Muncie

Good looking Satellite This is one that I'm going to have to watch! thanks Greg

Spoke wheels are appropriate for most of the AMT kits because they are based on trucks manufactured in the early 1970's - really just came down to fleet preference. Six spoke wheels are used for the heavier weight ratings and heavier duty vocational applications. You've probably noticed from the pictures that the spoke section of the wheel assembly is actually the hub with the wheel bearings and that the brake drum bolts to the inboard side of the hub. Back in the way back machine, disc wheels were also kind of the same thing with the drum mounted inside of the flange on the hub. In the late 70's, truck manufacturer's started offering optional "outboard mounted" drums - available only with disc wheels. The drum is mounted outboard of the flange on the hub. It pretty quickly became the popular wheel end system because the drum could be removed without touching the hub and bearings to change brake linings. Disc wheels now are limited to applications where they are absolutely required (can't think of one) or where the owner prefers them.

second those opinions - great guy to deal with and excellent parts more here on Ed's Drastic Plastic Fotki site - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/ use the email address in the first post to contact him.

kinda hated to dump an 18 minute video on you guys, but I couldn't figure out how to describe it either - I'm glad the video helped

wow! - lots of fuel system information everything from linkage parts and fittings to complete systems - great deference, thanks

arrrgh, Messed up and wrong link for the beadlock wheels - try this - http://dragrace.academy/beadlock-wheel-mounting-and-tire-selection/ with all this information I fell like I could change tires for John Force's crew... well, maybe not

that looks great - I enjoy seeing the Nascars that you've been buiding - obvioulsy you've done a lot of work here and this is not the Polar Lights kit. Please tell us more

good questions....I was also curious about beadlocks - I talked to a guy at a car show a couple of years ago who had beadlocks on his prostreet Camaro - he said he mounted the slicks in his living room - after watching this video, it is doable. more here - Prior to beadlock wheels in drag racing, the funny car and top fuel classes used an inner liner to secure the slick to the rim and prevent the wheel from turning in the tire. Goodyear even had a trick single valve - turn it one way to inflate the inner liner, turn it the other way to fill the tire more on current inner liner here -http://dragrace.academy/how-to-mount-a-liner-tire/

was working on a reply and I'm going the same direction as Bill - the clear coat was applied too heavy (especially for one coat) and softened the silver - then the metallic started to drift and went crazy. For clear, but colors as well - best to start out with a mist coat, very light so it can tack up a bit - the first coat doesn't even need to cover the paint underneath - then follow with wet coats (but not drowning) that will flow out as it dries. Most good paint jobs came after some experience - for me, luck can still be a big factor.

thanks Russ - good to have it clarified for the topic at hand - I've spent some time on Fords, too - good to know

correct, the size regulations for the interstates and designated highways regulate the length of the trailer and do not include the cab. There are still some roads off the national network where the state overall length rules for the combination still apply - but the state rules see limited enforcement so the national regulations basically apply there also... of course we're talking regulations here so it's more complicated, but that's the basics. Under the cab, there isn't much difference between a COE and a conventional - same engines, same chassis, same suspensions, same electrical, same brake system... different steering and shifter, longer wheelbase of course. Some of the higher horsepower engines, especially with later emissions engines, are not be available in a COE because available space under the cab isn't big enough to handle the cooling systems. Current demand for high horsepower and lack of space for an adequate cooling system basically put an end to the production of COE's about 5 years ago in class 8 (over 33,00 pounds) heavy duty trucks. COE's still have some applications in the smaller medium duty classes.

Bill, I like your schematics - that's usually more detail than I put in a model Let's add a couple more parts. Ford has the solenoid ("relay" in this diagram) for the starting system remotely mounted - usually on the fenderwell - The positive battery cable goes from the battery to the solenoid, then to the starter. Missing in this diagram is the cable from the other side of the solenoid to the starter. I'm also used to seeing a ballast resistor (or resistor wire) in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil with a bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil for starting with full 12 volts - Chevy guy so not sure where Ford puts the ballast resistor (maybe in the coil?) More internet image searches for the OP - Ford engine wiring schematic, ford starter wiring schematic, ford ignition wiring schematic... or the basic how to fix your Ford book available inexpensively at most used book stores - or - How to Wire Your Street Rod From Start to Finish by Jack Sweeden, at Speedway Motors about $12 which covers most electrical systems Hope this helps

I'm hoping Revell adds an extra set of wheels in the Foose FD100 and EldoRod kits. Those kits will have unique tires so the wheel choices that fit will be limited to what's in the box. Good for Revell and Chip because it makes the kit a two-in-one - either as a replica or something special for the builder. It would make the wheels and tires useful for other projects as well.

