espo

Love it. I like the way you modified the grill bar without the emblem. I don't think I have ever seen that done that way before. The front bumper without the "Dagmars" looks a lot cleaner also. These two mods clean up how the front end looks.

I'll have to look for one of these. I'd like to do a model of our '19 Charger GT. I might have to do a little work on the front facial but nothing to radical and you have the correct deck lid spoiler for our model also. I can change the wheels and tires since ours are the 235/55x19's.

As Rodent pointed out the step-side truck bodies with a two tone paint was with the roof only painted a different color from the factory. Dealers were free to do something special if the customer requested. The factory did offer a few striping options starting around the '76 model year and this was done in white with striping on the hood, front fenders and doors, with additional striping on the flat surface of the rear fenders. This was an option on the midline Scottsdale model. The Scottsdale included the Silverado seats and bucket seats were an option but with rubber floor covering. Carpet was an extra cost option. The instrument cluster face was done in black plastic like the basic Custom model. The Silverado and the earlier Chayanne Super were the only ones with the simulated wood grain dash finish. The fuel tank and the optional duel tanks were mounted out board of the frame rails and did hang low enough that they could be partially seen from some angles. As for lowering the suspension this was normally done with replacement spindles that would usually give you at least two inches of drop. Many would add shorter front springs for an additional inch or two. The rear would either have longer shackles for an inch or two lowering in the rear. To make it any lower required , and kits to do this are still available, mounting the rear differential on top of the rear springs instead of the factory mounting below the springs. This would require what was called a "C notch" in the frame for clearance for the differential. I wish I had pictures of a few of the trucks I had owned from that era to show you what it would look like but I think if you went into Google and request pictures of the era of truck you're wanting to build you would have many examples to look at.

I have to agree with everyone else on the Mercury and the colors look perfect for the time period. I remember having an Oldsmobile toy with a friction motor and no interior in the same body style as your model. I removed the friction motor and flipped the metal chassis over to lower it and I must have repainted that thing a dozen times, it was my favorite at the time.

I really like how you did the records. The setup with the picture, I'm guessing, of the band on the screen reminds me of a player that used to be in some "drinking establishments" that I may have visited long ago. What they had was a larger Juke Box with a TV type screen mounted on top. I think they used to call it a Scope a Tron or something like that. You would play a selection and it showed a music video of the artist that was playing. Great idea here, along with everything else you've done on this build.

Super clean and shinny looking finishes.

I have been watching your build and half hoped you would stay with the Orange plastic. Your build, do it your way. I like how you got the front sub frame tucked up to lower the front suspension. Moving the front axel mounts on the spindles shouldn't be a problem. I have even used Wire Brads as replacement axels and they're much stronger than the kits plastic axels. The Brads can be found at any hardware store or Home Depot. A couple of bucks will get you a life time supply.

I stopped by my normal local hobby shop yesterday after hearing that this issue was out. They hadn't yet seen or heard about it yet. In the past it used to bother me that having a subscription meant that it was on the news stand at least a couple of weeks before it was in my mail box. Let me say that I'm thrilled to see that this issue is out there, now I just need to get one. I think in view of what all has happened lately with print magazines and the model magazines in particular this should , and I hope, will be a successful magazine.

I have been reading this post with some interest. I haven't experienced any of these problems until a couple of days ago. I needed a high performance looking small block for my current build. I have a few older Revell '69 Camaro Z-28 kits and I'm using the engine from one of those kits. The one I robbed the engine out of happened to be done in blue plastic. The instruction sheet is dated 1990 and that is the only reference I can find to determine how old the kit really is. What I noticed as I was removing different parts from the parts trees was just how brittle the plastic was. This was especially true when I was removing the carbs. and valve covers from the chrome tree. I don't recall this ever happening to me before on a regular white plastic kit. I wonder if this has to do with the quality of the plastics used at that time, the use of chemicals to color the plastic blue, or what ?? I have redone some older models that date back over thirty years and no such issues.

While somewhat informative he does seem to struggle with the names of the different mechanical components represented on the parts trees.

Sounds like the chassis and engine are based on the old GMC Typhoon AWD kit. Not all bad but like you said it's not an S-10.

I didn't realize that. I have built the regular kit and I have this one in the closet, but it has been there for a long time and I haven't looked inside since I bought it years ago.

Very menacing looking. While the color is not what you would first expect on this type of build it sure works here with the trim you used. The top almost looks like it has been chopped in the low side view.

Great looking paint finish and color. This has to be one of the best looking family cars ever. I like how you kept the engine looking like an OEM finish without all the chrome.

You don't even notice the paint issues you mentioned in your build post. All the trim looks great. I like how you changed the rear suspension and setup the differential and the exhaust.

All of your 1956 builds look great. Looks forward to 1957 and beyond.

Beautiful looking paint finish and color. The interior is especially nice. Great cleanly detailed engine as well.

Your floor pan cleaned up nicely and new lines look more realistic. I'll be getting one of those grinders, it looks like it might be handy for small work like this.

I look forward to your build on this. I have always been a fan of this kit and despite it's age I think it still represents the '57 Ford well. You mentioned the fitment on the door hinges. Besides a little sanding for clearance my only suggestion would be to consider replacing the plastic hinge pins with some sort of a metal pin. This should reduce the natural binding that takes place between the two plastic surfaces and would ad some strength to the pin its self. I removed the roof on one I built years ago to make a model of a Convertible that I owned years ago.

Your problem almost sounds as if the interior floor boards that would sit on top of the frame are not contacting the body ??

This really looks great and I like the color scheme you describe and I see what you mean about the picture showing it more as a grey color. The trim all looks good with the vinyl roof. I like how you displayed the engine.

Beautiful looking paint finish and I like the clean chrome trim.

OK thanks. For some reason I was thinking it was a '69 body style.

They were as good as it got in the middle of the last century. I have done exhaustive burger research since then in several different states and have even tried my hand at making some awesome home made burgers for which I have received some acclaim beyond my family. Childhood memories are always better than fact I have found.

Didn't Round 2 just reissue a '69 Impala kit a few months ago ??