Airwreck Posted June 19, 2021 Posted June 19, 2021 I am a huge fan of this look! Wow! Amazing color and stance!
Phildaupho Posted June 19, 2021 Posted June 19, 2021 I love this style of hot rod and you did it exactly right.
alan barton Posted June 20, 2021 Posted June 20, 2021 12 hours ago, Rocking Rodney Rat said: Yeah, I know, the colo(u)r choice was a trifle trendy...I promise I won't do it again any time soon. Thanks for the compliment, though! Hey Rodney, I have no trouble with trendy - I just happen to like my rods in traditional reds, yellows, blacks, you know the type. I think it is great that people are trying different hues these days, I just don't happen to be a fan of some of them. Your model proves just how good they can look! Cheers Alan
Claude Thibodeau Posted June 20, 2021 Posted June 20, 2021 Hi RRR! Very nice. The dark solid color suits this style of car very well. Bravo! I heard mixed comments about the Minwax clear... Some love it, others claim it is very thin, and prone to runs? And what about drying time? Your take? CT
Venom Posted June 21, 2021 Posted June 21, 2021 Well, I love green and I also love a simple and clean look. Very nicely done and very cool!
Kit Karson Posted June 21, 2021 Posted June 21, 2021 And, out of no where comes a super sharp deuce 2dr sedan! Wasn't sure this one would turn out so kool, RRR! Don't know anyone that could pie-cut the '32 hood to match the chopped top!! Outstanding, Brother!!! -KK
Bernard Kron Posted June 22, 2021 Posted June 22, 2021 Keeping it nice and nice and simple makes it simply nice... real nice!
Plowboy Posted June 22, 2021 Posted June 22, 2021 Such a clean, well done hot rod! I love the chop and the green!
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted June 22, 2021 Author Posted June 22, 2021 On 6/20/2021 at 4:43 PM, Claude Thibodeau said: Hi RRR! Very nice. The dark solid color suits this style of car very well. Bravo! I heard mixed comments about the Minwax clear... Some love it, others claim it is very thin, and prone to runs? And what about drying time? Your take? CT Thanks for the kind compliments Claude. The Minwax seems to work well, it's giving me the best shine I've seen on my work (not saying that much?). I can lay on ten coats of Tamiya clear and it never gets as shiny as Minwax. That's the positive. Yes, it is thin and can run, but will level out nicely. I will hold on to a part after clearing and then move the part around to make sure any heavy paint runs away and levels out. The trick to painting, is lay down a light coat, wait for about 7 to 10 minutes and lay on a heavy coat. It stays tacky for about 24 hours but dries very hard once it is. Cleared parts usually sit in the dehydrator for about 48 hours to make sure they're good and dry. The body of the sedan orange peeled because I put on the second coat too soon. The other thing I don't like about the Minwax is that it's very easy to lift after its on and dry. I tried masking over it to shoot flat black enamel for a cloth roof and the tape took the Minwax off (one reason I sanded of the cloth top on the sedan). Minwax is an enamel, I found that out when I painted some steering wheel spokes with Tamiya silver brushed on. Instant crazing. The Minwax does seem to sand well, I'm always very concerned about sanding through the clearcoat so I prevent that from happening by not doing it....? I hope this informative. What do you use/recommend as a clear top coat? I'm not married to this stuff, but I did buy a quart and seems it will last a few lifetimes.... -RRR
Dan Hay Posted June 22, 2021 Posted June 22, 2021 Man that is one right on Tudor! You nailed the proportions and look.
Claude Thibodeau Posted June 22, 2021 Posted June 22, 2021 5 hours ago, Rocking Rodney Rat said: Thanks for the kind compliments Claude. The Minwax seems to work well, it's giving me the best shine I've seen on my work (not saying that much?). I can lay on ten coats of Tamiya clear and it never gets as shiny as Minwax. That's the positive. Yes, it is thin and can run, but will level out nicely. I will hold on to a part after clearing and then move the part around to make sure any heavy paint runs away and levels out. The trick to painting, is lay down a light coat, wait for about 7 to 10 minutes and lay on a heavy coat. It stays tacky for about 24 hours but dries very hard once it is. Cleared parts usually sit in the dehydrator for about 48 hours to make sure they're good and dry. The body of the sedan orange peeled because I put on the second coat too soon. The other thing I don't like about the Minwax is that it's very easy to lift after its on and dry. I tried masking over it to shoot flat black enamel for a cloth roof and the tape took the Minwax off (one reason I sanded of the cloth top on the sedan). Minwax is an enamel, I found that out when I painted some steering wheel spokes with Tamiya silver brushed on. Instant crazing. The Minwax does seem to sand well, I'm always very concerned about sanding through the clearcoat so I prevent that from happening by not doing it....? I hope this informative. What do you use/recommend as a clear top coat? I'm not married to this stuff, but I did buy a quart and seems it will last a few lifetimes.... -RRR Hi RRR! Thanks you for your "recipe". I'm always interested in other builder's experiences, as I've learned a lot that way! My go-to clear was Testor's WEt Look 1 coat lacquer. Here in Canada, it's been discontinued, and I suspect it is on your side of the border too? I tried to stock on it as much as I could, but my stash won't last for years, alas, as I build about 10 projects per year. Therefore, I tried all kind of options. Since Testor's was part of the Rustoleum empire, I wondered if any one of their clear lacquers would happen to be of the same consistence, or thickness, if you will. My view is that said sirupy texture was key to it flowing so well, and resist vigourous rubbing once dried. As you may know, Testors also had "regular" clear lacquer (the blue label cans), but it is much thinner, and more hot... So much so that it would sometimes get settled bodywork to ultimately telegraph to the surface later. Cautious use is my take on it. Actually, the