mustang1989

Moving on to my next favorite part of auto building....the interior. If there's one thing I cannot STAND it's molded in foot pedals. They just look so dang fake!! The fix......is to remove the toe board on the drivers side. What'll happen is that I'll use either PE foot pedals or pedals from another kit and use needles as the swing levers and mount them on the back side of the dash. The following photos show this process when I built my Dyno Don Ford Maverick. The results speak for themselves....... In the case of my Maverick, I used foot pedals from an AMT Mustang kit that I had And cut the levers off leaving the pedals and using the needles pictured above for the levers Mounted to the rear of the dash in the following shot: The turn out is just SO much better of a result as can be seen on my 1970 Maverick dash:

Thanks for the comments fellas. Emre, I prime the intake and exhaust manifolds black and then come back over both with a very light coat of Aluminum Alclad. No work gets done to the intake after this treatment but the exhaust manifolds get one more step. I apply a light dry brushing of ground up black pastel over them to add some depth and extra weathering.

So wait.......You applied embossing powder and then shot enamel green over it to get this look? Dumb it down to the lowest level for me because I'm going to try this. I've used flocking material in the past and don't like it because once the model is turned upside down at all, that stuff goes like......everywhere. It's for that reason that I stopped using flocking material all together and have been searching for a better method of modeling carpet. I think I may have just found it here. Looking forward to your reply Steven.

Gonna tune into this one.

WHOA HO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO YESSSSSS!!! That's how it's done right there!!!

This is looking swell JR! REALLY swell. Heck....the BMF job ALONE is all that!!

Thanks for the comments and the "likes" fellas. I managed to get the engine completed. After toying around with the air filter element some, I decided to go with a upc bar code printed up and cut to fit.

I do like your style Greg. Beautiful paint and BMF work along with an excellent stance. Great wheel & tire choice as well.

You're starting off with one cool color, that's for sure! Will be watching.......

Thanks for the interest fellas. It's been a while since I've updated anything in this thread so .....with that.....let's get started up again. I've got the carburetor painted and the details picked out with a light wash, got the fuel lines added, installed the starter with the postive battery cable connected, modified drive belt without the air pump and painted up and installed the alternator bracket. So far I'm decently pleased with these results:

Oh man.......this is all some serious attention to detail Steven. I've followed your work for a number of years and this stuff just never gets old. You're among the greats in my book bud.

Superb work on the grill and the body looks great in that color Steve.

It's been a whilie since I've clocked in over here but I'm glad I did after seeing this one. Looking forward to continued progress Sonny. Excellent work on this car so far!!

That's some mighty fine cut outs you did on this one JC. Looking forward to more buddy.

Such a good turn out on this one and can't believe I missed it here Sam. The ingenuity behind this build is just astounding. Very well put together, detailed and painted.

This one turned out very sweet Keith! I remember when I was a kid, these things were EVERYWHERE. Nowadays they are a true rarity to see and just as much so in the scale world. Thanks for sharing this and taking us down a memory lane.

Overall, this build turned out very, very well. The color suits this car well and it looks like you got the stance down pat. You've done a great job with the detailing of the engine bay and interior too. The only real hang up I'm seeing is something that you are well aware of with the rear valance which is tough to get flush on the OOB body let alone a resin one. One thing is for sure, you've definitely got an original going with this one in wagon form and one that'll be a compliment to any display case.

That's the way I was looking at it too Dave.

I'm right there with you brother! For sure!!

I can definitely see a year and a half's worth of work put into this one. Despite your set backs, it looks like you pulled this one off very well. Stance is good, engine bay looks killer and the paint / finish work definitely looks like it's got some good time put into it. Great turn out Brian.

Now how cool is THIS??!! I’ll be watching in on this one Brian. I’ve got my instruction sheet out and will shoot you some pictures of it and explain in further detail what I did along the way to drop the car down to a more aggressive stance. I had to help our son out with his taxes and cook dinner tonight so I’m bushed after a long Monday. It’s only a matter of a very short time til I have the info to you.

You're right Brian. It requires a few steps to lower it because of the complexity of the suspension but the results are worth it. I'll put something together for you tomorrow bud.

Sorry to hear about the events that unfolded when you put the body onto the chassis. I'm getting to the point (and some will call this ridiculous but it removes alot of frustration for me) where I buy two of every new auto model I build just so I can 1.) check and correct any stance and wheel/ tire position issues and 2.) build a complete mock up and find all of the pitfalls of the build during the assembly process......particularly the body over chassis step. This looks VERY good despite the issues that you're having JR. BTW.......have I told you that your BMF work is some of the best I've ever seen lately? You sir.....are tha man.

The more I think about it the more I want to delete the air pump "option" on this one. To come up with all of the plumbing and get the air pump to look right is gonna be a LOT of work and I can make up for the loss of that pump with some of my own detailing that'll look way better than a half fast job that is OOB on this engine.

I started the engine painting process by black basing everything. For me it's easier to go dark to lighter shades than it is light to darker shades. Plus there's some shadowing effects that can be carried out on the engine block and heads this way and it also makes a good base for the aluminum and steel colored parts to bring out more realism in the metal effects.