The Surface Transportation Assistance Act of 1982 changed the whole heavy trucking industry from cab-over to to conventional. It replaced state regulations that limited overall length with national requirements for the length of the trailer on interstate and designated highways. When things were limited by overall length, the cab-over equation was shorter cab equals more trailer, more trailer equals more revenue. When the DOT dropped the cab from the equation, the industry changed over to conventional cabs - most drivers preferred the conventionals.

The transmission color on a new truck will depend on several things but mostly it is how the trucks were assembled on the line... which depends on manufacturer, build location, and when it was built. If you can find some brochures on the internet with chassis pictures, that would be good reference The Cleveland Truck plant has always painted the chassis before the engine and transmission are installed - the transmission would be painted by the transmission manufacturer, which varied by manufacturer and transmission model. In the 70's, Freightliner installed the engine before chassis paint. The engine and radiator was masked off (not too neatly around the edges) but the transmission was painted chassis color. Black became the standard chassis color in the mid-80's but the chassis could be any solid color up until the mid-90's when the optional colors were discontinued. By the mid-90's, with new plants and production line changes, the chassis were painted before engine drop and the air lines were installed.

yep, Penney's had an automotive department - bought a set of 15x6 chrome rally wheels for $50 when they were closing it out in about 1970 -

ahhh, but it's a four door Bel Air hardtop... not the common mid-level sedan - fairly rare... probably somebody out there that is looking for one

now, if you had tried to do that... woulda been a lot of work...

The article on the Corvettes and the mystery engine is an amazing history. Funny how I hadn't seen the December issue until last week at the magazine rack and my copy arrived yesterday with the January issue - oh well, all here now. Vintage Racing Miniatures has a sheet of decals for the 614 Corvette that includes some of the markings and numbers that would work on the Mickey Thompson Corvettes. i didn't see the Mickey Thompson markings for the rear fender in the image on their web site, but that may be poor resolution on their web site. Slixx also has some number sheets that may work for some of the cars just 2 cents worth - I'm not aware of anything specific for the Mickey Thompson Corvettes

great reference pictures - seldom get to see the block like that outside of a car thank you for researching the date - it's good to have it defined, sorry I left it so fuzzy. If you are building late 60's, early 70's, most of the fuel racers left the iron block bare - didn't have to mess with hot tanking the block to remove the paint when it had to go back to the machine shop for repair work. Hot tanking damages the cam bearings so the unpainted block saved removing and installing new cam bearings - critical to minimize machine shop time and expense between races for most weekend warriors OK, back to the original paint question...

my favorite paint for cast aluminum was Krylon Dull Aluminum. It even dried to a cast like surface - Alas, went looking for some last week and couldn't find it in the stores... Not sure if their other metallic paints come close - Sorry, I know tha'ts no help - I'm starting a new search for a solution Something about the dates has me wondering - seems like the aluminum blocks didn't come out until the early 70's. Prior to that KB engines would have been Mopar iron blocks. trivia - the first 25 KB blocks were cast with the letters Chrysler above the oil pan rail - Mother Mopar said no no no and pointed out that the 426 was never installed in a Chrysler - 426 hemi's were only Dodge or Plymouth.

I've seen them elsewhere but I also order from Speed City Resin. He keeps an inventory on hand instead of casting on order - good parts and you get them in days. Speed City has both the 426 and 392 valve covers in your pictures with dual breathers. Might be a few other things that you want there as well. http://www.speedcityresin.com/PartsPageEngine.html

several resin casters repop the old 1/25 scale Johan 426 M/T finned valve covers with the logo. The Monogram McEwen rear engine dragster that was recently reissued (yeah!) has a pair of the large single valve cover breathers like the top photo - except with an EP - Ed Pink - logo.

yes, sounds too thick, not enough thinner - Lacquer shouldn't go bad with age if the can is kept closed tight. Not sure if Duplicolor is putting something else in the cans now days, but I've sprayed 30 year old Ditzler clear with no problem. you've inadvertently learned how to do custom spiderweb paint - The basic method for that is no thinner and very low pressure

All good tips - good information for building models even if they are not intended for a contest. I don't build for contests but have entered to participate and have fun - bringing home a trophy is a bonus.