking a 24 acer lake and that only brings $150.00 to $158.00 per square foot used. Not counting the lot this home could not be reproduced for that price. So depending on what your life style needs are you may be better looking at a late model home that fits your needs and end up with a better built home in the end. New homes are great in many ways but you have to look at what you're getting for your money. For just the two of us this works fine. The down stairs addition, completing a half bath by adding a shower and finishing a portion of the basement as a bedroom, which was an option the builder offered, will raise the value of the home by more than the cost of the improvements and I get my model room back just like the old house. I sure miss that oversized three car garage though. Good luck to you no matter which way you go.

I have heard people in the Low Ridder style refer to the low in the back look as "Motor Boating" .

I built one of these Resin Fastbacks a couple of years ago. Some of the problems I ran into with the one I did had to do with the clearance in several areas between the Chassis plate and the Resin body. One of the areas can be seen in your picture showing bottom side with the chassis going into the body. The resin body is thicker on the inside so any place the chassis plate touches the inside of the body there will be fitment issues. Looks like you have already corrected the mounting in the front fender area. Another contact area that I found made it hard to adjust the chassis was the inside of the rear fenders where they curve toward the body on the leading edge. In the kit this also serves to retain the chassis plate, but with the resin body being thicker it distorts the body when you try and install the chassis. The area of the chassis plate where the inner wheel wells will also need some trimming, again the narrower resin body. I must have pulled the two apart twenty times before I got it to fit the way I wanted. Another thought when you get to the interior. Your going from a short roof coupe to a longer sedan body style. In mine I moved the rear seat as far back as I could with the kits interior and then constructed the large rear package tray out of sheet plastic. I cut up a bunch of cards making a templet but it's not all that difficult. This does build into a great looking model and well worth the efforts.

The new tail light lenses look perfect with the size of the housing. This is a Kustom so feel free to wonder away from the instructions.

Someone should try and save that '58 Buick. The trim and Bumpers all look good. The Interior is a real surprise for it's condition. Even if you had to go thru the engine it would be worth it. I'll bet it got parked because the Dyno Flow started leaking and or slipping. A trans. filter change alone may go a long way.

I know it can be hard to resist putting to much paint in the brush when you're going to do some fine detailing. Think about alternative applicators beyond even a very fine brush. Just a few that I have used, and there are many others as well, I will often us a simple pointed wooden tooth pick at times. I will even get the paint from the inside of the cap since the paint isn't deep enough to get very much paint on the tooth pick when I dip it. I have used some ink pens that are usually used for drafting drawings. These can be found at both Hobby Lobby and Office Depot along with others. There are many colors available and very easy to control with little or no cleanup. The good thing is I'm sure there will be many others who will offer ideas that they have used. Maybe we'll both learn something new.

Beautiful looking Bel Air. Nice to see this as a showroom style build. Very clean looking foil trim.

Very nice looking paint work. Chassis looks good as well.

The two framing guys showed up at 8 am Wednesday and had the Bathroom opened up and the whole area framed for the addition and cleaned up the area by 2pm. Man these guys are good.

Looks great. I like his use of color on the interior. The body proportions look just a little odd, like the wheel base might be a little longer placing the rear tires further back than stock. That said it looks good and what is stock here anyway. This is a Hot Rod and a great looking one as well.

Great find on this long out of production Ford. The body looks very nice and your upgraded chassis should look more accurate as well.

Nice Blue color, looks somewhat like the Ford Washington Blue of that era. Fat Fendered Fords look great in the darker colors to my eye anyway.

Very creative. I like what looks like rear side brake vents shaping up.

A thought on your Hood and Air Cleaner contact. The 1:1 cars had a pretty close clearance in this area as well. Not all, but often the manufactures would leave an opening in the under Hood insulation directly over the Air Cleaner. Those that didn't it would be common to see a slightly crushed area in the insulation where the Air Cleaner made contact with the Hood. I like how you have strived to make your build as much like a stock car as possible.

I like your rear script idea. I'm watching how you're doing the wood portion of the body. I have had an idea like this for some time but on a later bodied car. So I have liked watching your wood work on this.

Great looking paint finish.

Great looking scooter. That is a pretty color.

I wonder how the drive explained this to the dispatcher? Could be a carrier ending move.

I have only had to ask Revell to replace very few damaged items in the past but they have always been good about it.

Finally getting started on our basement project. We've been waiting over four months for the remodeler to get an opening to do the upgrades we wanted in our basement. We had downsized our home after the first of the year and moved into a much smaller Villa, that's Realtor speak for a duplex, The basement has a small finished living room and a half bath now. We're having a shower added to the bathroom and finishing a bedroom with an egress window that will become my model room. At this point in life while I miss the old "big house" and the grounds, taking care of it all was becoming more than we wanted to deal with any longer. They even mow and edge, weed and feed, and anything needed in the yard. I just fill the bird feeders and watch the golfers go by from the covered patio. Life isn't half bad at the edge of the prairie.

Made me look. I also just picked up this model a week ago. I hadn't looked inside yet as I usually do since I'm not going to build it right now. Luck was on my side as mine is ok. Hopefully this is an isolated issue, I know that doesn't help you guys or anyone else, but maybe not all of them have this problem. Revell should offer a replacement windshield in this case.

I like the crew cab conversion and the bed as well. The crusty finish is very realistic looking .

Looks great and a lot of sparkle in the paint. You wouldn't think you had any problems with this build to look at the finished model.

Great looking style. Great paint work and the fabric roof idea is really well done. The wheels and white walls fit the build style perfectly.