hedotwo

We'd been having an unusually dry winter (for us anyway) and hadn't been able to take our snowmobiles out til we had a 12" snowfall a couple of weeks ago. But... the temps dropped like a rock that night and haven't recovered yet, so rather than riding in below zero temps we've been holding off. Hope is coming though. Looks like highs in the 20's by the end of the week so maybe we can finally get out of the house and ride.

This morning with my coffee .... We've only barely gotten above zero (daytime that is) a couple of times in the past couple of weeks <groan>....

Unfortunately I don't have an extra set. I was able to grab just what I needed for my Invicta. Good luck though!

Not really a trade, but I wanted to give a shout out to Tom Geiger for taking the time to make me some great scale license plates for two of my childhood family cars. Thanks Tom!

x2... Not sure putting enough pressure on the blade to make it conform is good for most seam or flash removal. But, I haven't tried it so I guess I'm no judge.

Not in my case anyway ?. Even though washer fluid is cheap, it works better than the others (various % alcohols, Wicked reducers, Tamiya x-20, Testors Universal, etc) I've tried with craft acrylics and I'd gladly pay more because it really does work better for me. Seeing as how I'm on SS, I'm not complaining that is is cheap though ?

I've never had any issues with plain old windshield washer fluid for craft acrylics. I use a small blow dryer after I lay each coat down and slowly build coats, only giving the last one or two a moderately wet coat. It dries nice and fast with the blow dryer.

My go to is the Trumpeter scriber but use others, including a good old backside #11 xacto. The Trumpeter is thinner than the Tamiya and unless I want to widen door gaps a bit I use the Trumpeter. I like to use the PE Tamiya saw blade too, as for me it's pretty easy to use if you go slow and it seems to remove most of what it cuts as well.

Welcome!

After reading these attached threads I may end up passing on the Caprice. The $100 price seemed really too high, but it's the only game in town (that I know of) for a downsized early Caprice and I have a special reason for wanting to do one. I'm not nuts on doing resin in the first place but would possibly take the job of doing this if it was maybe half the price. I guess I can just wait. Thanks for all the replies!

One kit I'm looking at from this seller is the 77 Caprice two door. Anyone have any comments on this one?

x2 ?

Nice builds Dave!

Depending on your budget, the H Paasche can't be beat and I believe you can still get it at Hobby Lobby either by itself or in the set. Plus, if you hurry you can still use your 40% coupon. I've read where HL is going to discontinue the coupon by 2/28. I have and use an Iwata Eclipse dual action that, in my opinion, sprays much nicer than the H (which I also have) but the downside is the learning curve to a DA. There are lots of factors in a good paint job,.. more than just the airbrush itself. Good luck!

Thanks for the input guys..

x2... just what I was thinking. If there was a discreet place to reinforce, that would be a great option.

Like where this is headed Les ?

Great one Tom!

Just searched and found this glass coat may be essentially Future floor polish

Funny you brought up S-02 Les, I actually bought a bottle on ebay a few days ago and it's on its' way. I just looked on Amazon for the intermediate Gauzy and see they have another Gauzy product called Glass Coat. I haven't searched the forum yet for info on this stuff.

I've now gone down the airbrushed Molotow road and don't see me returning to either Alclad or Spaz Stix anytime soon. Unthinned at around 15psi or so, it sprayed nicely. It will self level so you'll need to lay it on somewhat wet. I found that being patient letting it dry naturally (without forcing with heat) for a couple of days resulted in it being more durable than I was expecting. At least durable enough that if you've pre-fit your pieces ahead of time (which eliminates alot of extra handling) the shine will stay. To be safe, I have tight, thin cotton gloves that I use for final assembly of chromed pieces. So, downsides are durability and detail hiding coverage to get a very shiny finish. Works great for bumpers and other flatter surfaces, but I'll still use Spaz Stix spray for things that I don't want heavy coverage. Upsides are that it's easy to lay down and yields the best chrome-like finish I've found. None of this is news to many of you, but I had to share my experiences.

Anyone have any experience with Redline Restorations on ebay? They have listings for many resin trans kits and there are a couple I might be interested in. Photos look ok, but they're photos. Thanks

Thanks Dave! I'd be totally lost without this board....

All Riv's are beauties but my fave has always been the '66. Great build!

Made progress on my '67 Impala 4dr rear-to-front seat conversion. I used my styrene slurry to fill the rear seat speaker and then finished the seat back. I'm not going to bother modifying the lower seat cushion to a front seat look, as I'm happy to just have the correct pleating instead of the tuck/roll the Supernatural came with.