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I would be interested depending on which ones you have. I now have the Revell Mustang LX from a couple of years ago that had the CHP option. The '48 Ford coupe has some generic type decals and I have a set I bought from Chimneyville Hobbies some time ago. I'm trying to replicate a '50's era CHP car using the '50 Oldsmobile as a basis. I've only been able to find one old b@w photo on line and it isn't the best quality photo anyway. If you have something you think would look better yes I would be interested and thank you for your offer.

That's a great deal.

If you told me it was a custom Ford Mustang or Torino I wouldn't argue that. Who ever did this rebody of a Firebird did a beautiful job with the body and to my untrained eye it looks like it could be a Ford product.

For what it's worth my new '74 Chevrolet CC1500 short step side with the 454 engine was painted a red/orange color.

If you're looking at using either a Cream color or the Butternut Yellow I would lean toward the Yellow. This is a personal opinion based on the color being light enough to not shout at you but has enough contrast to show the models body lines. One point that many forget with a loaded question such as this is that not everyone sees a color the same way. By that I mean the shade or depth of color will look different to different people. So what body style and era are you building since that can change a color decision also ?

I use a Dremel Multi Pro model #395, I have had it so long I don't even remember when I bought it but I know it had to be over 20 years ago. The operating range on the side of the unit shows 8000 to 35000 RPM. The rheostat has numbers from zero to 10. Working on plastic models I usually run it no more than 3 and usually around the 1 or 2 mark. At close to 35000 RPM I've cut wood moldings for a flooring job in our house. This thing will get wood smoking pretty good if that's what you want.

I also like the Flames and the paint work also. Nice interior details. I haven't seen anyone use the Royal Lancer Hub Caps for a while, very keeping with the them of the build.

The thing to remember with BJ or any other Auction of this nature is that they didn't build these cars and they don't inspect them either. The Lots are owned by individuals or Dealers and are on consignment for the Auction company to sell. BJ and the others collect a commission from both the seller and the buyer to pay for the dog and pony show in TV for fun and profit. They tell the bidders up front that the sales are AS-IS and it's up to the buyer to do a visual inspection prior to bidding. I sold a pick up that I had fixed up, I had bought it new, a few years ago at the Mecum Auction here in KC. The Dealer from Nebraska that bought it got a screaming deal on it considering what it was. But I still got more than any locals here would pay for it and a little more than the Dealer where we had ordered our new car was willing to give us in trade. There are some deals to be had in my opinion but you still have to look for signs that the consigner isn't just putting lip stick on a pig.

Great body work on this. Makes you wonder why Mopar didn't offer something like that back then. It can be hard to make the transition between the rear window and a sedan tail light and bumper look right but you were able to make it look factory. I like how you have the body and trim looking like a Hi Performance edition of a wagon with after market wheels and tires. The rear wind deflectors add to the OEM look of the body.

This looks great, especially when you consider it's humble beginnings. The surface rust looks perfect. The Blanket Seat cover looks right here.

I use a section of soft foam rubber that is 12" long and 5" wide for just this sort of work. The bottom side is slightly wider for stability and the top side has two valleys running length wise so that the model can be positioned and held in place by the texture of the foam. This works great when applying Decals or foiling body trim. I think I got it from Micro parts catalog years ago. Inexpensive and you just bang it on your pants leg to dislodge anything clinging to it. I like your engineering on this and it serves the same purpose and cost next to nothing in parts.

Maybe a Flat Black or with a very light Semi Gloss top coat since were talking about a model car with all the trim removed. What little light that is reflected just hints to the body lines.

Your link to the first spray booth is what I have been using for a few years. I would like a larger one but in reality it isn't needed. The booth would be a wise investment for many reasons not the least of which is getting the fumes out of your kitchen. Most booths that I have seen have some sort of exhaust hose to vent the fumes away. In your second link I have to wonder what the manufacture was thinking of with the exhaust pointed at the user. My suggestion would be to use a length of exhaust hose that is designed for a cloths dryer. I use a flexible metal type hose and use the ring type clamps to secure it to the Spray Booth. This should be easily found at any home building supply type store. With the type of paint you mentioned that you're using a small face mask covering your nose and mouth may be acceptable. Getting into some of the more exotic automotive based paint then you should really think about a more professional breathing system. You really should have some sort of lung protection no matter what you're spraying.

I apologize since some of my interaction with others here and soon I realize that we're getting off of the question you were asking. I agree with Plowboy as having the best way to accomplish what you're after. Both of these kits are the same scale so that shouldn't be a problem. I would suggest making the cut lines for the roof removal slightly below the body trim below the side windows. My thought is that this would give you a good area to do any reinforcing of the roof and this would be clear of the interior panels also. One nice bonus is you can also make a nice '56 Hardtop with the '55 roof section. Please post your build I would like to see how that goes.

Very interesting looking body. The roof doesn't seem to share any lines with the original plus it's a Hard Top.

Good luck on your CHP Dodge, I would like to see that build. My deal is a '50 Olds CHP car and I have decals from Chimneyville Hobbies and the Mustang LX coupe from Revell.

That's what I had in mind. A couple of years ago I wanted to make a model of the '67 El Camino I had for many years, see my Avatar. I used the Revell kits '66 El Camino for the basic body. I removed the front Fenders and Hood and then removed the same body panels from the '67 Chevelle 396 SS kit. They do not directly interchange the way they do on the 1:1. Besides the lower body side sculpture being different, the Firewall and inner Fenders are done differently also. This is why I was suggesting study everything carefully be fore you start cutting. I'm sure you are able of this transformation but I just encourage anyone doing this as it can go wrong.

I think 89AKurt makes a very good point about the ability of changing many parts between these kits. The '57 was almost a stand alone body in many ways. The '55 and '56 are closer together but even those were limited on some major body panels. Depending on how much body work you're comfortable doing it can always be done. There're even differences between the Revell '55 Hardtop and the '56 210 sedan and the earlier Revell/Monogram kits. I would hold the two bodies side by side and just study how they different or not before you get out the saw.

Maybe a fully built Flat Head. Besides the after market the old AMT '49 Merc coupe has everything you would need.

On Friday we had Rain and then Ice/Rain mix. Went to bed and out side the deck had 1/4" plus Ice and the same or more on the trees and streets. Got up Satruday morning and it was like it never happened. Everything was dry with 20 to 30 mph winds and colder than sour Owl, well you know.

Love the Chiefs and we're astatic that they won again. My only fear is if they lay back like the last two games they may have a hard time putting away the 49'rs. I watched the Packer - 49er game and while neither team would be a walk in the park the 49'rs should not to be dismissed by any means.

Beautiful looking build. I like the shape of the top and the chopped windshield. The rear 3/4 view really shows off how nice it looks.

If you haven't already, put the hand painted white walls in the Super Clean also. I do this even with new tires as it gets rid of some of the shine on the sidewalls.

Great looking haul. If the MPC Dodge is going to be anything other than a CHP I would be interested in the decals, maybe I have something to trade that will help you.

Go to the Contest Section of the Forum and inter your information. Please remember to share any photos of the show afterwards. Besides sharing your photos may build additional interest for the following year.