hedotwo

I've repaired a few A pillars and you're right about this! Thanks Bill

I guess when I posted I'd already knew the answer about the GM roof lines being shared, and that there may be differences between Johan and AMT/SMP/Revell for kits from 59 and 60. I probably should have asked specifically whether there might be differences between 59 and 60 GM big bodies. If the 59 and 60 are the same that would give me more options to look for junk bodies to be a donor. I hadn't really even considered the Revell Chevy kits at this point. I have a built 59 Revell Chev that I can compare as best I can when I receive the Olds. Thanks Tom

To my eye the C pillars on 2 door HT Bonneville's, Impala's, Invicta's, and Olds 88/98's from both 1959 and 1960 are the same? From pics on Google Image they sure seem to be, but was wondering if anyone here is sure. I have a Johan 60 Olds 2dr that I need to replace the C pillar and was hoping to swap in an AMT GM 59 or 60 junkyard replacement. I'm not even sure that would even work, but if not I'd just have to fab and replace the one I need. Thank you

Great build Mario! Love, love the color choice!

Welcome Ron! Your story is certainly similar to most of us here. I'm "only" 68 but share your concern about the physical part of building models (eyes and dexterity), but have learned to adjust my expectations of my finished product and found that I'm just as happy building a nice curbside than I was years ago spending days detailing interiors and engines. A good paint job and foiling can go a long way to making you proud

Great job!

Welcome Jordan! Good for you to introduce your grandson to the hobby. I have six grandsons (all over 18 now) and tried to interest each of them to modeling at one time or another and only one continued on. It's not easy to get them going with a hobby that requires patience and is somewhat slow. Too many easy distractions today for them. Good luck and hope to see some of your builds.

Congrats, beautiful job! So clean and crisply done!

Amazingly good Rog!

Nice job!

It really all just boils down to how deep the scratch is. Shallow scratches are relatively easy with different progressive polishes (Novus, Tamiya), while deeper scratches require good old wetsanding and patience with paper up to 12000, then finish with polish. Be aware that scratches that are pretty deep will require a bunch of sanding and may leave a depression in the glass unless you do the entire surface.

Welcome Michael!

Great job Michelle!

It's probably been mentioned here before, but if you're like me and use Flex-I-File sanding sticks (or other brands sponge-based sticks) the ends can get worn before the remainder of the sticks. I found that the Stanley Fatmax snips work the best to cutoff just what's worn and leave a nice sharp edge. Not saying Stanley is the only brand that will work, but I have other "cheapie" snips and they don't leave a sharp edge. I've never had luck with any scissors that I have around here either. The example I show isn't really worn too much but you get the idea ?

I've used washer fluid exclusively with craft acrylics for a long time and have never had any issues with it causing problems... Folk Art, Ceramcoat, Americana, Anita's, etc. I like Folk Art best (I know Plaid makes off brands too) but all of them work just fine. Being so thin to start with causes the first couple of coats to bead up just a bit, but as you add coats it all blends together anyway. I dry each coat quickly with a mini hair dryer. The big downsides to craft paint is that they're really delicate until you clear them and they don't take to wet sanding (or dry for that matter unless you really build up many coats). Upsides are no odor, they spray nice if you get them thinned correctly, there are tons of colors and if you can't find what you want out of the bottle you can easily mix up your own. Oh, and they're cheap for those that pay attention to that. I still prefer shooting MCW or Scalefinishes, but depending on the build I don't have a problem at all with craft paints.

Been there and done that. It's all for a good cause! The end result will make you forget all about it?

Great idea and execution Pat!

Great detailing!

For me there's a big difference in nozzles between Testors and Tamiya. The spray pattern with Tamiya in my opinion is much finer and gentler. I don't use rattle cans too much, but generally use Tamiya when I can. I've used Testors Wet Look Clear and it never really gave any bad results. Just seems to come out heavier.

The Paasche H is a workhorse. Easy to clean, sprays good. Plus, it's a single action which may or may not be better to start with.

Great build! Love the Monte's! ?

Gorgeous! Gotta love the color combo too!

Welcome Sean, and I don't think the pic bad at all ?

Might work for a display piece if you could find a scale girl figure with a similar dress to go along with it.

x2 for MCW and Scalefinishes. Lay down great, large selection of accurate colors, and are very durable.