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Wanted to get some supplies for the yard. Tried to cash in a couple hundred dollars worth of points on the Capital 1 card. They have shut down their rewards program. They don't offer any information about the future of the program either. Hmm. Not trying to start anything," but its my money and I want it now."

Amazing body work.

I really like the color treatment on the body. I'll keep looking in to see how this builds out.

I would like a kit of the #41 Dodge as a tow door post car. I'm sure it would never happen based on how many the manufacture would sell, but I would like one all the same.

I know it's been a long time but I just saw this and was wondering if it got completed ? I like the design ideas on this.

I would be in on a Biscayne also but Revell already had the Impala molds and with a little change in trim we have this new and improved version. I have seen pictures of MCW's Resin Biscayne that was based off of the AMT Bel Air kit and who ever did the master must know their Biscayne's since the roof looks correct. The big bonus on all of these new reissues is that Revell is pouring a lot of extra goodies in the box.

Great looking build. I appreciate the wheel treatment information. They look great and sometimes you just don't always realize what all the builder did to present the appearance like these.

Great looking build and highly detailed thru out. A little surprised he raced with the number 13 since there was a lot of superstition about that number in most forms of racing.

Beautiful looking Boss. I also don't like most of the Fake Spoilers that Detroit used in that era, it seemed like their only purpose was to destroy the flowing lines of the body design and were not functional anyway.

Great looking paint and design. You got the "motor boat" stance down. The Wire Wheels look perfect.

I like your color choice and the finish looks great. I also have always liked the Post Cars.

The automatic transmission used in the Pontiac Tempest line including the GTO for '64 - '67 was a 2 speed version of the Turbine 300 that was used in the Buick and Oldsmobile models of the same era. From the outside they look very much like a GM Turbo 350 Automatic.

Brushes are a very integral part of building models. I suggest basing your brush selection on past experience and don't hesitate to spend a little extra to get a design that works best for you. I think the proper care of the brushes is just as important. I can only give you an idea of what I do, I'm sure that there are many here that do things a little different, and again it's up to you. I have two sets of brushes that I use and that is based on the type of paint I'm using. I use two different brands of paint, Tamiya and Model Masters. They are both quality products but offer some unique finishes that are different from one another. My cleaning process is much the same between the different sets up to a point. First I'll draw the excess paint off of the brush by running it lightly over a paper towel to remove any excess paint from the brush. Next I'll hold the brush in a container of water and gentle swirl the brush and never let it sit with the bristles resting on the bottom of the container. Next is the only difference that I use. The Model Master paints are next cleaned in that brands brush cleaner and the same for Tamiya I use their cleaner for those brushes. Then I draw the brush against another paper towel to draw out any remaining cleaning fluids. I realize this is a long drawn out bit of information that you didn't really ask about. But I give it because I feel that no matter what brush you select it's care and maintenance are the most important part to keep a brush performing the way you want and last for years. You may already be doing all or some of these things now, and if you have an idea that may be better I would like to learn about that also.

Well done and very believable looking.

That's a great looking chassis. You might consider just starting with a flat sheet of plastic for the firewall, or will the firewall from the Wagon Rod work ?

Same here. I figure that most of these new rules are in our best interest but if they only follow them half the time they're becoming the problem and not the solution.

Kansas has low alcohol content Beer that can be sold in Super Markets, and full strength is sold only in Liquor Stores only. Any other liquor needs including Wine are at Liquor Stores only. The Liquor Store Lobby is afraid that if the markets start selling booze they'll put them out of business. A new liquor store opened near the house a couple of years ago and now you can go to a drive up window just like Mc Donald's and get what ever you want with out getting out of your car. How smart is that ?

Sorry to here about his passing. This stuff can sneak up on anybody.

Very realistic looking finishes thru out. The bed looks like some very old dried out wood. I like the touch's like the big mud flaps and just the right amount of surface rust on the inner fenders.

We have a habit of keeping a couple of pounds of ground meat in 1lb. packages and steaks plus different cuts of chicken in the freezer. The stores that do sell Wine or low % "fairy pee" Beer seem to have plenty here. Kansas has some pretty archaic liquor sale laws.

Beautiful reproduction of an actual '32. I remember some magazine coverage of that show and pictures of this roadster in there.

I like how you did the front and rear roll pans. Nice two tone paint finish and I like the Street Racer look.

Great looking finish and detailing, it's really held up well.

I like the background accessories in your pictures. Great job on the Carson Top. That was in some of the earlier issues of the convertible as a partial and a full top. Shame they don't offer those options anymore. The paint color looks good on your custom with a nice finish. The interior looks like something out of the "little pages" of Rod & Custom Magazine.

I like your little T here. The paint finish looks great. Does this body have the option of being a panel ? The reason I ask is the hinges and what looks like a door handle on the back. You mentioned what might be done for your headlights. I would suggest a clear over the headlight lens. I have used Future and Tamiya X-22 Clear with good results with either.