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What Did You Accomplish Today? (Model Car Work)


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Just poured two new molds and got them into the pressure pot - '62 Newport front seat and headlight lenses, Buick nailhead stock valve covers (for the '63 Riviera) corrected with flanges added, and original issue '65 GTO steelies. Also got axle pins ready for the Newports - countersunk the lowered car's set to clear the engine, and remade the stock version's pins after I had to drill out the old ones. Bit by bit...

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Look A Squirrel ? 

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I have been working at completing the Jeepster, which is at that “glue a part and wait” stage. I had my Jeep parts box nearby. Years ago I bought a bag of broken old Jeeps at a show. This one happened to be the worst in the bag.. an old white plastic version (Matches my Mork & Mindy version), but not sure if it’s an even older release.  

Some kid has built it without any paint but an over abundance of glue. The axle ends were all broken off. It just got my attention, so I pulled it apart and started sanding. The above photo is the body with gray primer.

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I had no idea what color to paint it so I decided to go random.. as I went out yesterday to buy beer, I would paint it to match the first Jeep I saw.. as I was turning out of my development I had to wait as an orange Jeep drove by.. so be it! Above photo is the body painted with Chevy engine orange.

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And here we are right now. I cut the broken axles off their centers and cut new ones from Evergreen rod. I glued them back into the chassis and then sprayed that whole mess flat black. 

I painted the engine Jeep blue and drilled it for wiring. I made a distributor and glued it on. I will complete the wiring tomorrow.

Body was sprayed with Testors Dullcote and it’s all ready for some weathering and rusting. This puppy was missing the hood and tailgate. No worries, she’s going to be a non running project car.

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Which led me to a trailer. This is the one last seen in the Fireball 500 kit. I didn’t like the hokey double axle setup so I reverted back to single axle, which was really too far forward, so I relocated the axle back some.  

To be continued...

Edited by Tom Geiger
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On 12/27/2020 at 5:27 PM, ChrisBcritter said:

Just poured two new molds and got them into the pressure pot - '62 Newport front seat and headlight lenses, Buick nailhead stock valve covers (for the '63 Riviera) corrected with flanges added, and original issue '65 GTO steelies.

Steelies turned out fine. Newport mold had an odd twist at the bottom - the base curled a bit from air pressure but the seat seems OK. Running 50 psi in the tank, like Tom P. always did - too much, I guess? Either way I'll use .040 for the base next time.

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A bit more progress on my second Jeep.  But last night right before bed I wanted to retire with the image of this up on wheels in my head.  

As i carefully pressed the last wheel onto it, the spindly front axle exploded into pieces! Broke the end off, tore the leaf spring with it! Argh! Back to my “one step forward, two back” theme of lately!

This morning I pulled out a fresh axle and realized the broken one was larger (no doubt why the engine wouldn’t sit on its pins), and I see that the original builder used the rear axle up front!  So at least now I have it correct. 
 

 

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Here we are right now.. recovered from the front axle debacle and we are now up on wheels. The body isn’t glued down, still have to drop engine unit into chassis first.

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Rear view.. tail lights from parts cabinet. I have a drawer marked “Round Things” that I found two suitable bezels. Lenses came from the “Red Clear Parts” drawer. 

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Top view - interior just needs steering wheel and some details. Should be able to push this one up on a trailer this week.

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I've nearly finished to two I'm working on at the moment, one being a 3D Ruckus Scooter, which is a wash and paint as it's all in one piece, and the other is a Heller Citroen Mehari kit.

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test fitting the roof.

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Among other details, today I polished a windshield for a rehab I am working on.  There were glue slobs on it, so I started with an x-acto and lightly took the glue down, then sanded with 600 to start....   I was not expecting exact results, and didn't get them as the glue from 30 plus years was etched into the clear plastic.  So I started with the 2400, 3200, then the 3600 and all the way to finish.  It is good enough for what I am doing.

 

Screen Polishing.jpg

Edited by steveracer
because
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Model Car Repair Shop Day here- 

Chassis fit was poor on my Falcon stocker so I did some trimming until it fit well. Then glued back in place and remounted rear bumper.

My Foose pickup was done for the 24 Hr Build and funky things happen when you’ve been at it 20 hours and are sleep deprived. I had two wheels / tires on wrong axle. Managed to coax them off and reattached correctly. No more wobble!

Both are back on display shelves. A relaxing day and got a few things accomplished.

Edited by Tom Geiger
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"Close enough for jazz and government work" red color on an '88-era NASCAR differential. This was after an abortive attempt to get a color closer to a rusty red out of a dead can. Turns out this Krylon color in a light coat looks good enough for me on the black plastic. Last time I built one of these stock cars in 1987, I followed Monogram's paint callout for a gunmetal color (7th photo down in this series, all I had was silver), but it turns out these tended to be reddish, as seen in this '88 Miller Regal photo collection.

Quote

curiousmodeler sez:
You're going to put the right body on whatever you're building this time, right?

Oh, yeh. It'll have a definitely identifiable GM body on it, no worries about that.

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Edited by Russell C
typo
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I'm back at work today, but trying to maximise the Christmas/New Year holiday as much as possible I got some paint down on this pair yesterday and before 7am this morning:

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AMT Corvette ZR-1 lurking at the back doesn't have a WIP thread, it's just a quick curbside build after I robbed the engine for the Impala. Needs a gentle sanding and clearcoat.

Impala got its first couple of coats. Wet sanding then another couple of coats should do it. As hoped, looks like it should give a good shine without clearcoat.

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Got some more work done on the 50 Ford engine and experimented with weathering an old cab. Going to try the salt technique tomorrow so I had to get the base down today. This may end up as a future "abandoned drag pickup" build.

Later-

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Edited by Modlbldr
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Tom, your pickup cab looks fine.. no need to add another process on top of it!

Me? Since I cannot leave well enough alone, I’ve been fiddling with the two Jeeps I finished recently.
 

On the Jeep  I didn’t like the plastic engine compartment structural bars, they were too thick, especially when displayed next to the Jeepster which has ones I made from wire. So I replaced them.

On the Jeepster, under the hood, MPC didn’t put the bars in the kit, but had indents in the firewall for them. By the time I got a battery in and added the bars, they collided with the battery and master cylinder. That’s when I realized MPC had them in the wrong location. Removed them, drilled new firewall holes, and painted new bars. The battery was too large for this all to work, so I cut some depth out of a new one, made a new tray.. printed a new battery label. The engine bay should be much better now!

Then I decided to add a trailer hitch. It never ends!

Edited by Tom Geiger
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17 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Tom, your pickup cab looks fine.. no need to add another process on top of it!

Thanks! Too late. I already did. Besides working on my flathead for my 50 Ford I went ahead with the salt technique on the Willys cab. I added decals to the doors. I like the look. Anyone got a frame for this to trade?

Later-

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