shiniest Rustoleum spray-can lacquer I found was the glossy "furniture" variety, sold along black furniture lacquer at big box stores. Good thickness, not prone to runs, but... REALLY HOT. So much that it got my test panels of Tamya's lacquer to MELT & RUN before it settled and dried. SO, here again, caution! I tried the new Revell lacquer clear in spray cans, found it fine, but a bit on the thin side, much like TS-13 from Tamya. I had to pile-on many coats, which of course caused some orange peel once cured, and in turn, required more color-sanding to get it smooth as I wanted. Back to square one, I guess? So, while I watch my WetLook clear reserve dwindle, I entertain using House of Kolor urethane 2-part Show clear on a Bonneville Streamliner I'm completing. I have much experience with this HOK clear, as I use it on 1/1 cars and rods I build for customers. But once fully dried, it is so hard that the vigorous sanding and rubbing required to fully "flash it" have me concerned with the fragile bodywork that my mash-up building style propose. I will experiment with various viscosity reduction, to see if I can attain that sweet spot of perfect flow and lesser polishing that Wet Look got me accustomed to. We'll see soon enough! Finally, I know there is a debate going on about recipe changes at Testor's regarding the Wet Look clear, dating back about 18 monts or so. I never had any adverse effect in my use, so to me, it was and is a "non-issue". You'll be the judge when I post an upcoming streamliner on this site, hopefully before the end of the summer. Regards, CT
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted June 24, 2021 Author Posted June 24, 2021 On 6/22/2021 at 2:07 PM, Claude Thibodeau said: Hi RRR! Thanks you for your "recipe". I'm always interested in other builder's experiences, as I've learned a lot that way! My go-to clear was Testor's WEt Look 1 coat lacquer. Here in Canada, it's been discontinued, and I suspect it is on your side of the border too? I tried to stock on it as much as I could, but my stash won't last for years, alas, as I build about 10 projects per year. Therefore, I tried all kind of options. Since Testor's was part of the Rustoleum empire, I wondered if any one of their clear lacquers would happen to be of the same consistence, or thickness, if you will. My view is that said sirupy texture was key to it flowing so well, and resist vigourous rubbing once dried. As you may know, Testors also had "regular" clear lacquer (the blue label cans), but it is much thinner, and more hot... So much so that it would sometimes get settled bodywork to ultimately telegraph to the surface later. Cautious use is my take on it. Actually, the shiniest Rustoleum spray-can lacquer I found was the glossy "furniture" variety, sold along black furniture lacquer at big box stores. Good thickness, not prone to runs, but... REALLY HOT. So much that it got my test panels of Tamya's lacquer to MELT & RUN before it settled and dried. SO, here again, caution! I tried the new Revell lacquer clear in spray cans, found it fine, but a bit on the thin side, much like TS-13 from Tamya. I had to pile-on many coats, which of course caused some orange peel once cured, and in turn, required more color-sanding to get it smooth as I wanted. Back to square one, I guess? So, while I watch my WetLook clear reserve dwindle, I entertain using House of Kolor urethane 2-part Show clear on a Bonneville Streamliner I'm completing. I have much experience with this HOK clear, as I use it on 1/1 cars and rods I build for customers. But once fully dried, it is so hard that the vigorous sanding and rubbing required to fully "flash it" have me concerned with the fragile bodywork that my mash-up building style propose. I will experiment with various viscosity reduction, to see if I can attain that sweet spot of perfect flow and lesser polishing that Wet Look got me accustomed to. We'll see soon enough! Finally, I know there is a debate going on about recipe changes at Testor's regarding the Wet Look clear, dating back about 18 monts or so. I never had any adverse effect in my use, so to me, it was and is a "non-issue". You'll be the judge when I post an upcoming streamliner on this site, hopefully before the end of the summer. Regards, CT Thanks, Claude. It seemed to me that the Testors "One Coat", "Extreme" (or whatever they were calling it before it was disco'd) was on the heavy side. I had problems with that series of paints bubbling up if it was applied a bit too heavy (a trend I have). I started decanting and spraying through the airbrush. I'm very interested to see what Revell comes up with for paints (not just clear). From what I understand it will be enamels. I really miss the Testors Metallizer colors. I'm getting a bit off topic here.... -RRR
Claude Thibodeau Posted June 24, 2021 Posted June 24, 2021 7 hours ago, Rocking Rodney Rat said: Thanks, Claude. It seemed to me that the Testors "One Coat", "Extreme" (or whatever they were calling it before it was disco'd) was on the heavy side. I had problems with that series of paints bubbling up if it was applied a bit too heavy (a trend I have). I started decanting and spraying through the airbrush. I'm very interested to see what Revell comes up with for paints (not just clear). From what I understand it will be enamels. I really miss the Testors Metallizer colors. I'm getting a bit off topic here.... -RRR Hi RRR! Well, I don't know about your age... but I'm 66, and as the years pile on, one constant is that whenever a product satisfies me... it usually gets discontinued or so much altered that it becomes useless to me. Go figure! One of the privilege of getting older, I guess? CT
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted June 25, 2021 Author Posted June 25, 2021 15 hours ago, Claude Thibodeau said: Hi RRR! Well, I don't know about your age... but I'm 66, and as the years pile on, one constant is that whenever a product satisfies me... it usually gets discontinued or so much altered that it becomes useless to me. Go figure! One of the privilege of getting older, I guess? CT I hear ya. I'm a year younger.... -RRR
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